LX470 Purchase Questions/ BUILD THREAD (1 Viewer)

[HotSoup]

I've wanted a LC or LX for a long time. I've been keeping an eye on prices and I t hink now is the time. If anything I'm late but I digress. Anyways I did a PPI on a 00 LX470 yesterday and have a few questions. Please bear with me as I know there is a ton of info on this site but I have a limited time to make this purchase so a couple quick answers in this thread would be greatly appreciated.

Overall, it's in decent shape. A good 20/20 one, only 179k. Timing belt has been changed but I can't read the numbers however she assures me it's been changed in the last 4 years as that is how long she has owned it.

Condition: front bumper is in need of paint but it will go for aftermarket. The hood and top are faded, sides look good. A couple dings here and there but that's it besides all the paint trading on the side trim from being parked in an apartment complex. Left lower front door trim is loose, 3rd brake light is cracked, rear upper chrome trim on hatch is missing. Windshield is ok. Rack on top has some deterioration on the lower trim but it will get replaced with a roof rack. Factor5

Interior: all buttons work, rear windows move in and out. Drivers window squeaks but works. Front seats are trashed, steering wheel also. Rear and 3rd row in great shape.

 

[HotSoup]

I don't see how to edit and mistakenly hit post

Factory wheels with michelin tires in good shape.

Interior cont...factory mats, heat/air work correctly.

Mechanical, no leaks that I can see. Been sitting over a year and nothing on ground. Fluids look ok, but will be baseline if purchased. Quite a few "small" things under hood look replaced such as horns, a metal piece on driver firewall and alternator. Drive belt in good shape.

Undercarriage has a small amount of surface rust but this has been a NC vehicle all its life so I feel ok with it.

AHC works beautifully

Grease on passenger side fenderwell, thick so I'm guessing torn CV. Factory skid is torn from rear most attachment.

Driving....this is where things are concerning as everything checks out to this point and this is where I need help. Upon driving a yellow car light and a alarm is going off periodically. Also, when turning the wheel there is a "click" in the wheel (definitely localized in the interior). She states that the ignition switch needs to be fixed. I feel as if it's the steering wheel lock and needs immediate attention.

So.....after this long thread what could the alarm possibly be? Also, what do you think about the clicking?

Oh, only one key and it's not a master as it only does the doors/ignition so I'm unsure about the alarm system.

What do you feel a good price would be? I've been around cars all my life and I'm not scared to put some work in to restore this thing. Overall it's a solid vehicle, just a couple concerns that I can hopefully fix rather easily.

 

[wrigh003]

I bought one similar to that a couple years ago, it was advertised for $8k with no biters by a buddy (lol, imagine that now) and I bought for a little less. I wasn't gonna argue but he knew it needed a fair bit of old-car work and so we sort of met in the middle.

What I'd do is probably just back off estimated repair costs from a perfect one and see what it comes to. One that looks really great/ is in good/great shape and has that kind of low mileage is probably a $15k truck right now, but a CV axle will be $400 for an OEM part, steering wheel lock update/ repair is a couple hundred in parts, paint in tough shape is a hit against it, paint jobs are $$$$ expensive. Trim falling off doesn't help their case, but it's not the end of world- but some of that stuff is getting hard to find, too. Based on age, not mileage, I'm guessing the steering rack may leak ($600 part and a bunch of PITA labor). Also look at the lines from the PS reservoir to the rack- if those are old and leaky they'll dump fluid into your alternator and that causes you to need to replace that. Easy/ cheap fix but not fun, per se. And then the labor/ time to update stuff, so, eh... $2k, $3k.

I'd probably offer $10k as is if you think THIS is the truck you want, and let them talk me up a little if they must. You might run into one of those people that thinks their old/ needs-help truck is worth top of market price, though, which is way higher, and then, well, you'll never meet in the middle.

 

[HotSoup]

Thanks for your reply. Do you have any info on the lock update?

 

[wrigh003]

Thanks for your reply. Do you have any info on the lock update?

I don't, personally. Mine specifically has been OK, but I know I saw a thread here a day or two ago. Search the Mud- lots of folks have worked on it. It seems like one of those things that's fiddly and dumb to fix, but that it's actually not too hard once you get into it. That's actually kinda true for a lot of stuff on these trucks.

 

[flow2311]

I'd guess without seeing it that the alarm is probably a bad speed sensor causing the traction control to kick in. Not sure on the lock. I would take a close look at the rear hatch though for bondo or repairs. With the cracked 3rd brake and missing trim I would guess that it was backed into something. Make sure they didn't bondo the damage and the hatch closes properly.

 

[HotSoup]

I'd guess without seeing it that the alarm is probably a bad speed sensor causing the traction control to kick in. Not sure on the lock. I would take a close look at the rear hatch though for bondo or repairs. With the cracked 3rd brake and missing trim I would guess that it was backed into something. Make sure they didn't bondo the damage and the hatch closes properly.

I dont think it has had paintwork on the hatch. I would figure if it had been they would have fixed it.

Any way to easily figure out which wheel speed sensor?

 

[wrigh003]

Lock cylinder fix overview (if that's what it is):

Notice the ignition cam is just a cast white-metal thing.

 

[HotSoup]

Lock cylinder fix overview (if that's what it is):

Notice the ignition cam is just a cast white-metal thing.

