My Old 8274 Rebuild
- Thread starter gcrump01
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- Thread starter
- #2
Please make any comments or suggestions - I'm new at this so things that are obvious to you experts might not be so obvious to me.
I managed to get the brake off with a puller, at least part of it. This is where I'm stuck.
Any Suggestions??
I managed to get the brake off with a puller, at least part of it. This is where I'm stuck.
Any Suggestions??
- Thread starter
- #3
Ok, got it. 3 jaw puller. Hit with hammer 3 times, tighten, repeat, repeat, etc.
Question - lock plate is obviously out. How do I remove the shaft that the brake was on? Saw a video where I guy just popped it out with a screwdriver. I don't see that happening with mine. Can I drive it out from the back side? 2nd pic below???
Question - lock plate is obviously out. How do I remove the shaft that the brake was on? Saw a video where I guy just popped it out with a screwdriver. I don't see that happening with mine. Can I drive it out from the back side? 2nd pic below???
As I recall, the only thing holding that shaft in (with the lock plate removed) is the seal that you see from the outside. If there is any play in the shaft, I believe you can just bump the seal out by pushing the shaft in and then quickly tugging on it against that seal (and repeat a few times). You'll realize what's going on as soon as that seal starts to move.
I assume you're going to replace the seal, so you could also just remove the seal destructively. Just be careful not to damage anything but the seal. It's a pretty narrow seal.
There is probably a way to rig a puller on the end of that shaft, or pry from the inside, but I tend to shy away from putting pressure on a cast aluminum case. These cases are pretty thin.
I assume you're going to replace the seal, so you could also just remove the seal destructively. Just be careful not to damage anything but the seal. It's a pretty narrow seal.
There is probably a way to rig a puller on the end of that shaft, or pry from the inside, but I tend to shy away from putting pressure on a cast aluminum case. These cases are pretty thin.
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- Thread starter
- #5
I did get it to move a little. Far enough that I can see the groove in the shaft where the lock plate would sit plus about another 1/8 inch. Can't be much more holding it. I'll work on it tomorrow after church with fresh patience. Time to take care of the Valentines Day responsibilities & keep her majesty happy.
Thanks for your input - I'm sure I'll need more help as I move along.
Thanks for your input - I'm sure I'll need more help as I move along.
- Thread starter
- #6
Ok, brake shaft is out. Ended up putting the outer plate for the brake back on & the C-clip so that I had something to pull from.
Couple of questions....
1st - does the needle bearing come out easily? Drive it out from the inside I would assume?
And 2nd - I've read that the top half of the case is not designed to come apart. So I have to leave this top gear in place, right?
Couple of questions....
1st - does the needle bearing come out easily? Drive it out from the inside I would assume?
And 2nd - I've read that the top half of the case is not designed to come apart. So I have to leave this top gear in place, right?
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- Jul 21, 2013
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You can remove the gear in the top housing if you drive the pin through, but it is usually unnecessary to remove it as long as it spins freely.
- Thread starter
- #8
Everything bead blasted & cleaned up. Looks better already. Brake service kit & lower housing service kit should be in early next week. It will be a lot more fun to put all the new/clean parts back together. I'll get some paint on it soon.
- Thread starter
- #10
With some new parts from Warn I'm starting to reassemble this thing.
Question - since the brake rebuild kit came with a new center piece and larger spring, I assume they have to be used together. I can't use the old center piece with the new spring, right?
1st pic - old parts on left, new on right.
And a few more with some parts in place.
Question - since the brake rebuild kit came with a new center piece and larger spring, I assume they have to be used together. I can't use the old center piece with the new spring, right?
1st pic - old parts on left, new on right.
And a few more with some parts in place.
- Thread starter
- #11
And one more thing.
The rebuild kit came with 2 snap rings. The black one is a little larger than the gold one. Also, the instructions mention putting the spacers under the snap ring. The spacers are not big enough to fit on the shaft. At least not without some force. Thoughts??
The rebuild kit came with 2 snap rings. The black one is a little larger than the gold one. Also, the instructions mention putting the spacers under the snap ring. The spacers are not big enough to fit on the shaft. At least not without some force. Thoughts??
- Thread starter
- #12
Any thoughts on the 3 rings above and the 2 snap rings? I don't want to put this together but once. The larger black snap ring seems to fit better. Any chance there are variations in the shafts over the years?
Call Warn.
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- Jul 21, 2013
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Doesn't look like your needle bearing is pressed in far enough.