I needed to change a tire on my M1102 trailer that the wind shredded the rag top on one tire was flat. I put the forks on my John Deere bucket and chocked the spar and lifted it out of the trailer and moved it over to the barn.
Carried it over to the barn and set in the barn on the 40 series tires
Then hooked up the trailer to the tractor to move to the pad outside the barn
Set up on the pad to pull the tire of the other side
With an electric impact I got the flat off of the hub. The parking brakes still work and held breaking the torque on the lug nuts.
spread the forks and installed the spreader bar to keep them in place. I cant lift and line up on the studs so I had my helper Johnny do the work
I put the uprights that are supported by the top of the bucket that I made for picking up my roll around diesel tank to support the tire and slow rolled the tractor forward and then made adjustments with a sledge to move the forks sideways on the bucket and I would muscle the rotation to get it lined up on the studs.
The lunette ring is hard to see with the back up camera and the orange paint did not last so I sprayed it with John Deere green and it showed up better in the camera then the orange ever did and it should last longer
I aired all 3 tires to 30 lbs before heading to town. I also checked the front tires on the John Deere
Once I got the trailer unloaded I picked up two 1/2" pins for the rear stabilizers to secured them better then the rubber bungee cords that were intended to keep them in place for travel. Before I shut everything down for the night I drilled holes and inserted the pins
Today a friend came over to help out and we moved things around to push the 40 back with the tractor. Then hooked the tractor to the trailer and backed it in to pull the brake drums/hubs to service the bearings.
Got the trailer jacked up with the tongue jack and the rear stabilizers so that the tires were off of the ground. Buzzed off the lug nuts and removed both tires and rolled them out of the way.
Pulled the drums after removing the cotter pins and nuts. The needs felt a little tight and used my 3/4 drive ratchet and 1-1/5" socket and with that amount of leverage they did feel just snug.
Cleaned the nuts and thrust washers and put them back on the spindles. Cleaned the spindles with brake cleaner and scotch bright and there was a little varnishing that cleaned up but looks like the pre load was just a little high.
DS spindle after cleaning
PS side spindle after cleaning
The tire irons were delivered last night and put the head and red grip on the hammer. Sprayed all the studs with Kroil and letting them soak.
Buzzed off the nuts of the second rim accept for 1 that was a problem later when trying to break the bead.
Backed up on the tire with the tractor to break the bead. I tried to used the tire irons and it just was not happening. But had to back up on two tires because the pucker factor was getting high in the cab just rolling onto one.
Since I had to stop working on the Prop valve on my 40 I cleaned up and cleaned up the burrs from removing the races on the brake drum/hubs and seated the new races.
The Trail Worthy Fab PVC rings were delivered on Friday and I moved the Goodyear Wrangler 37 12.5 16.5 MT/Rs into a heated space since we are having colder weather but not much for snow. It is snowing right now but I wont need to fire up the tractor to open the road.
I started with cleaning and replacing the valve stems.
Removed the valve stem and shot with some paint
Removed the old O-ring
Cleaned an painted
Removed the original balance weights and buffed with a wire wheel
Sprayed the bead with Dawn dish soap to try to get the rings past the beads. At 210 lbs I am just to light and that proved to just be a waist of time. My size 12 feet also did not fit inside the tire and ring and had to find another way to get it accomplished.
Filtered valve stem cores came with the balancing beads
I bought 4 of these clamps an reversed them to spread the beads to help get the rings in
Was going to use 4 of the clamps to spread the beads apart after I reversed the clamps but they were to long and to light but eventually got the job done
Finally after having the charger hooked up to the tractor battery I got it started and used the bucket to press the ring into the tire and it was still hard and a little violent.
Before turning and centering the ring I opened the corner of the balancing beads and threw in
Leaned the tire against the bucket and used a tire iron and a lot of kicking with the heels of my boots to get the ring into place
O-Ring in place and used Super 77 adhesive spray to help hold it in the groove. I also marked the cut out where the valve stem needs to line up and marked the tire. These rims do not have the extra hole as a reference for aligning the inner and outer pieces of the rim
Inserted the rear of the rim into the tire and ring with the rim sitting on the 4x4 and things were lined up enough that the outer rim and used 4 generic nuts to pull things together. The threads were given a coating of anti seize.
Started the assembly nuts on all the thread and torqued them all to 125 lb/ft after using both electric and air impact in sequence
Inflated to 50 PSI and was looking for leaks
The valve stem was leaking and torqued it some more but did not stop the leak, so I took that section apart and applied sealant and it stopped that leak
Started working on the second tire and it did not go as well as the first tire and took several attempts with the tractor bucket to press the ring violently into the tire. But got it and pretty much destroyed the clamps I was using to spread the beads.
The ring was even tighter and so was a work out to get it orientated in the tire
Finally got it but a little center and that took awhile to get things to line up so the bolt holes and studs would align. Trust me even with out the run flat donut they are still heavy
Inserted the rear piece into the tire and ring
I was picking up the assembly to bounce on the floor to get the ring aligned and even used a hammer on the inside to get some force until things lined up to assemble
Use the 4 generic nuts to pull the rim pieces together
With the other valve stem leaking I put sealant on the second one before airing up. Once the nuts were all torqued to the 125 lb/ft I inflated this tire to 50 psi and started looking for leaks. No visible leaks so far. Have left them and will recheck and compensate for temp differential from last night to when I recheck.
I just checked the air pressure in the tires and one is 46 psi and the other is 45 psi. When I filled them to 50 psi the temp in the barn was over 60 F and now it is less then 30 F and the temp gauge is about 9' off of the floor and the tires are on the floor. I am calling the air test good.
I warmed up the barn and got the new tire jack out of the box to mount the tires back on the hubs
The jack worked pretty good but even though it has a 150 lb rating and with the run flats these weigh less with the PVC bead lock rings one of the flanges bent for one wheel. I also had lift the trailer higher so that I could pick up the tire and get on to the hub.
I had to get creative to get the hubs high enough to lift the tire with the jack.
My high lift jack was to unstable so I used my porta power kit and also had a 4 point support
The lifting of the tire jack was very smooth with a 1/2 ratchet once I had room to lift.
Got both tires mounted back on the hubs
Torqued the lug nuts up with an electric impact on both sides
Today I put the hitch on the tractor and put the trailer on the tires and rolled out of the barn and transferred to the truck and took on a road trip to see how it pulls and how the bearings did. The trailer rolled smooth and no vibration and the bearings were cool.
I had to back up to the lunette ring by brail because that was all I could see because the cab cast a shadow on the hitch and made contact almost dead center on the ring.
