need a toyota guru

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Speedway Motors has them for $33 here. Summit Racing or Jegs also carries them and you can probably find them in any respectable hotrod or racing equipment store. Just look for the knob style like I have in the link - they're all the same and brand name doesn't matter much with a simple part like this.

You might be able to get a plug, but I don't know where. I think the plug threads are 10mm - 1.0. Or you can forget about messing with the "T" and try to find a 90 degree brake line adapter from the same location on another toyota truck, like the one on the left in the pic below
reardisc10.jpg


Another option, if you can flare a brake line:
- cut the original Toyota ends off at the "T"
- slide new 3/16" SAE sized nuts over the bare ends
- flare the line and use a male-male adapter like I had to do in the pic below (vertical part next to the brake booster) to adapt the proportioning valve to the stock lines (but do this at the "T" in the pass. wheel well)
100_3881.jpg

got the wilwood valve coming for $42, local part store was able to find it. the lines are 10mm, but they have some plugs their sending me too. everything should be here by friday. the only thing I dont understand is how I can't get the air out of the system. we can bench bleed the master cylinder , throw it on, and then we will get one good shot out of the wheel cylinders and then nothing and the pedal goes to the floor, if we bench bleed it , put it on and put plugs in it, the pedal is solid, if we plug off one line leaving only the driver front, we got pedal. I thinking air is trapped and running in a continious circle. I think this setup will eliminate all problems.3 different mechanics came to the shop fri and sat. and took a shot at if for a couple of hours each, all three walked away scratching thier heads and saying "this makes absolutly not sense.
 
got the wilwood valve coming for $42, local part store was able to find it. the lines are 10mm, but they have some plugs their sending me too. everything should be here by friday. the only thing I dont understand is how I can't get the air out of the system. we can bench bleed the master cylinder , throw it on, and then we will get one good shot out of the wheel cylinders and then nothing and the pedal goes to the floor, if we bench bleed it , put it on and put plugs in it, the pedal is solid, if we plug off one line leaving only the driver front, we got pedal. I thinking air is trapped and running in a continious circle. I think this setup will eliminate all problems.3 different mechanics came to the shop fri and sat. and took a shot at if for a couple of hours each, all three walked away scratching thier heads and saying "this makes absolutly not sense.
Are you forgetting to bleed the Load Sensing Proportioning and Bypass Valve (LSP & BV)? It is the high point in the rear brake system and needs to be done after bleeding the rear brakes. The FSM has it as the final step in bleeding the brakes.
 
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