Need Help. 97 1FZ, slight top end knock, no codes even when I disconnect O2 sensors.
- Thread starter Jaysjammin
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #22
Sorry, got lost in a train of thought because I was worried about rod bearings. I'll post a video when I have time.
With no CEL, I'm worried I can't trust the instrumentation. Aside from HG, no real maintenance history.
Valid points that I absolutely agree with, I bought it as a project and I have a daily and another project I "finished" so I got it home and tore it apart. I've spent more money on it than what I bought it for and I fully expected that.
The why:
The truck was in rough shape when I bought it. Original owner 97-07 had head gasket failure, in 07 the mechanic bought it from them. In 2011, it became an off-road only rig. I gave it a decent once over, checked frame, coolant, oil, transmission, locker engagement, modifications and damage. Clean CarFax, stayed in Charlotte its entire life, no accidents. Dent in rocker panel, faded paint, A/C didn't work, front seats needed repair, surface rust and mud underneath and it had a 3 inch body lift.
Things I found doing initial tune up: there was a twig in one of the vacuum modulator lines because the nipple on the modulator had broken off, there was a red pipe from an aerosol can that was JB welded into the top pipe on the radiator because that nipple broke, AC didn't kick on and it was missing 8/24 lug nuts. Given that, I don't think there's been any maintenance aside from oil changes for the last decade.
So the plan was to just go through the whole thing. Radiator was getting replaced so I might as well overhaul the cooling system, thermostat, control valve, clamps and hoses. I don't like how body lifts drive, especially a 3 inch; in order to remove that, I had to cut off the exhaust. With no radiator and no exhaust, I could just sit in the engine bay and work. Radiator is out so I might as well do the oil pump seal and front main, manifold is off so I took apart the oil cooler and added valve, gaskets and O-rings, oil pressure sensor and harness. Did the valve cover gaskets, seals, plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, gasket and O-ring, replaced a dozen little vacuum lines. Air filter, rubber intake hose, TB hoses and gasket. Fuel filter, pump, gas cap.
Unrelated: sound deadening, insulation and speakers/Bluetooth. Wire wheeled and painted/primered everything underneath, replaced rear control arms, stabilizer linkages, OME lift, transfer case cross member, Slee skids, Slee stabilizer drop. List goes on.
Beautifully said.Regarding the knock I'm at belts, exhaust, PS, valves. Before valves, I'll likely remove the intake manifold so I can replace a few vacuum lines I couldn't reach and replace the intake gaskets in case there's an air leak causing the engine to run lean.
I'm all for not having a check engine light staring at me but if it's running lean or incorrectly, I want all of the codes that I can get.
I'll post a video at some point, "knock" is a very generic word for a long list of sounds.
I am pretty sure we are experiencing the same problem. My "knock" is coming from around injectors 3/4 and gets louder with RPM's. I've tested without belts, still have a noise. Replaced everything from the valve cover seal up, still have a noise. I have no idea what it is or could be however I am about to change all the injectors and will do some digging while I'm in that area for possible culprits.
- Thread starter
- #24
I haven't had a chance to check anything yet so let me know how that goes.
Will do probably start tomorrow, I'll report back
Well got the new injectors in, for the most part. Only bad thing I could find was these injector wires going to #3injector. I would assume this would cause it to short and no telling how long its been this way. But ill let you know tomorrow if there's still a tick/knock when I get it back together.
Well tick/knock is still there although it does sound a little quieter. But it does run a lot better after new injectors and fuel filter were changed.
- Thread starter
- #28
That is better than nothing I suppose. What injectors did you go with?
I went with these from Cruiser Parts
Fuel Injector Upgrade Kit 4 Hole Bosch Modern type For 93-97 [23209-74080-Upgrade] - $218.90 : CruiserParts, The best place for Land Cruiser Parts!
CruiserParts Fuel Injector Upgrade Kit 4 Hole Bosch Modern type For 93-97 [23209-74080-Upgrade] - Toyota Land Cruiser 4.5L (6) Bosch 4 hole Fuel Injector UPGRADE 1FZFE 6 CUSTOM Genuine Bosch Fuel Injectors Re-manufactured and Flow Matched These are NOT OEMs Superior Bosch 4 hole fuel injectors 6...
shop.cruiserparts.net