Kzj70 transfer case problems (1 Viewer)

[Guzman]

So, i have a problem...
When i go out of 4wd it seems that it does not go all the way out. The lamp says im out but if i turn and give it some throttle a clonking noise is coming from the transfer case.
i have taken apart the diaphram things and changed the rubber diaphram. I also put it in 2wdmanually when i had it apart.
Started her up and tried it in 2wd first. Same problem. I can go into 4wd, no problem. I can hear it go out of 4wd, but i guess not all tve way. Any tips?

 

[OGBeno]

Bad position indicator switch. Most likely needs to be changed out.

 

[clintnz]

Try switching it manually by swapping each vacuum line direct to vacuum & bypassing the vacuum solenoids (up on the firewall on my LJ71) If that checks out make sure the vacuum solenoids are getting a signal at the right time.

It could be the 4wd control computer crapping out. I had the same thing recently - not changing out of 4wd intermittently. I ended up rewiring through a changeover relay - I got rid of the electric hubs a long time ago so didn't really need the computer.

Cheers
Clint

 

[Guzman]

Bad position indicator switch. Most likely needs to be changed out.

Thanks for the tip! I will try it out!

 

[Guzman]

Try switching it manually by swapping each vacuum line direct to vacuum & bypassing the vacuum solenoids (up on the firewall on my LJ71) If that checks out make sure the vacuum solenoids are getting a signal at the right time.

It could be the 4wd control computer crapping out. I had the same thing recently - not changing out of 4wd intermittently. I ended up rewiring through a changeover relay - I got rid of the electric hubs a long time ago so didn't really need the computer.

Cheers
Clint

Thanks for the response!
New info. I hoisted up the vehicle. Everything seems to work fine when up in the air. Engaging and disengaging 4wd.
The vacuum seems to work.
Is it possible that the indicator switch is bad anyway?

Where is this 4wd computer located, if I have one? I´m running HDJ80 hubs in the front, so no electrical hubs.

 

[clintnz]

Thanks for the response!
New info. I hoisted up the vehicle. Everything seems to work fine when up in the air. Engaging and disengaging 4wd.
The vacuum seems to work.
Is it possible that the indicator switch is bad anyway?

Where is this 4wd computer located, if I have one? I´m running HDJ80 hubs in the front, so no electrical hubs.

I think you can get to the plug for the indicator switch easily enough underneath so it wouldn't be difficult to put a multimeter on it while shifting & check it's working properly. If you leave the hubs out you can try to spin the front driveshaft by hand to check if 4wd is engaged at the t-case or not.

My 4wd computer was a ~100mm x 100mm x 25mm gray steel box up under the dash near the steering column but your LHD KZJ may be different. - Mine was clearly labelled '4wd computer' or similar.

Keep your ears tuned for any more funny noises when shifting out of 4wd, when mine first did this it was only sometimes, then it got more common.

Cheers
Clint

 

[graysworld]

Hi Clint, How did you wire the relay? and bypass the computer? I have changed to manual hubs so could do the same. What is a change over relay?

Graeme

 

[clintnz]

Hi Graeme

The changeover relay supplies power to either the 4wd or 2wd vacuum solenoid. You can figure out which solenoid is which by connecting a vacuum line to just one & seeing if 4wd is engaged or not. (give the truck a little roll back & forth to make sure it can throw in) If you're a total n00b to automotive wiring this is a relatively advanced job, but if you've wired in a relay before you should be able to work it out.

The relays are a common item, you can see the circuit on this one. You can also get a fused version if you don't have a fuse elsewhere in the circuit.

So pin 87A goes to the 2wd vac solenoid, pin 87 is the 4wd vac solenoid. 30 is IGN power. 86 is earth. 85 is an IGN power feed switched by the existing 4wd switch.

You will likely need to take at least some of the dash out to get to the wiring at the back of the 4wd switch & run wires through the firewall. If you want to take the loom apart a little you may be able to re-use some of the existing wiring to make it a tidy job. Unless you do some extra wiring this does take away the automatic switching into 4wd when you go into low range. I put the relay in a mounting block down by the power outlet box.

I can't remember if I had to rewire anything for the 4wd light to work correctly, possibly did. Been doing some other wiring recently so my brain is a mess of multicoloured spaghetti. Your KZJ will likely be a little different to my LJ too so approach the job with brain engaged.

Cheers
Clint

 

[Zorlac]

The best solution, go manual

LONG OVERDUE transfer vacuum valve conversion writeup

Converting an FJ62’s 4WD Vacuum Shift from Electric to Manual By Spook50 After 18 years and 217K miles, the electric solenoids that control my transfer case’s ability to shift into (and out of) 4WD had finally failed. Any electrical part will do this eventually, so why pay $300-$400 for a new...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[graysworld]

Thanks for the replies, much appreciated. Have to rebuild the transfercase first

Graeme

 

[graysworld]

A little write up on rebuilding the transfer case. Firstly, I must Thank Otramms YouTube channel for a very informative rebuild video. OTRAMM VIDEO. Although I have an automatic gearbox it is almost the same procedure. Along with the workshop manual this was a great help. I did the job in-situ as working alone on my drive I would not have been able to remove both gearboxes. I bought a rebuild kit from Terrain Tamer. Very good service. I bought some assembly Goo which helps to lubricate everything during start up. It is also good for sticking the outer thrust washer in place whilst fitting the outer casing. One mistake I did make was not putting the clamp on the low-high selector before putting the outer casing on. This resulted in it falling inside and me having to remove the case and refitting. Fitting of the said casing is as Otramm say the only fiddly bit. It is awkward working under the car, but I drove it up on ramps at the front and jacked it up and supported the rear on chassis stands. Bearings from the gearbox input shaft and the rear output shaft need to be pressed off and on. The only bearings not in the Terrain Tamer kit are the split needle roller bearings inside the output shaft. These are not really needed as they do virtually no work. I now need to replace the prop shaft universal joints and refit. Also sort out the exhaust puzzle! As has been mentioned it is a real pain. I managed to take it off, but I cannot get it back on. I am going to cut it and fabricate a joint to overcome the poor design. I will post a photo when I have finished.