Locker not engaging (1 Viewer)

[OREGON85]

I'm sure that somewhere there is a thread or a post that answers my question, but I couldn't find it. Where do I start to diagnose a factory e-locker that doesn't engage? The center and front engage, but the rear won't.

Thank you for any advice on what to check first!

 

[REKCUT]

There are numerous threads on this subject and you can more specifically search once you narrow down the problem more than they don't engage. Start search and options by "excercising locker" which involves doing figure 8's in a large lot. At this point not enough info or effort on your part to help with diagnosis of problem which could be anything form light to switch to connection to broken part.

Sometimes locker works but light doesn't
Lockers don't like dirty gear oil
connections get dirty
connectors need cleaning

Search some more and give us more info

 

[COYS]

My front wouldn’t lock.

Now cleaned up with new seals it locks.

 

[rolliges]

Seals? I'm not yet familiar, where are the seals? part number? Also, what grease did you use to re-lube the gears?

 

[Tools R Us]

I'm sure that somewhere there is a thread or a post that answers my question, but I couldn't find it. Where do I start to diagnose a factory e-locker that doesn't engage? The center and front engage, but the rear won't.

Thank you for any advice on what to check first!

How are you testing it? The rear only has 5 teeth, so can take up to 1/5 of a turn of differential action to lock, can make it hard to lock when not needed. The easiest way is to jack up the rear axle and turn a tire.

 

[OREGON85]

I drove around for at least 20 minutes with the switch for both lockers on. The front locked within 20 yards, but the back stayed open. I was in snow, so it was easy to confirm that the lights on the dash are accurate. For some reason I thought the front wouldn’t lock until the rear did, but that was clearly not the case. The differential does have fresh gear oil. Are there tests that would allow me to differentiate between electical issues and mechanical issues?

 

[Tools R Us]

When it is selected, does the actuator motor run?

 

[OREGON85]

When I select either the front or rear sitting in the garage I don't hear any sounds. When I am out of the garage I can get the front to lock pretty quickly, but the rear doesn't. This is going by the obvious lack of locking in the rear and the light in the dash.

 

[Chris Wilcox]

These lockers have quite a coarse dog clutch in them so they rarely lock right away without some differential wheel movement. Also you can't be going too fast or the speed signal will disable engagement i believe. If driving slowly around on a loose surface like gravel turning left to right quite a bit won't lock the rear but the light flashes then I would jack up the back end on good jack stands and wheel chock the front end.. Don't turn the engine on but do put the key to the on position and transmission in park. E-Brake released. Then try to engage the rear locker only. With the light flashing go and turn one wheel while the other side isn't moving. It should lock after 1/4 turn or so. If it doesn't you are all set up to pull things apart and figure out why. From there you'd pull the harness and see if the signals get that far because some people have had exhaust burn their wires. Or if you have confidence in the wiring just pull the actuator and search for threads on how to test it. Be forewarned though, if you just tear everything down to bits you'll have a harder time timing the actuator motor when you put it back together so do the research first.

 

[Bmp1]

Do the simple thing first. Tap the actuator with a hammer. Get on a large surface that isn’t paved or concrete. Go very slow and do figure 8’s. You don’t need to turn the steering wheel lock to lock. Engage the rear locker and go 50-60 ft or so. Don’t keep riding around with the switch on. If it didn’t go in turn the locker off get out and tap the actuator. Try it again. Try that 8-10 times before you open things up.

 

[studawg]

Heat helps this process. If you were in deep snow, I imagine it was cold and that could gum things up. I got a center diff lock to engage and disengage by putting a space heater under it for a while, this was on a 200, but the problem was just the grease in the mechanism gumming up. Id put the whole truck on jack stands and put a space heater under it and try working it then. Then once it locks, engage and disengage multiple times to exercise it and that should help it in the future. I think its worth a shot before you start opening things up.

 

[Seth_O]

Heres my rule for working on the truck: start with the easy and cheap stuff. Then move along.

It doesnt matter how stupid it seems, or unlikely, start with the easy and cheap solutions.

Driving in figure 8's; heating it up, banging on it with a hammer, all free and pretty fast.

In my case it was burnt wiring; once replaced it worked great. I wouldn't jump to an R&R until I'd tried everything external. Then if NONE of those things fix it: do your research, get the parts you'll need in advance, block off your calendar and dive in.

Good luck.

 

[OREGON85]

How would I test to see if it is getting power?

Is there a likely spot to check for burnt wiring?

 

[Seth_O]

Crawl underneath the truck to see the connector on the actuator and follow it back. That's the only way to be sure you've checked it all thoroughly.

Open disclosure: mine was the front locker that wouldn't engage.