LX Slee Slider install assistance needed

[Ratchey]

I am in the process of installing my sliders. I decided to cut my side steps as the availability of LC rockers is minimal.
I trimmed the outer silver section and removed the black insert and aluminum support. I didn't do any other cutting.
The problem I have is that there is nearly an inch gap between the slider and the bottom of the rocker panel.
I have tweaked and pushed and prodded and this is as far up as I can get them.
Did you guys who trimmed your side steps leave part of the black insert in? From the threads I have looked at, it looks like most are cutting where the rocker starts to go under/back.
Is there something I missed? A trick to getting these higher? In the pic, that is a 3/8th's 10mm socket that is 15/16" tall.
Nothing is tight except the two lower bolts on the center mounts. The slider is pressed as high against those as I can get them. I have had to move the rear light outward to clear the accumulator and the slider is just slightly back to clear the rear globe.

 

[TomEf]

That gap seems about right to me. You want that gap between the slider and the body to allow for movement of the body mounts, or else they'll be banging together nonstop.

Here's the photo from Slee's website that shows a decent gap:

 

[Ratchey]

That gap seems about right to me. You want that gap between the slider and the body to allow for movement of the body mounts, or else they'll be banging together nonstop.

Here's the photo from Slee's website that shows a decent gap:

View attachment 2291928

Yeah, the instructions say 3/8" I can slide my fingers in there all the way up to the knuckles on my hand. I don't know that there is really anything else I can do unless I notched the brackets which I would rather not do. I don't think you will really see it when the vehicle is level instead of one side up on ramps.

 

[tbisaacs]

I put a floor jack under mine with everything loose and set the gap that way.

 

[TeCKis300]

Is the 3/8" in the instructions referencing the LC side skirts? Rather than the modified LX side steps?

Hard to tell exactly in pictures, but that gap looks reasonable to me.

 

[Ratchey]

I put a floor jack under mine with everything loose and set the gap that way.

The sliders aren't going any higher. They are jammed up against the bolts on the frame.

Is the 3/8" in the instructions referencing the LC side skirts? Rather than the modified LX side steps?

Hard to tell exactly in pictures, but that gap looks reasonable to me.

I am sure it is since they recommend that you use the LC rockers. That is why I was asking for people who have used the LX steps to see if they had the same gap..
It may just be the way they are taking pics and you can't really see the gap.
I feel they could go a full 1/2" higher and still not make contact under full flex (and make up for the "bubble skids"}, but maybe Slee is just erroring on the side of caution.
I will see if I have the same issue tomorrow when I do the drivers side.

 

[Ratchey]

After re-re-reading a few threads, I found one where Slee said there should be a 3/4" gap between the slider and the pinch weld, and that is about where mine is. Eventually when things settle down in the world, I will get some LC panels ordered up and do this right.

 

[grinchy]

Looks good to Me. You aren’t losing additional ground clearance and makes a better step to have some space in there

 

[Ratchey]

Drivers side was even worse in the front. The back was where I thought it should be but I had to lower it as far down as it would go just to try to match the front. Almost a full inch gap on the drivers side.
Here are some pics of the finished product. Not a fan of the way the cut steps look so will definitely replace with LC rocker panels some day.

 

[Ratchey]

Also thought I would post a few pics of the drivers side main brackets. You cannot tell from the instructions which is which, so thought this might help someone at some point.

 

[Ratchey]

Mounted on drivers side slider

 

[TeCKis300]

Is there any adjustability on the frame end of the mounts?

 

[RiDE]

Looks good!

shameless plug- I've got a brand new set of SLEE LX570 sliders and AHC skids in the packaging $1500 picked up in Portland, OR. Paid $1715 shipped a few months ago. Brand new in the original crate. Haven't even unwrapped them.

 

[Ratchey]

Is there any adjustability on the from end of the mounts?

Not really. These are the primary mounts. There is some front to back adjustability but nothing really up and down. Maybe an 1/8" at most. I think if you did have adjustability, the first time you smacked down on them it would dis-lodge them.

 

[TeCKis300]

Not really. These are the primary mounts. There is some front to back adjustability but nothing really up and down. Maybe an 1/8" at most. I think if you did have adjustability, the first time you smacked down on them it would dis-lodge them.

View attachment 2293227

Gotcha.

How much more do you want to lift it? I get there's a desire for it up tight and close, but having some gap doesn't look out of place and keeps shoes from kicking the molding.

I know you shouldn't have to do this, but perhaps you can shim the lower mount of the two you highlighted, between the bracket and frame? As the bracket is projected out, it would have the effect of lifting the steps slightly.

 

[Ratchey]

Gotcha.

How much more do you want to lift it? I get there's a desire for it up tight and close, but having some gap doesn't look out of place and keeps shoes from kicking the molding.

I know you shouldn't have to do this, but perhaps you can shim the lower mount of the two you highlighted, between the bracket and frame? As the bracket is projected out, it would have the effect of lifting the steps slightly.

I think it is OK for now. I imagine it will look better once I put the LC panels on. But that is a good idea if there is still to big of a gap at that point.