Location of power door lock relay? (1 Viewer)

[wtgriz]

Does anyone know the location of the power door lock relay in a 2000 LC? I'm talking about the small, 5 prong, plug-in type brown/black color relay.

I've managed to compile a long list of places that it isn't, like the main relay box under the hood; driver or passenger kick panels; or inside the driver or passenger front doors. So before I add to this list further, it occured to me to ask if anyone had ever managed to find it

 

[The Mack]

On my 1998 LC, the doors locking is controlled by a Keyless Entry Computer (orange in color) located behind the drivers side lower dash panel. I do not recall any other relays for door lock.

The dealer tech told me this when I was trouble shooting slow to no locking on drivers door.

 

[wtgriz]

Here is a photo of the relay I'm talking about. It is listed at RockAuto and several other sites as a "door lock relay". I bought mine at NAPA. It's just that nobody seems to be able to tell me where it is.

 

[wtgriz]

Not sure why the photo doesn't display but if you click on the icon it opens up the RockAuto page with the photo.

 

[wtgriz]

Here is a link to another thread I started on this issue:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/604536-some-door-lock-advice-please.html

 

[re_guderian]

cowl-side JB, Left Side Kick Panel, looks like the back side. My scanner's jacked. I'll put a scan up shortly...

 

[wtgriz]

Great! Thanks for the help and I can't wait to see the scan.

 

[re_guderian]

got it working...

 

[Traverse Cruiser]

Is there a certain issue you are trying to diagnose? I purchased a new to me 1999 100 series a few months ago and was having door lock issues. Door locks would not respond properly to the keyless or other power door lock switches especially when hot. I searched the threads and zeroed in on the notorious door lock actuator problem. There are many that have had similar problems and there is a very easy and VERY inexpensive way to take care of the issue if that is what it turns out to be. Do a search for lock actuators. I purchased 6 from John so I had an extra and changed them out using the instructions from the thread everything now works perfectly. I would look into this first as I wasted a lot of time searching the same as you are. To answer you direct question it is my understanding the location is under the left hand side of driver side dash.

 

[Traverse Cruiser]

By the way I have read your r thread. I had exactlly the same circumstances of all not working at the same time.

 

[wtgriz]

Okay, here is the latest in this saga – Thanks to input from re-guderian and RobRed, I located and removed the junction box and replaced all three door lock relays (all the same part). Worst job that I’ve ever undertaken by far. At 6’-2” & 230, I’m not exactly built for working in this location so after spending about 3 hours on the removal, twisted up like a pretzel and thinking I might have to go to the hospital, I paid a mechanic buddy to come over and finish the job which only took him an hour - show-off.

The relays were not the problem. Sorry mikgrail3, I was hoping that this was it too, especially since I had just spent $75 on replacing what turned out to be perfectly good parts. All of the locks quit working after 2 or 3 cycles – except one. Now for some good news, even though it involves admitting something that makes me look like an idiot.

I started on this adventure 2 months ago thinking that I had the well documented actuator problem that so many have written about. I even purchased new actuators and replaced the one in the passenger front door. This was a big job in which I managed to break the clip off of a $45 door lock clip wiring harness while in the middle of, so I had to wait a week for a replacement harness before I had it totally finished and back together. It was about 15 minutes before the wife and kids were to take off on a 4,000 mile road trip in the truck that finished the actuator replacement. I made sure that the new actuator worked the lock, but apparently I was so relieved that I had managed to get everything back together in time for their trip that I guess I didn’t cycle the locks several times to see if this one acted differently. In the mean time, while the truck was gone for 2 weeks, I kept reading posts and convinced myself that it was very unlikely that my problem was with the actuators because the locks in my vehicle stopped working on all of the doors at the same time after cycling the locks 2 or 3 times. How could 5 independent motors all quit working at the same time? There had to be a central cause, right? Even my mechanic agreed and suggested a relay as the likely root cause.

So, imagine how dumb I felt sitting there testing the locks after replacing the relays when all of the locks quit working after 2 or 3 cycles, just like always, except the front passenger door that I had replaced the actuator in 3 weeks ago. I must have cycled the locks 10 or 15 times and this one door worked perfectly every time. So, while it still doesn’t make any sense to me that all of the actuators started failing at the same time, I’m now going to replace the actuator in another door and then re-test. If that door also works after several cycles then I’ll finish the rest of them. I’m hopeful that now that I’ve done one that I can do the rest without breaking any other parts. I’ll post back after the 2nd door is finished. Enjoy your chuckle at my expense and thanks again for everyone’s input.

 

[Kev UZJ100]

WT,

This exact thing happened to me yesterday, all five were starting to quit at the same time. I thought to myself, how can they all break at the same time. I was dreading another issue. I really hope it's the actuators in our case. It will be good to know its just a common problem. Looking forward to your findings with the next test. Please update the post when you find out more information. Good Luck!

Kev

 

[JaromT]

Door Unlock

I am for sure having this same problem, but it is much worse and usually only happens on doors that the sun is shining on here in the Vegas heat. I have seen people mention here that it happens more when it is hot. Is there a correlation and has anyone figured out whether each door relay needs to be changed or one central relay? This includes the back hatch!! THANKS FOR ANY HELP!

 

[jcrandall]

Is there a certain issue you are trying to diagnose? I purchased a new to me 1999 100 series a few months ago and was having door lock issues. Door locks would not respond properly to the keyless or other power door lock switches especially when hot. I searched the threads and zeroed in on the notorious door lock actuator problem. There are many that have had similar problems and there is a very easy and VERY inexpensive way to take care of the issue if that is what it turns out to be. Do a search for lock actuators. I purchased 6 from John so I had an extra and changed them out using the instructions from the thread everything now works perfectly. I would look into this first as I wasted a lot of time searching the same as you are. To answer you direct question it is my understanding the location is under the left hand side of driver side dash.

