mini disc ? (1 Viewer)

[nspctr1]

I found an 84 mini that was wrecked in the rear. Someone already yanked the engine and pulled the tie rods so they are not available but, the complete front axle is there. Is it worth pulling the parts and trying to locate tie rods? What will they run? Is there any other parts on this truck that will convert to my 73 FJ40? The resorvoir and pump went with the engine but the box and column are still there if someone wanted to do a PS conversion.

Thanks
Kevin

 

[projektdotnet]

grab the axle and get sag or FJ60 steering. Those knuckles make for a nice disc brake conversion

 

[nspctr1]

that is the intention, mini disc conversion but, it's missing the tie rods. Is this a huge problem? BTW, I've heard the term SAS a mini frame before but, what does that mean?

 

[John Smith]

You won't reuse any of the minitruck tierods so don't worry about them. SAS = solid axle swap. You will need to source some large pattern knuckle LC steering arms also.

 

[cardinal fang]

Look in the tech section on the write ups swapping the front discs froma mini into your 73. The second best mod you can do. The first being power steering.

 

[projektdotnet]

as stated the tierods wouldn't be used on your truck. Are you planning on lifting (read soa) this truck. If so you may want to consider getting highsteer instead of standard steering arms.

I'm wondering if hysteer would screw stuff up while SUA still or not?

 

[nspctr1]

OK, I'm confused. While reading the Tech ARticles it says to keep the mini tie rods that they will be required. Can you use the LC steering arms?

 

[projektdotnet]

FJ60 arms will fit. But the fj60 parts wont fit your fj40 steering components...IIRC the really late model FJ40's had the better bolt pattern. I could be wrong...experts please!!

 

[G_Stratton]

I did the mini knuckle disc swap and used Marlin Crawler’s high steer crossover arms, tie rod and custom relay rod with FJ80 tie rod ends.

Marlin Crawler worked with me to match my system. I’m using an IFS PS gear box off of a 87 toy PU.

You can use the original mini PU arms and just buy new tie rod ends. They are about $15 to 20 ea. You can’t use your original LC tie rod ends, the diameter and deg of angle of the taper is smaller then the mini PU. On the FJ 80 tie rod ends the tape is the same but the threaded ends that screw into the rods are about double the size of the mini PU.

Hope that helps

Guy

 

[ibewebbman]

FJ60 arms will fit. But the fj60 parts wont fit your fj40 steering components...IIRC the really late model FJ40's had the better bolt pattern. I could be wrong...experts please!!

Im no expert but IMHO the best / cleanest set up (if your not going hardcore or SOA and or highsteer) is to get some late model FJ40 arms(~'81 on ?). SOR / Cruiser Outfitters and many other have these aftermarket. Its not the cheapest solution but your original TRE's and tie rod will work perfectly...taper etc all lines up. I suggest confirming all the above as this is the method I went but its still waiting to be bolted up so this is from my research not experience.

 

[el_diabolico]

You can use your tie rod ends, but you will need a bushing (Borg # SB0, or Wells # 4200B) to fit them in the mini steering arms.

 

[e rock]

You can use your tie rod ends, but you will need a bushing (Borg # SB0, or Wells # 4200B) to fit them in the mini steering arms.

X2

Until you're ready to upgrade to PS, I see no reason to do a bunch of modification to your stock steering parts. Get the bushings so your stock TREs will fit in the minitruck steering arms. My solution was slightly more complicated, but accomplished the same end result.

Your stock tie-rod will be a bit too long, but here's what I did: I threaded the passenger side TRE in as far as I could, and if I could have threaded the driver's side TRE in all the way (driver's side is easier to play with since the drag link is connected to the passenger side), it would have been fine. But the tie-rod isn't threaded all the way in, so I just cut off about 1/2" of the threads on the TRE so that it would thread in flush. There's no loss in strength to worry about - I've still got more threads in contact than it was in stock form.

Drives great, stops great.


You'd still have to address your master cylinder, but there's plenty of pre-existing knowledge on that one.

 

[nspctr1]

On the tech line it doesnt mention replacing the MC when doing a mini conversion. What is the advantage gained? Also, on the TRE's, my existing ones have approx 3/8 to a 1/2 inch of threads exposed so there should be enough there to adjust it either way w/o cutting anything. right? If all goes well I'll be picking up the parts saturday morning and maybe installing saturday nite or sunday. Not sure what hubs are on the mini but I'll probably keep the warn hubs on the 40.. I have lotsa rags and stuff ready to go, I may take pics but it seems there are enough how to's on the site already....