LX towing

[speyrod]

I am justg about done fighting with USAA for a settlement on my totaled 80. On to a 200 and a larger boat. I have a 22ft Sea Sport contracted pending survery and sea trial. The boat 5K LB, trailer 1K LB, stuff and fuel 1.5K LB (I could drop 500lb in fuel). SO, looking at a 2010 or earlier thoughts on towing? I would think equilizer hitch. But I would be close to 10% of max total towing weight and close if you use the 9-15% for tongue weight.

I wouldn't be towing often a few times a year. Thoughts?

 

[grinchy]

Sounds completely doable.

 

[dnh1]

LC and LX both suck for towing ride wise due to wheelbase. LX way more practical than LC due to AHC. You won’t even touch capacity. You’re fine.

I’ve owned 5 200s. 3 LXs and 2 LCs. There’s my 09 with about double the weight you are talking about behind it.

 

[TeCKis300]

I had my concerns about towing too on account of wheelbase. For my purposes towing a 28' travel trailer, the wheelbase concern never came to fruition! Solid, stable, and nary a hint of sway even with rigs passing on 1 lane roads, at least when fitted with the necessary WD/anti-sway setup. I use an Equalizer.

Couple things can also help if towing at the top of the range is to use LT tires. Though 20" wheels goes a way to maximizing lateral stability already. Make sure the drop bar keeps the ball nice and close to the rear bumper. Don't want to run a drop bar that projects too far out, which will exacerbate the short wheelbase (which is really the wheelbase to rear overhang ratio that's important).

If you've ever towed with a diesel, just don't expect a gasser to tow without rpm. She's got good torque, but will need to spin to make hp when going up hills. Let her spin!


dnh1, just awesome! That second picture is a tease. I only see the upper half of it?

 

[JayTortugaTee]

+1 to DNH’s comments.

I pull a nearly 10K# 25’ mastercraft behind mine and its fine.
With the shorter wheelbase, you definitely feel the boat, but as long as you’re in control and are a decent driver, its all good.

 

[dnh1]

I had my concerns about towing too on account of wheelbase. For my purposes towing a 28' travel trailer, the wheelbase concern never came to fruition! Solid, stable, and nary a hint of sway even with rigs passing on 1 lane roads, at least when fitted with the necessary WD/anti-sway setup. I use an Equalizer.

Couple things can also help if towing at the top of the range is to use LT tires. Though 20" wheels goes a way to maximizing lateral stability already. Make sure the drop bar keeps the ball nice and close to the rear bumper. Don't want to run a drop bar that projects too far out, which will exacerbate the short wheelbase (which is really the wheelbase to rear overhang ratio that's important).

If you've ever towed with a diesel, just don't expect a gasser to tow without rpm. She's got good torque, but will need to spin to make hp when going up hills. Let her spin!


dnh1, just awesome! That second picture is a tease. I only see the upper half of it?

My bad

 

[speyrod]

Thanks, good to know that it shouldn't be an issue.

 

[SF1911A1]

Reviving an old thread, I can’t find anything on the interwebs nor mud regarding the actual process of the initial setting up an equalizer hitch on a 200 series LX. AHC is throwing me off because no video that I’ve seen or post discusses how to do the initial setup. Do I measure the height of the fender well with no trailer attached in N or LO? I’m thinking N, but the manual says to put the LX in LO and then raise it to N once the trailer is attached. Can anyone break this down for a travel trailer noob? I am picking up a Rockwood Roo 23SS with a dry weight of ~4400 so say ~5000 lbs loaded. I have an equalizer 4 point hitch rated at 1k/10k and it’s all going on a 2013 LX.

I appreciate any and all help, even if it’s a sarcastic link to an old post detailing this that I was too inept to find on my own. Thank you.

 

[GordJ]

I believe should be done in “N” with the engine off or a door open to stop the AHC from leveling the truck

 

[coleAK]

I use a husky round bar WD hitch and set mine up at CAT scales. Also like @GordJ mentioned N height and I turned the AHC off.

 

[coleAK]

Reviving an old thread, I can’t find anything on the interwebs nor mud regarding the actual process of the initial setting up an equalizer hitch on a 200 series LX. AHC is throwing me off because no video that I’ve seen or post discusses how to do the initial setup. Do I measure the height of the fender well with no trailer attached in N or LO? I’m thinking N, but the manual says to put the LX in LO and then raise it to N once the trailer is attached. Can anyone break this down for a travel trailer noob? I am picking up a Rockwood Roo 23SS with a dry weight of ~4400 so say ~5000 lbs loaded. I have an equalizer 4 point hitch rated at 1k/10k and it’s all going on a 2013 LX.

