Mounting a RTT on factory cross bars

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Joined
Aug 6, 2020
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3
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Location
missouri
For this season, to save some money (let’s be honest, to spend money on other land cruiser upgrades) I installed my Roofnest Condor XL (very similar to iKamper 2.0) on my factory cross bars. The Condor is 160lbs.

One of the biggest challenges was room to fit the wrench and my hand between the cross bar and the roof of the LC since the cross bar sits low. Also, the bolts that roofnest provided were very long and after it settled in, actually made contact with the LC roof in a location. In hindsight, I should have delayed the install and purchased shorter bolts.

To raise the RTT up to make it slightly easier to wrench down and to prevent the long bolts from damaging my roof, I wedged rubber pieces on the top side of my cross bar and the bottom mounting rail of the RTT. This elevated it all about a 1/4” and gave me a little clearance to work and to prevent bolt damage on roof. For the rubber I went to Lowe’s and purchased a rubber pipe coupler that I cut into squares with tin shears.

To increase stability, due to the factory cross bars having some flex, after the tent is deployed, I wedge in triangle shaped rubber boat trailer parts I got from Bass Pro, after a tip from someone on the roofnest forum. This supports the tent not only on the cross bars, but across an additional 4 points on the roof rack rail itself, and really makes the set up solid.

So the combination of rubber strips above the cross bar and rubber wedges, the set up is pretty sturdy enough, to use this season (and possibly longer) until I stop spending money on other land cruiser things and buy a slim line racks.

just wanted to share!

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For this season, to save some money (let’s be honest, to spend money on other land cruiser upgrades) I installed my Roofnest Condor XL (very similar to iKamper 2.0) on my factory cross bars. The Condor is 160lbs.

One of the biggest challenges was room to fit the wrench and my hand between the cross bar and the roof of the LC since the cross bar sits low. Also, the bolts that roofnest provided were very long and after it settled in, actually made contact with the LC roof in a location. In hindsight, I should have delayed the install and purchased shorter bolts.

To raise the RTT up to make it slightly easier to wrench down and to prevent the long bolts from damaging my roof, I wedged rubber pieces on the top side of my cross bar and the bottom mounting rail of the RTT. This elevated it all about a 1/4” and gave me a little clearance to work and to prevent bolt damage on roof. For the rubber I went to Lowe’s and purchased a rubber pipe coupler that I cut into squares with tin shears.

To increase stability, due to the factory cross bars having some flex, after the tent is deployed, I wedge in triangle shaped rubber boat trailer parts I got from Bass Pro, after a tip from someone on the roofnest forum. This supports the tent not only on the cross bars, but across an additional 4 points on the roof rack rail itself, and really makes the set up solid.

So the combination of rubber strips above the cross bar and rubber wedges, the set up is pretty sturdy enough, to use this season (and possibly longer) until I stop spending money on other land cruiser things and buy a slim line racks.

just wanted to share!

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I would get shorter bolts ASAP, things settle and loosen. Better to handle this at home rather than trying to source in middle of nowhere.
 
Two photos after the internal foam settled on the bracket and bottom of the tent, after a few days and before the additional rubber.

And here is another one with tent deployed, after using it for a weekend, with rubber. A bit more space than previously.

I don’t think it’s going to settle anymore than it has. I check the tightness about every 100 miles, so I’m continuously monitoring the bolts and any settling. Haven’t noticed any additional after camping with three people and having it like this for three weeks. But if it does, I think I’ll just wedge some rubber between the bolt and the roof. I can’t explain what a complete pain in the butt it was to install and put up, so I really don’t want to try to get friends to help again and go through all that until I take it off for the season after Thanksgiving. At that point I’ll buy a rhino rack or prinsu. If I don’t buy a rack, I’ll definitely buy shorter bolts at that point.

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If you end up wanting to, you could cut them down in place. Thread some nuts on and use them as cutting guides for a hacksaw blade. When unscrewing the inner nut it will clean up the threads.
 
No, the hardware package came with bolts that have the plastic inside them to prevent them from loosening. Likely something to add though next season.
 
Would advise when shorter bolts are sourced replace nuts with quality Nyloc nuts. Mfg's consistently use cheapest available.
Thanks for sharing this so far as I’m thinking of doing something similar . So I take 2 people sleeping in tent? What is total weight you can put on roof? Any wind noise?
Thx in advance!
 
Two photos after the internal foam settled on the bracket and bottom of the tent, after a few days and before the additional rubber.

And here is another one with tent deployed, after using it for a weekend, with rubber. A bit more space than previously.

I don’t think it’s going to settle anymore than it has. I check the tightness about every 100 miles, so I’m continuously monitoring the bolts and any settling. Haven’t noticed any additional after camping with three people and having it like this for three weeks. But if it does, I think I’ll just wedge some rubber between the bolt and the roof. I can’t explain what a complete pain in the butt it was to install and put up, so I really don’t want to try to get friends to help again and go through all that until I take it off for the season after Thanksgiving. At that point I’ll buy a rhino rack or prinsu. If I don’t buy a rack, I’ll definitely buy shorter bolts at that point.

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Not get to personal but easy does it on the wild thing action! :hillbilly:
 
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