Locked diffs in high range?

[boydmick]

sometimes the gearbox shifter is in N but there's no green light over the N symbol on the dash.

If you don't have the green N, what symbol has a light? Have you ever seen the N light up? Maybe the bulb is burnt out.

 

[LandyLover]

My F/R diffs unlock at highway speeds.

You can not shift from H to L or vice versa on the fly. You'd have to drive it like it was stolen to even want to try.

Having the rear locked in the snow is fun but not recommended for street travel, in my opinion. You can do a quick 180 like a vette.

Cheers

 

[prossett]

If your front hubs aren't really locked, then your front driveshaft won't be turning, and the grinding will be coming from the xfer case, not the hubs themselves.

I see, so it could be difficulty engaging the hubs. Never liked auto hubs since I had my previous truck's go on me and had to motor out in 2WD - swapped in manual hubs and never looked back. The symptoms were different, though - they would slip out of 4WD with loud clunks! EDIT: but wait - the hubs are already engaged since I was in 4HI before, and the grinding is only when moving down to LO...

boydmick, the green N light on the dash comes on randomly, so the bulb's OK. All the other dash lights are fine. If I push the gearbox lever up a bit when in N, the light will sometimes come on. So that needs adjusting, but could that affect the t-case?

IOW, is there a check that prevents shifting to LO if it figures the gearbox lever is not in N?

BHMcruiser, duly noted, thanks - in fact I had been running in HI for some time before shifting into LO, so there could have been some wind-up. Also, the PO never went in 4WD, let alone LO, so a bit of gentle rocking might help.

When I first tested the truck, there was no grind, slipped right in - but I had not driven around in HI first...

MoGas, yeah, P or N the t-case shouldn't really care, unless it's on an incline and P is braking the truck. I had the same grind in P.

LandyLover, I've never had a truck that I tried shift to LO while moving, but DOC says he does it alright so I guess it's possible. I've heard of the old Landies that had this double-clutch trick for doing that so you might want to check that out.

 

[mutazs]

Hi PR
I know it might sound crazy, grease the niples of the driveshaft and then check the light agian, the N light and D light used to blink alot but after i greased the niplles they were fine.
As for the rear locker try going into gravel ground and slowly turn in circles untill they lock
Mutaz

 

[mutazs]

please check http://www.lcool.org/technical/80_series/auto.html

 

[prossett]

Hi PR
I know it might sound crazy, grease the niples of the driveshaft and then check the light agian, the N light and D light used to blink alot but after i greased the niplles they were fine.

Thanks, mutazs - playing with the nipples first really did give me the green light - but it wasn't my car!

Today gave it a more determined test, and it must have been the wind-up; first time went in smooth, second time I tried winding it up in 4HI first and got the grinding noise. I also found that slamming it into LO instead of being all gentle is the way she likes it!

p8nt, in a desperate attempt to reduce the hijack factor, I tried the locker in HI at speed, and it did not unlock until I told it to.

 

[p8nt]

no worries pro, the whole locked high range thing was more for curiosity than anything else Let the information flow as it will!