Need advice on replacing brakes

[Tools R Us]

The warranty only covers the pads, not the rotors or other hardware. They nail you because the harder than stock pads eat rotors and then when you go in for your "free pads" you get to buy several hundred dollars worth of rotors. Surprise!!!

Charlie

What you are saying is that Midas pads are harder on the rotors than OEM, not that all after-market pads are, correct?

 

[informationjunky]

What you are saying is that Midas pads are harder on the rotors than OEM, not that all after-market pads are, correct?

That is what I was refering too, In My Humble Opinion (and experiance on other toyotas but not a Land Cruiser) after market pads that I tried warped the rotors and had bad brake fade (I've been told its due to the materials coeficient of friction decreasing drastically when it gets heated up past a certain point - true?? I don't know but it sounds logical) under hard use.
And I recommended OEM because I have never warped rotors using them - disclosure - I have never used aftermarket pads on my Cruisers.

 

[C6H12O6]

I must be really strong. I just pushed the caliper back in by hand. As to removing fluid, it was so low with the worn pads, nothing spilled out. New pads just put it back up to the max mark. I should have flushed with new fluid at the same time, but that will be a project when I do the fronts this winter.

I'd have to disagree with the rears being a pain. I spent more time and effort cleaning brake dust off the little clips than I did actually wrenching on the brakes. Piece of cake. The rotors were slightly grooved and could probably have been replaced, but were above spec so I left them alone. Just do a good job bedding the new pads and you'll be fine not turning the rotors. Leave them alone or replace them with new OEM rotors.

 

[Tools R Us]

That is what I was refering too, In My Humble Opinion (and experiance on other toyotas but not a Land Cruiser) after market pads that I tried warped the rotors and had bad brake fade (I've been told its due to the materials coeficient of friction decreasing drastically when it gets heated up past a certain point - true?? I don't know but it sounds logical) under hard use.
And I recommended OEM because I have never warped rotors using them - disclosure - I have never used aftermarket pads on my Cruisers.

I always had good luck with Toyota pads, back in the good old days they came with all new hardware in a nice pack, good to go. Have installed many sets on customers and my cars. When I got my 80 it had horrible brake pulsation, the first "mod" to the truck was a brake inspection, the original fronts were about 80% worn at 34K miles, followed by a good smokey brake bedding, about 95% of the pulsation went away so I knew the rotors were good.

Brakes were the first thing I researched here, read all the horror stories about pads only lasting 15-20K miles, "warped" rotors, replacing rotors with every brake job, I didn't want to participate in any of this, so I looked into after-market pads.

There are many types of after-market pads, from cheap organic to exotics like ceramics. The selection of the right pad for your needs and driving style requires some research. My "needs" included, easy on the rotors, easy to clean brake dust (lazy), longer life (lazy), resisting brake pulsation and good performance. Kevlar looked to fit my need the best, EBC Green Stuff pads clinched the deal with their abrasive coating on the face of the pad that automatically burnishes the rotor in the first few miles of driving. With 15K miles on them they are working well, no pulsation, the rotors look great and good wear, at $65 a set they are not cheap, but I am happy with them!