Need to Finish Mydual battery system

[latinoguy]

Guys,
I have the aux battery mounted, have the 9001e switch and pretty much every thing else but the cables and connectors and need your help. I am copying Boston Mangler's manual dual battery system and would like to get this done by next weekend before I head off to Baja on July 9th for a week.

I have measure the lengths according to the marine switch locations going to the battery, and everything else, but I have to confirm the following:

As far as the battery grounds go, I would like to mimic the stock locations as much as possible.

Option 1.
I can take the aux battery cable negative and run it down to the motor mount and do the same with starting battery (anything to keep an eye out as far as the mounts go?). What connector sizes would be good here?

Option 2
Take the starting battery ground cable and run it over to the passenger side battery and use that ground circuit.What connector sizes would be good here?

Alternator connection
Anything to be concerned about here as far as the connection to the alternator goes? connector size etc.

Battery Cable size
Instead of 2 AWG, Can I run a size 1/0 instead? I ask because there is a gentleman here on the forum who is quoting me a cable kit, but says if I want 2 AWG he needs to order it, while 1/0 he has in stock.


Distribution Buss to the Fusible Link (as mentioned on BM's schematic.)
What distribution buss to the fusible link connection(s) do I need to keep in mind here? This one I am in the dark and need some good advice.

Dave (SOCALFJ) I remember you saying you did a similar set up. Perhaps you can help me out and give me some feedback and answer some of my questions. Your help greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.
James

PS I have a 12v Edgestar fridge installed in my truck and ready to go for the trip.

 

[gon2srf]

Guys,
I have the aux battery mounted, have the 9001e switch and pretty much every thing else but the cables and connectors and need your help. I am copying Boston Mangler's manual dual battery system and would like to get this done by next weekend before I head off to Baja on July 9th for a week.

I have measure the lengths according to the marine switch locations going to the battery, and everything else, but I have to confirm the following:

As far as the battery grounds go, I would like to mimic the stock locations as much as possible.

Option 1.
I can take the aux battery cable negative and run it down to the motor mount and do the same with starting battery (anything to keep an eye out as far as the mounts go?). What connector sizes would be good here?

That is an 8mm bolt and you should have no problem doing that. The connector you need depends on the cable size you choose. I would recommend a 5/16 (8mm) lug for 2GA cable.

Option 2
Take the starting battery ground cable and run it over to the passenger side battery and use that ground circuit.What connector sizes would be good here?

Also 5/16 X GA of your choice.

Alternator connection
Anything to be concerned about here as far as the connection to the alternator goes? connector size etc.

Battery Cable size
Instead of 2 AWG, Can I run a size 1/0 instead? I ask because there is a gentleman here on the forum who is quoting me a cable kit, but says if I want 2 AWG he needs to order it, while 1/0 he has in stock.

Yes they make lugs that are sized 5/16 for 1 ga cable. The bigger the cable the less the resistance and heat build up but it's usually more expensive, harder to route and you will need special crimps or you can use solder slugs for the connections.


Distribution Buss to the Fusible Link (as mentioned on BM's schematic.)
What distribution buss to the fusible link connection(s) do I need to keep in mind here? This one I am in the dark and need some good advice.

Fusible links are just old school sacrificial cable that burns up in order to save the greater good. You can use an in line bladed fuse with the correct fuse for the load. I have a

Dave (SOCALFJ) I remember you saying you did a similar set up. Perhaps you can help me out and give me some feedback and answer some of my questions. Your help greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.
James

PS I have a 12v Edgestar fridge installed in my truck and ready to go for the trip.

CM - Circular Mil Area

CM=(K x I x L) / E
CM = Circular Area of Conductors
K = 10.75 (Constant representing the mil-foot resistance of copper)
I = Current (amps)
L = Length (feet)
E = Voltage drop (in volts) (.36 is accepted marine practice for 12V)

(10.75) (150) (20) divided by .36 = 89583 circular mil area

 

[latinoguy]

Thanks Scott. This really helps.

So a 1/0 Cable is thicker than 2 Awg cable? not clear on this one. It would seen like it is.

 

[gon2srf]

Thanks Scott. This really helps.

So a 1/0 Cable is thicker than 2 Awg cable? not clear on this one. It would seen like it is.

Yup 000, 00, 0 , 1/0, 2 ga and so on. Everything bigger than 2 ga aka awg is measured in aughts. Bigger numbers equal smaller gauge. The smaller stuff you see under your dash is usually 12/14/16 and maybe 18 ga. Every 6 gauges down (smaller number bigger diameter) equal double the diameter. So a 2 gauge wire/cable is twice the size of an 8 gauge wire.

Also remember that when running longer lengths the further the distance you're running the cable/wire the larger you want to go up in size because off voltage drop off and resistance ( which causes heat which in turn causes fire).

Below is a link to Powerstream.com This website has an awesome calculator at the bottom. Choose 12 VDC (standard car battery) for work on a vehicle and go from there. You can adjust cable gauge, cable length and choose the load you think the cable will be handling. Most electronics list the amp output on the product label. Look for voltage drop off to increase the smaller the gauge you chose, this is due to resistance in the smaller diameter cable/wire. Inversely

American Wire Gauge table and AWG Electrical Current Load Limits with skin depth frequencies