My Dizzy

[spotcruiser]

With a new coil do I still have to use the ignitor?

If you have the ignitor and it is hooked up, you have the semi-transistorized ignition. That would be correct for a '76, unless modified. It can be reconnected to run without the ignitor, if need be.

You may have an ignitor problem, but if it ran fine before you replaced the points, cap, and rotor, I'd say the ignitor is OK. I'd look for a problem related to the new parts or their installation.

 

[Landpimp]

he has a non US dizzy, so its not semi-transitorized and no need for the ignitor.

If you have the ignitor and it is hooked up, you have the semi-transistorized ignition. That would be correct for a '76, unless modified. It can be reconnected to run without the ignitor, if need be.

You may have an ignitor problem, but if it ran fine before you replaced the points, cap, and rotor, I'd say the ignitor is OK. I'd look for a problem related to the new parts or their installation.

 

[spotcruiser]

he has a non US dizzy, so its not semi-transitorized and no need for the ignitor.

No, John. The '76 and '77 ignition systems were semi-transistorized. They use a regular distributor and points to control the firing of the ignitor. In '78, the system changed to fully electronic, with the mag pick-up in the distributor.

I have a non-US (actually early US) distributor with an ignitor (stock) in my '76 right now. I swapped to the early distributor to get rid of the stock distributor with vacuum retard (CA smog control). The beauty of the semi-transistorized ignition is that the points last much longer (carry only control current) and can be reconnected as a points-only ignition in a pinch if the ignitor dies.

Todd Bull.

 

[warhorse]

Guys thanks for all the help. Im pretty sure it is a semi tran dizzy. It has the dial on the side in a little clear cover. This is how it was hooked up and worked fine, dizzy had condensor on outside(haynes says not needed unless bypassing ignitor) so looks like it was wired already for emergencys, but it was still wired going to ignitor. I know it seems like im missing something here, but I have read (10x) haynes ignition chapter. I also read Haynes automotive elec manual, and I am still stumped. I checked and cleaned all grounds on vehicle, I have checked all wires in ignition for continulty, I have tested condensors, put a new coil on, tried to bypass ignitor, cap and rotor wires are excatly same as came off of it. Maybe I need to pull the dizzy and see if I can identify a problem there? I dont know,, starting to really get to me. I am also thinking maybe I should just say f it, and now's a good time to go with DUI.

 

[spotcruiser]

There's no magic in the distributor. You've overlooked something. Changing to DUI won't help.

Are you getting power to the coil?

I'll ask again:
1) Did you set the point gap while on a cam lobe? If not, the contacts will never close and will never energize the coil primary.
2) Does the rotor look to be the correct size and is it installed?

Is your high tension wire (coil to dizzy) fully seated on both ends?
Does the cap have the spring loaded contact inside (heard of a missing one, once)?
Do you want a better diagram than the Hayne's manual, so you can check connections? Do you know the right connections to bypass the ignitor?

Keep in mind, if you remove your distributor you need to get it fully seated when you go to reinstall it. If not, it won't engage your oil pump and you will burn up your engine.

If it ran before you changed the points, cap, and rotor, you either didn't put something back together correctly or one of the parts was faulty. That simple. Don't give up.

 

[warhorse]

The better diagram idea sounds better.. Anyone have one?

 

[spotcruiser]

The better diagram idea sounds better.. Anyone have one?

Yep. Hit me direct and we'll work out a way to get it to you. Have you got a fax I can send it to (easiest way)? I can also provide you with a mark-up for bypassing the ignitor.

Todd Bull.

 

[Landpimp]

if it has(like he says) the octane adjuster on the side of the dizzy it is a non US dizzy(ie early cruiser dizzy) not a semi transistorized dizzy. Maybe you can use the ignitor.....I dunno.

if non US dizzy it should look something like this

No, John. The '76 and '77 ignition systems were semi-transistorized. They use a regular distributor and points to control the firing of the ignitor. In '78, the system changed to fully electronic, with the mag pick-up in the distributor.

I have a non-US (actually early US) distributor with an ignitor (stock) in my '76 right now. I swapped to the early distributor to get rid of the stock distributor with vacuum retard (CA smog control). The beauty of the semi-transistorized ignition is that the points last much longer (carry only control current) and can be reconnected as a points-only ignition in a pinch if the ignitor dies.

Todd Bull.

 

[Landpimp]

If it were me I would get another set of points, I have a feeling you have fried your. WHen adjusting make sure the key is off or you can fry the points, I didnt know this was possible but I freid 2 sets of points trying to adjust them with the key on, got another set installed them, adjusted with the key off and it fired right up. I was so sick of the points however I swaped to a fj60 dizzy........no points

 

[spotcruiser]

if it has(like he says) the octane adjuster on the side of the dizzy it is a non US dizzy(ie early cruiser dizzy) not a semi transistorized dizzy. Maybe you can use the ignitor.....

Correct. The semi-transistorized ignition system (stock 1975 - 1977) uses a regular distributor and an ignitor. The points serve as the timing signal to the ignitor. Many people install the early distributor (with the octane adjuster) to gain a vacuum advance (many of the original 75-77 distributors were vacuum retard for smog control). In 1978, the ignition system became fully transistorized. The fully transistorized ignitors need the mag signal from the distributor, and they are not interchangable with the earlier versions.


As he noted in his posts, he has the early distributor and the stock ignitor (wired and functional).

 

[warhorse]

My dizzy looks just like the one that pimp sent, except no nice little plug coming off, just wires. I will get some new points ordered tomorrow and try that, could possibly be the problem, guess we will see.

 

[warhorse]

Thanks to spotcruiser my dizzy is working again!!! Looks like the stud coming out the side was grounded out, my little plastic washer was gone. Something I never would have missed. Made me a new one out of a Dr.Pepper top, screwed her on and she fired right up!! Thanks for everyones help, hopefully Im not the only dumbass that has done this. Time to go tape back up all the wires! Thanks Guys