X2
As definitely as can be over the interwebs, this be an actuator, not a relay problem.
It's actually fun to replace these- first thing I ever did myself of any significance to the LX

Sent from my iPad using IH8MUD

 

[lexi4darin]

wtgriz-

Please test your door lock actuator replacement in another door.

If this test doesn't give you good results, you may still have a problem with the body control module or the actual fuse box. Enjoy and keep us posted.

dp

 

[wtgriz]

Sorry for the delay in response, today is the first chance I’ve had to get back to this problem. I just finished replacing the actuator motor in the driver’s door and it works perfectly, just like the passenger front door that I replaced earlier. After I replaced the one today I sat in the car and cycled the locks 10 – 15 times. The two doors that have the new actuator motors in them worked every time while the others stopped working after 2 or 3 cycles. I repeated this after about 10 minutes with the same result. I’m going to try and finish the rear doors and hatch this weekend but the problem I have is almost certainly the individual actuators, as unlikely as that seemed when they were all displaying the same problem. I’ll do a final post after I finish the rest of them.

 

[Pegasus dale]

Okay, here is the latest in this saga – Thanks to input from re-guderian and RobRed, I located and removed the junction box and replaced all three door lock relays (all the same part). Worst job that I’ve ever undertaken by far. At 6’-2” & 230, I’m not exactly built for working in this location so after spending about 3 hours on the removal, twisted up like a pretzel and thinking I might have to go to the hospital, I paid a mechanic buddy to come over and finish the job which only took him an hour - show-off.

The relays were not the problem. Sorry mikgrail3, I was hoping that this was it too, especially since I had just spent $75 on replacing what turned out to be perfectly good parts. All of the locks quit working after 2 or 3 cycles – except one. Now for some good news, even though it involves admitting something that makes me look like an idiot.

I started on this adventure 2 months ago thinking that I had the well documented actuator problem that so many have written about. I even purchased new actuators and replaced the one in the passenger front door. This was a big job in which I managed to break the clip off of a $45 door lock clip wiring harness while in the middle of, so I had to wait a week for a replacement harness before I had it totally finished and back together. It was about 15 minutes before the wife and kids were to take off on a 4,000 mile road trip in the truck that finished the actuator replacement. I made sure that the new actuator worked the lock, but apparently I was so relieved that I had managed to get everything back together in time for their trip that I guess I didn’t cycle the locks several times to see if this one acted differently. In the mean time, while the truck was gone for 2 weeks, I kept reading posts and convinced myself that it was very unlikely that my problem was with the actuators because the locks in my vehicle stopped working on all of the doors at the same time after cycling the locks 2 or 3 times. How could 5 independent motors all quit working at the same time? There had to be a central cause, right? Even my mechanic agreed and suggested a relay as the likely root cause.

So, imagine how dumb I felt sitting there testing the locks after replacing the relays when all of the locks quit working after 2 or 3 cycles, just like always, except the front passenger door that I had replaced the actuator in 3 weeks ago. I must have cycled the locks 10 or 15 times and this one door worked perfectly every time. So, while it still doesn’t make any sense to me that all of the actuators started failing at the same time, I’m now going to replace the actuator in another door and then re-test. If that door also works after several cycles then I’ll finish the rest of them. I’m hopeful that now that I’ve done one that I can do the rest without breaking any other parts. I’ll post back after the 2nd door is finished. Enjoy your chuckle at my expense and thanks again for everyone’s input.

Hey can I ask how the hell did you pull this out ??? I need to get to the lock/unlock relays . The pic re-guderian posted looks like mine but I'm thinking that's the side you can't see ( fuse box on other side )
Anyway I've removed glovebox and ECU (still plugged in )
Removed bottom but
Removed one top nut but can see another one at top near firewall ( and no hope of reaching it )
Does the heater have to come out

Please help

 

[Pegasus dale]

Oops 2012 anyone still about

 

[LBridges]

Hey can I ask how the hell did you pull this out ??? I need to get to the lock/unlock relays . The pic re-guderian posted looks like mine but I'm thinking that's the side you can't see ( fuse box on other side )
Anyway I've removed glovebox and ECU (still plugged in )
Removed bottom but
Removed one top nut but can see another one at top near firewall ( and no hope of reaching it )
Does the heater have to come out

Please help

I'd like to help, but I'm confused. His pic is the block on the driver's side but you are addressing glove box removal and ECUs behind it? Are you in a RHD location?

 

[wtgriz]

Hey can I ask how the hell did you pull this out ??? I need to get to the lock/unlock relays . The pic re-guderian posted looks like mine but I'm thinking that's the side you can't see ( fuse box on other side )
Anyway I've removed glovebox and ECU (still plugged in )
Removed bottom but
Removed one top nut but can see another one at top near firewall ( and no hope of reaching it )
Does the heater have to come out

Please help

On a North American LHD vehicle, the junction box with the door lock relays is on the left side and the relays are on the back, or inside, of the box. Aside from its inconvenient location, the most difficult part of removal is due to the amount of wiring running to/from the box and how tight the wiring is. Not much slack to move the box around. As I said in my original post, I managed to get to the relays but ended up having to pay and more experienced, and smaller, mechanic to put things back together and in the end, the relays were not the problem with my locks.