I watched that video earlier, very well put together.

She said she had a $99 part installed in the ignition. It makes me wonder if it's the clockspring but I'm just grasping at straws.

 

[flow2311]

I dont think it has had paintwork on the hatch. I would figure if it had been they would have fixed it.

Any way to easily figure out which wheel speed sensor?

I believe Techstream will show you. Or some high end ODB2 scanners should show you.

 

[wrigh003]

I believe Techstream will show you. Or some high end ODB2 scanners should show you.

If you really are into it - a techstream cable is $20-30 and the software is "free"-- if you don't mind a little light piracy of 20-yr-old OEM maintenance software. :| You'll probably want it anyway to help get some more keys programmed. I've only got the one myself and need to get on that.

I watched that video earlier, very well put together.

She said she had a $99 part installed in the ignition. It makes me wonder if it's the clockspring but I'm just grasping at straws.

Could be. None of that really seems like a dealbreaker, though. It's a 22-23yo truck, there are gonna be little things here and there, just due to age. Although the core vehicle is solid and really pretty easy to maintain/repair - it's still at this point nearly an antique. Toyota does a real good job on parts availability, though, at least on mechanical stuff. The trim and little interior bits and bobs are the tougher part, and this place is really good for getting a read on what you need to look for. For a free resource, this place is one of the best. I've said this before and will say again - I'll never buy another enthusiast car that doesn't have something like Mud to use as the core of the community. It helps A LOT.

I'll quit bending your ear - post pics and let us know if you get the thing.

 

[HotSoup]

If you really are into it - a techstream cable is $20-30 and the software is "free"-- if you don't mind a little light piracy of 20-yr-old OEM maintenance software. :| You'll probably want it anyway to help get some more keys programmed. I've only got the one myself and need to get on that.


Could be. None of that really seems like a dealbreaker, though. It's a 22-23yo truck, there are gonna be little things here and there, just due to age. Although the core vehicle is solid and really pretty easy to maintain/repair - it's still at this point nearly an antique. Toyota does a real good job on parts availability, though, at least on mechanical stuff. The trim and little interior bits and bobs are the tougher part, and this place is really good for getting a read on what you need to look for. For a free resource, this place is one of the best. I've said this before and will say again - I'll never buy another enthusiast car that doesn't have something like Mud to use as the core of the community. It helps A LOT.

I'll quit bending your ear - post pics and let us know if you get the thing.

I've owned a Supra for 18years....I've seen parts dwindle in availability for sure!

I made a deal on it and will post pictures when time allows as I'll pick it up tomorrow but have to work the next 3 nights.

I'll throw it on a lift next week and really dig into it. I'm fully prepared to spend some $$$ to get it where it needs to be.

 

[HotSoup]

Also, I need to find that cable. I messaged the guy in the info thread but haven't heard back.

 

[wrigh003]

Also, I need to find that cable. I messaged the guy in the info thread but haven't heard back.

This is the one I bought- it's $60 now, but I'd have sworn it was $30-40 when I bought it a year ago. Works, though.

https://amzn.to/3szGKhe

Also: ha- my other fun car is an S2000. Not a Yota, but definitely has an internet full of people to ask stuff about. My problem (you might get this with the Supra, too) is avoiding the stance/ airbag/ crazy park-bench-wing crowd.

 

[HotSoup]

This is the one I bought- it's $60 now, but I'd have sworn it was $30-40 when I bought it a year ago. Works, though.

https://amzn.to/3szGKhe

Also: ha- my other fun car is an S2000. Not a Yota, but definitely has an internet full of people to ask stuff about. My problem (you might get this with the Supra, too) is avoiding the stance/ airbag/ crazy park-bench-wing crowd.

Supra has been a 10yr project but last time I drove it, was a pure cock magnet.

 

[scanderson76]

The clicking might be the rotating plastic piece behind where the clockspring resides. I had to grease mine and the scraping sound went away. Just a thought, as it might be something very simple or horrible. The telescoping wheel worm gear can be quite a pain in the a$$ to diagnose and repair on these. Good luck

 

[HotSoup]

I'll take a video and post it when I get a chance. Appreciate the replies and support thus far.

 

[flow2311]

Also, I need to find that cable. I messaged the guy in the info thread but haven't heard back.

Here is an ebay link to a cable and cd with techstream.

Single Cable Mini-vci J2534 For Toyota Tis Techstream V15.00.028 Diagnostic Item | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Single Cable Mini-vci J2534 For Toyota Tis Techstream V15.00.028 Diagnostic Item at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

You want a "mini-vci" cable, and the Techstream software. Theres a couple links on how to make it work. Try searching "Techstream in 5 minutes."

 

[HotSoup]

Just got it home. Found some service records in the dash, its had a rack, ps hoses, alternator, wheel bearings, tie rod ends. All in 2016 at 155k. I'll get some pictures when I can, about to try and sleep before work tonight.

Paid $8k

 

[wrigh003]

Just got it home. Found some service records in the dash, its had a rack, ps hoses, alternator, wheel bearings, tie rod ends. All in 2016 at 155k. I'll get some pictures when I can, about to try and sleep before work tonight.

Paid $8k

Nicely done, then. Sounds like you did pretty well. Enjoy it!