I appreciate any and all help, even if it’s a sarcastic link to an old post detailing this that I was too inept to find on my own. Thank you.

I use a husky round bar WD hitch and set mine up at CAT scales. Also like @GordJ mentioned N height and I turned the AHC off.

 

[coleAK]

Reviving an old thread, I can’t find anything on the interwebs nor mud regarding the actual process of the initial setting up an equalizer hitch on a 200 series LX. AHC is throwing me off because no video that I’ve seen or post discusses how to do the initial setup. Do I measure the height of the fender well with no trailer attached in N or LO? I’m thinking N, but the manual says to put the LX in LO and then raise it to N once the trailer is attached. Can anyone break this down for a travel trailer noob? I am picking up a Rockwood Roo 23SS with a dry weight of ~4400 so say ~5000 lbs loaded. I have an equalizer 4 point hitch rated at 1k/10k and it’s all going on a 2013 LX.

I appreciate any and all help, even if it’s a sarcastic link to an old post detailing this that I was too inept to find on my own. Thank you.

I use a husky round bar WD hitch and set mine up at CAT scales. Also like @GordJ mentioned N height and I turned the AHC off.

 

[TeCKis300]

Reviving an old thread, I can’t find anything on the interwebs nor mud regarding the actual process of the initial setting up an equalizer hitch on a 200 series LX. AHC is throwing me off because no video that I’ve seen or post discusses how to do the initial setup. Do I measure the height of the fender well with no trailer attached in N or LO? I’m thinking N, but the manual says to put the LX in LO and then raise it to N once the trailer is attached. Can anyone break this down for a travel trailer noob? I am picking up a Rockwood Roo 23SS with a dry weight of ~4400 so say ~5000 lbs loaded. I have an equalizer 4 point hitch rated at 1k/10k and it’s all going on a 2013 LX.

I appreciate any and all help, even if it’s a sarcastic link to an old post detailing this that I was too inept to find on my own. Thank you.

The best way to set up the Equalizer, or any WD hitch, is probably multiple passes on a CAT scale to setup and verify final adjustment. Goal is to restore front axle weight to within ~100-200lbs of unhitched weight.

That said, I've yet to find time in all my trips to verify my setup by objective measurement. She's imminently stable by feel in all the mountains and winds I've experienced.

As I also run an Equalizer, I can give you some anecdotal pointers. My rig is at stock suspension heights, so I'm assuming you haven't tried to AHC level (remove rake) your rig. And that your ball height will allow your trailer will sit level front to back.

1) My WD L brackets are setup so they hold the WD bars parallel to the tongue structural members
2) With the bars parallel, I use 7 washers worth of down angle on the hitch head. I would start with 6 on your relatively lighter trailer.

Give her a drive and note if she feels stable tracking down the road at freeway speeds. Don't be afraid to try 7 or even 8 washers for more down angle (WD tension).

Verify setup on CAT scales.

Note that WD setup is only one variable in overall rig stability. It can to some extent make up for other shortcomings. There's other knobs to turn too. Like adding or ensuring there's sufficient tongue weight. Or ensuring there's not too much counterweight (load) at the rear of the trailer. Or making sure the ball is setup close and tight to the rear bumper to maximize effective wheelbase (to rear overhang ratio). Incrementally more air pressure in tires of for more lateral stability.

 

[SF1911A1]

T

The best way to set up the Equalizer, or any WD hitch, is probably multiple passes on a CAT scale to setup and verify final adjustment. Goal is to restore front axle weight to within ~100-200lbs of unhitched weight.

That said, I've yet to find time in all my trips to verify my setup by objective measurement. She's imminently stable by feel in all the mountains and winds I've experienced.

As I also run an Equalizer, I can give you some anecdotal pointers. My rig is at stock suspension heights, so I'm assuming you haven't tried to AHC level (remove rake) your rig. And that your ball height will allow your trailer will sit level front to back.

1) My WD L brackets are setup so they hold the WD bars parallel to the tongue structural members
2) With the bars parallel, I use 7 washers worth of down angle on the hitch head. I would start with 6 on your relatively lighter trailer.

Give her a drive and note if she feels stable tracking down the road at freeway speeds. Don't be afraid to try 7 or even 8 washers for more down angle (WD tension).

