marlin leaves on 2nd gen

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Anyone converted their 2nd gen to rear Marlin or All Pro leaf springs? I've got my frame clean and doing the measurements to find where to locate the front hanger. Wondering how far to move the hanger forward to compensate for rear deflection under compression? I was thinking about an inch and a quarter?

Don't want to get it wrong and have to burn off the mounts after the first trail ride. Marlin had no answers when I called and said to check the internet, lol. Really hated the lifted 4 link, happy to be converting to tried and true, can't break'um leaves :D.

If anyone has experience with this, let me know how yours worked out.

BTW, the springs are about 54" not compressed so I assume you allow for 2" under full compressionto get to 56"? Going on the fact that the bumpstops will probably never allow full compression gives me 1 1/4 to 1 1/2"?:meh:
 
OK, how long is the curve of the spring? Put a tape measure on the spring leaf and measure from center eye to center eye. That will get you the maximum length the spring will extend. This is the extended length. How long are your shackles, center of pin to center of pin? Subtract that from the extended length. The center lines of the mount pin and eye can be no closer than that result or else damage to the springs, mounts or shackles will happen when at full compression. Now, if you allow for some arch up at full compression, then you must have the shackle at a reasonable angle when the spring is at full compression or you could damage mounts, springs, or shackles. The closer the shackle approaches to being inline with the spring, the stronger the stretching of the eyes will be. That is bad... How much of angle do you want that at? I don't know. Personally I'd stay at more than a 35 degree angle between the shackle and spring. 45 degrees would be much better. Draw a line from spring eye to spring eye and shackle pin to shackle pin. That should be more than 35 degrees when fully compressed. The next thing to look at is what angle does the shackle make when the spring is uncompressed. I personally feel the spring end of the shackles should not be in front of the mount end with no weight on it, jacked up via bumper so the wheel is lifted off the ground. At the worst it should be no more than 15 degrees in front.

Here's the real rub. Your spring will settle in some with use. It will loose a bit of it's arch. Thankfully this only really effects the resting and uncompressed angles.

Things to avoid: Don't allow the spring end of the shackle to ever go above the frame attachment point. Bad things can happen. When calculating the position for the mounts, take into account slop in the joints. This will come from looseness in the joints from wear over time. Shackle angles should always be measured off of a line from frame mounting point to frame mounting point or spring eye to spring eye.
 
How long are your shackles, center of pin to center of pin? Subtract that from the extended length. The center lines of the mount pin and eye can be no closer than that result or else damage to the springs, mounts or shackles will happen when at full compression.

Good call, haven't thought of that. The shackle angle will be set at 22 1/2 degrees as marlin recommends. Springs are used, so shouldn't be much settling hopefully. By the way, springs are 56", shackles are 5 1/2 center to center.

Need to do some serious measuring, really shooting for the tire to be centered at full compression. As you know, the spring will travel backwards when compressed, just not sure how much.
 
*I thought the black one already had leafs? Tried the Pirate FAQ or search yet?

Not trying to sound goofy, I just don't have a correct answer for that length spring. Usually it's a full Marlin kit used around here and the directions are dead on.

For that matter, maybe some of the members from OZ can chime in since theirs are factory leaf on the Hilux's and would know what it looks like, versus what might need to be done??

*I'll look and see what I can find and link it in if anything's useful. Although not a Marlin build, here's John Gabriel's build for some info: http://www.trail-gear.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=5153

O/T what are your thoughts about the debate over a small side plate that ties in the edges of the hanger versus what I've seen done with the back of it being tied in with a wedge of box tube..in order to prevent the whole cracking at the back of the mount issue?
 
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the spring hanger should be about one inch forward of the crossmember to put the shackles at the right angle have done two of these first on put it in line with the crossmember and had to move it second one worked out great one inch foward
 
I have installed a marlin kit on a friend's '84 4runner, and the directions were measurements off of current spring mounting points. Keep in mind that the second gen has different cross members being they have coil spring/ 4 link rear suspension. The friend's 4runner is so light, his springs barely move(not top, no rear seat) so I really can't get measurements from his rig.

There are no reference points.

I know how to figure shackle angle once the front mounts are in place, just trying to figure out how far the tire is going to move back as the spring flattens out, so that the tire stuffs perfectly. My 35's fit so well in the wheel well that they did not rub with the previous suspension. would like to keep that. :D

This truck used to have the FJ80 coil / johnny joint rear suspension and it just never worked right, links are too short and the angle too steep causing too much rear steer and other unpredictable handling. I'm just not a 4 link kinda guy.......
 
This is hugely frustrating. :bang:

The trailgear write-up is better than anything I have found, (thanks norcal) but if you look closely at the picture, he is holding the tape at 17 or 17.5 inches (count back from 12 since the tape is hard to read). He says 16.5 to center pin, but down in post #19 he moved the mount an inch forward? 15.5 is wrong for sure, I think he meant rearward, that would make 17.5.

my spring flattened out center pin to front eye center is 27 1/4.

Drop a plumb bob down from center of wheel well and measure 27 1/4 forward and that puts me 17 1/4 back from the cross member. Does that make sense to anyone else?????? Grrrrrr.......maybe I should aim for the middle and go 17" back. :censor:
 
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