Need a few things for my new 60

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Rugy

Rugy

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Nov 21, 2010
Threads
14
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389
Location
North Vancouver, BC
Brought my 87 60 across the border on Monday from California. Here we are at Mogfest.

DSC04875.webp


Now that he has a new home here in Canada I need some advice.
Its a California car and want to provide rust protection.
Steam clean the underside and then undercoating or por 15 ?
Used to undercoat all of my vehicles but have heard that's not the way to go.
Which is better or pros and cons and is there a reputable shop that can do this ?
Want to get an immobilizer and possibly an alarm. Good shop recommendations ?
Horn is really wimpy, need something that will get heard.
Thanks
 
Undercoat is somewhat evil.....;) Clean paint and wax oil spray inside and outside of frame including all interior panels nooks and crannys.. There are special tools for this job that get into blind areas and mist..

Do this on a yearly or every two years and your truck should hold up fine..


Nice clean truck by the way.. One of our club members brought one up last year, frame is sooooo clean..

Rob:beer:
 
id por it ,then your call on the finish paint is cleaner. the sprinkler under your truck trick is a good start that you can do yourself. you have been useing ateb for the harder stuff, why not use them ,they can be anil in getting in there for a deep job.
 
Nice truck Mike! I POR'd my frame but without taking the body off, one can't get everywhere, so I have areas that are not protected for sure. Then gobs of fluid-film into every frame hole I could find, except the front, it was nicely coated in oil from my crankcase breather venting onto the front driveshaft ;).

That fluid film is great stuff, especially inside windshield frames, fenders, etc. Just don't put it on anything that you plan to touch as it will come off on you for sure!
 
like others said, no undercoating.

painting is nice but you will likely not get the areas that hold moisture anyway.

for true rust protection, clean and soak it in oil or wax. thats how mercedes does it anyway. :D
 
there are lots of companys who make a waxy film spray.
I personally love honey-goo.
I have used other products inside my panels made by proform.
POR anything that is rusting and you should be good.
Top coat it with something if its going to get sunlight, por doesn't last in sunlight.
I owuld put a waxy film over it after.
 
fluid film from wurth is excellent
we use that here and have the gun with all the hose extensions and tips to apply it properly
 
The truck has no rust and was stored in the PO shop for most of it's life.
Want to keep it rust free. Might get the hood wrapped in a clear car wrap.
Thanks for all of the suggestions.

Here is another picture from Mogfest.
DSC04865.webp
 
As others have mentioned, I agree with and would stay away from applying undercoating, instead applying a penetrating rust inhibitor liberally. After letting fluid film creep for a few days I have sprayed over top with various rust prevention products that dry to a waxy film (Pro Form, 3M etc). Dinitrol makes a Vehicle Cavity Protection product that leaves a waxy residue (never used it). Years ago I managed to get some rattle cans of Krown and that seemed to work very well at penetrating and creeping like Fluid Film, but does not leave a thick waxy film, so it is a yearly apply product in high contact/wear areas (like fluid film). Waxoyl is another brand that has been around for years but not much presence on the west coast. Net search will keep you reading for a while on options/products available and various opinions/ideas. A good applicator with all the hoses and wands helps considerably.

The ones that leave a waxy film all use a carrier that evaporates, leaving the product behind to protect. While mixed with the carrier is it supposed to creep into nooks and crannies. Probably works fine and doing the fluid film 1st is simply added time and expense. On my Cdn M101 trailer I've put just a dap of fluid film on surface rust spot areas on vertical surfaces and walked away....noticing days later a large circle around the point of application; The stuff creeps well.

You can make your own rust proofing solution, and there are recipes on line. Many say find and use anhydrous lanolin, mixed with an evaporative carrier: Lanolin is known as wool wax (what is in Fluid Film).

hth's
gb
 
Have used LPS spray as well. Seemed okay and they have a few products from leaving a thin film to thick coating. http://www.lpslabs.com/product-details/612

Boeshield is another: http://boeshield.com/

Steve mentioned Wurth...heard lots of good about their rust proofing products but have never used them.

Project for one day: row of steel pieces from the same strip, drilled and hung on a horizontal rail in the weather for a year after coating one piece each with an individual product. Record results.

gb
 
Thanks for all of the great suggestions and informative info.
Getting the truck inspected for provincial approval. Then insurance for the LC.
Next job is rust proofing.
 
Looks like a nice 60. curious how the inspections go. I was under the impression that they weren't keen on import of modified vehicles like that one being SOA?
For the rustproofing. Any bare, surface rusted, or chipped areas I'd wire brush, prep and paint. Even if it looks ok I'd repaint the frame in the back to try to prevent the typical rust. I also used a internal frame coating product from eastwoods on my 60. Seemed to work but not sure how well it holds up long term. Once it is all coated with decent quality paint then use the rust inhibitor wax oil sprays everyones mentioned. And don't drive it in the winter.
 
SOA = Spring over axle (i.e., sprung over)
thanks Rugby for your construction input
 
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