Verify setup on CAT scales.

Note that WD setup is only one variable in overall rig stability. It can to some extent make up for other shortcomings. But there's other knobs to turn too. Like adding or enduring there's sufficient tongue weight. Or ensuring there's not too much counterweight (load) at the rear of the trailer. Or making sure the ball is setup close and tight to the rear bumper to maximize effective wheelbase (to rear overhang ratio). Incrementally more air pressure in tires of for more lateral stability.

Thanks for the tips. I actually have access to portable scales for commercial trucks so I could just use those any time I suppose. I’m just afraid of damaging the AHC by hooking up in low and raising to neutral even though that’s exactly what the owners manual says to do. I’m sure I’m over thinking it, I just don’t want to regret not doing my homework now and paying for it one way or the other later. I’ve been surprised by how little actual information there is for LX owners, seems like everyone on mud that tows has a LC, not an LX.

 

[TeCKis300]

Ah, portable scales! That's almost cheating.

The LX has some inherent advantages towing because of AHC. Not the least of which is maintaining clearance and ride height, with no sag when towing heavy, while always maintaining comfort and composure.

I always hitch up with the engine running. As a tip, keeping or opening any door, including the hatch will keep AHC from adjusting. I'll use all positions including L, M, and H when hitching up. L to get the ball under the trailer. Normal or high to get the ball seated. High, to relax the WD bars to get them on/off. The system is robust so use it to your advantage when hitching/unhitching.

There's a few more party tricks with AHC. Because height is dynamic:
1) Ride height lowers ~1" at 62mph. This effectively increases WD tension just when it's needed the most for higher speed stability. Looked at another way, it allows static WD tension to be set somewhat lower for cruising and around town, while maintaining good articulation between the tow vehicle and trailer.
2) Ability to raise to H position on the fly, can be used as a way to relax WD bars on demand. I use it when entering dips to gas stations or campgrounds. Again, to help with more articulation while mitigating WD tension and the stress it imparts at extreme angles between the tow vehicle and trailer.
3) Ability to level the trailer fore and aft at campgrounds without unhitching. Especially unique is the L position, to bring the trailer nose lower than standard height. Swing the WD bars off the L brackets and it'll squat even lower. Something that can't be replicated with the tongue jack.

 

[TeCKis300]

To answer your original question on how to set up the WD hitch. Since you have scales at your disposal, you'll want to use that to your advantage.

The general goal is to achieve ~50% front axles load restoration (FALR). That is you'll want to measure the front axle unhitched. Then hitch up without WD bars engaged and re-measure the front axle. From there, engage and adjust the WD bars such that the front axle weighs about the half way point between those first two numbers.

At each measurement, it's important to let AHC fully level the vehicle. Because attitude of the TV, and attitude of the trailer both effect loads and how much the WD bars are tensioned.

 

[SF1911A1]

That is incredibly helpful and also puts my mind at ease using the AHC. I know it’s a strong system, I just get paranoid of being the towing noob that destroys his suspension because he doesn’t fully understand its limits. Thank you very much for the tips. I picked up the hitch today and get the camper on Saturday.

Somewhere between now and then I need to take apart the dash to install the brake controller. Not looking forward to that job. I called a local hitch installer today and he said he would not touch my lexus because lexus’ are touchy and if he pokes a wire to figure out what it is, it will throw a check engine light. That sounds really stupid to me, any truth to it in your experience?

 

[g1701gst]

Somewhere between now and then I need to take apart the dash to install the brake controller. Not looking forward to that job. I called a local hitch installer today and he said he would not touch my lexus because lexus’ are touchy and if he pokes a wire to figure out what it is, it will throw a check engine light. That sounds really stupid to me, any truth to it in your experience?

I haven't tried it personally yet but believe it should be really easy. Check your glove box for a wiring harness plug make connecting really simple, if your lx didn't come with one it should be easy to find one. Pictures and details here: Trailer Brake Controller Connector

Good luck

 

[SF1911A1]

I haven't tried it personally yet but believe it should be really easy. Check your glove box for a wiring harness plug make connecting really simple, if your lx didn't come with one it should be easy to find one. Pictures and details here: Trailer Brake Controller Connector

Good luck

Yeah I ordered the tekonsha primus and tekonsha adapter so it should plug and play. It just looks like it will be a bitch to get into the dash to get to the actual connector. Unless any of y’all have discovered a shortcut to pulling apart the driver side dash...?