Longfields (1 Viewer)

[Sonofaskipper]

So I’m in the midst of a knuckle rebuild, and I’m replacing my birfs with Longfields. I unwrapped the package today and discovered the units were packed with a red grease. I was under the impression that birfs were supposed to be packed with a moly based grease. This makes sense, as the knuckles are packed in a moly based grease. Anyone have experience with Longfields? Anyone repacked, or left them as is? I don’t want to have to go back in to fix something once I’ve buttoned everything back up. TIA.

 

[Sonofaskipper]

I realized I’ve been thinking about this all wrong. I’m going to find some Redline synthetic, moly fortified grease or an equivalent, and ditch the Palladium I’ve been saving for this job. I have neither the time, nor the desire to disassemble brand new birfs.

 

[Tools R Us]

Or, simply leave the grease in the birf, pack the knuckle with what you have and drive happy. If you want to change it, use a grease needle on the gun, work it next to a ball into the back part of the birf, pump until new dark grease comes out. This will flush most of it out.

 

[ajordan1975]

I've always ran red grease in my mini trucks without issue.

 

[Sonofaskipper]

Right on. I was concerned about the compatibility of a synthetic and a mineral based grease mixing together in the knuckle. I just got some Valvoline fully synthetic, moly fortified grease. Going to go out and reassemble everything tonight after the kids are in bed. Appreciate the input guys. It’s good to know that I may be overthinking things a bit. Everything came apart really well. I’m hoping reassembly goes as smooth.

 

[Sonofaskipper]

So I’ve completed my front end rebuild, but haven’t had a chance to test run. I’m at work for a month right now, and I’ve got plenty of time to worry whether or not I made any mistakes on this project. I’ve got a question about grease volume in the knuckles. If they’re indeed low, can I just use the zero on the end of the Longfield to pump more grease into the knuckle? Or am I better off popping the plug on the housing?

 

[BlueCruiser84]

So I’ve completed my front end rebuild, but haven’t had a chance to test run. I’m at work for a month right now, and I’ve got plenty of time to worry whether or not I made any mistakes on this project. I’ve got a question about grease volume in the knuckles. If they’re indeed low, can I just use the zero on the end of the Longfield to pump more grease into the knuckle? Or am I better off popping the plug on the housing?

Either would be fine.

 

[BILT4ME]

You can pump i into the birf from the end of the Longfield, however, as you pump grease in, the displaced air needs to go someplace. As it pressurizes the knuckle ball, the air would try and escape out through the knuckle ball seal, the wheel bearing seal, or the inner axle seal.

Make sure you pull the plug out of the top of the knuckle housing when you start pumping in grease in order to relieve the pressure. If you're only going to do 3-4 pumps, probably no big deal. If you're going to do 50 pumps, better remove the plug.

 

[Sonofaskipper]

You can pump i into the birf from the end of the Longfield, however, as you pump grease in, the displaced air needs to go someplace. As it pressurizes the knuckle ball, the air would try and escape out through the knuckle ball seal, the wheel bearing seal, or the inner axle seal.

Make sure you pull the plug out of the top of the knuckle housing when you start pumping in grease in order to relieve the pressure. If you're only going to do 3-4 pumps, probably no big deal. If you're going to do 50 pumps, better remove the plug.

When I think about it, I’d want to know what the level is prior to adding any grease, so I’d need to pop the plug anyway. I’m more concerned about the housing than the joint at this point anyway. I used about 1.5 tubes of moly on the housing alone. I feel like that’s in line with FAQ write up. Packed plenty in behind the joint, and then sent the axle home. Packed more in around the stub, splines, and sealed up with the spindle. Like I said, plenty of time to worry about potential mistakes out here on the tug boat.

 

[BlueCruiser84]

When I think about it, I’d want to know what the level is prior to adding any grease, so I’d need to pop the plug anyway. I’m more concerned about the housing than the joint at this point anyway. I used about 1.5 tubes of moly on the housing alone. I feel like that’s in line with FAQ write up. Packed plenty in behind the joint, and then sent the axle home. Packed more in around the stub, splines, and sealed up with the spindle. Like I said, plenty of time to worry about potential mistakes out here on the tug boat.

I’d say that’s plenty of grease.

 

[toyota guy]

every time i bought longfields they came with redline grease in them, thats probably the redline synthetic with moly.

 

[bigredmachine]

When I think about it, I’d want to know what the level is prior to adding any grease, so I’d need to pop the plug anyway. I’m more concerned about the housing than the joint at this point anyway. I used about 1.5 tubes of moly on the housing alone. I feel like that’s in line with FAQ write up. Packed plenty in behind the joint, and then sent the axle home. Packed more in around the stub, splines, and sealed up with the spindle. Like I said, plenty of time to worry about potential mistakes out here on the tug boat.

1.5 tubes is about correct, its not like it has to be dead on balls accurate, ya just need grease in there. when you get home and drive the truck check and see where the grease is on the knuckle balls, you want it about 2/3 -3/4 full. after making some turns there should be some grease that didn't get totally wiped away and that's roughly what the grease level is in the knuckle