KDSS Bleed to repair? (1 Viewer)

[1oldnoob]

Shocks were found to be leaking on post-purchase inspection so CarMax replaced under warranty. Looks like CarMax Tech or whomever the sent this to, went with ugga-dugga x 1000 instead of torque specs when changing out shocks. This was 2 years ago. I had heard some rattling recently while driving. When I took it in for oil change, First image is passenger side, second image driver. The Toy/Lex shop is take it to says the KDSS system needs to be bled to replace the Stabilizer brackets and bushings. They couldn't do it because that system is a expensive and they don't have one. They suggested another Toy/Lex indi shop and after checking with them, they don't have one either. The Mechanic I take it to has been really good to me, but I am doubting the requirement for a special tool. Anyone have an idea? I will take it to the dealer if I need to but want to avoid it because it is across town.

 

[Jstawgn]

The fixed one are easy to replace. No bleed needed. Looks like you are missing the bottom half of the fixed bracket. I believe you can buy it separately from Lexus/toyota.

 

[re_guderian]

Not sure why you'd need new "brackets". Bushings, sure, but brackets?

 

[Bang Bang]

Not sure why you'd need new "brackets". Bushings, sure, but brackets?

Guessing the bolts broke and he lost the bottom half of the passenger side bracket.

 

[1oldnoob]

Bolts broke on pax side and I have the lower half bracket. It fell out when they lowered the splash guard. Sounds like need to bust the rust on the pax side, get new bushings, bolts and to find the torque specs. Thanks for the advice y'all.

 

[re_guderian]

Rust...:shudder:

My 80 series was a PA/MD/NoVA baby. Every. Single. Job. was a chore. Never again, as long as I'm doing the work on the rig. However, my son in law is a Ford Master Tech, and he uses an induction gun (not cheap) on rusty bolts.

 

[drowzyGX]

Can’t say whether or not you need the system bled, but can confirm it absolutely requires a very expensive system to do it right.

Had a renowned Landcruiser shop, a highly rated Indy lexus shop, and a dealer around Atlanta confirm that. I had some terrible post lift lean, and was exploring my options. Full drain and re-fill is expensive.

You may find some posts about folks draining and bleeding at home, but I doubt any shop is going to drain and fill kdss with a home brew solution.

 

[OllieChristopher]

Rust...:shudder:

My 80 series was a PA/MD/NoVA baby. Every. Single. Job. was a chore. Never again, as long as I'm doing the work on the rig. However, my son in law is a Ford Master Tech, and he uses an induction gun (not cheap) on rusty bolts.

If you don't want to spring for the price of an induction gun then a cheap propane torch and thermal clay is just as effective. Working on rust belt vehicles is a real PITA!!

 

[BPGX460]

Had this happen on my gx...drove around for a couple days like your picture, but I think I had the release valves to "open"...had a shop weld a nut on the broken bolts, and torched it until they were able to remove them...my lift kit came with spacers and new bolts which a slathered with a 1lb of anti seize....torque spec is pretty low on these I think around 30ftlbs...no issues since

 

[TFAST]

Here's the KDSS bleeding procedure. Requires a high pressure pump. If you want some more insight on how to DIY service KDSS, send DrKDSS a message (hes the guy making the kdss switches).

 

[cgs2k2]

you shouldnt need to bleed the system from what i can tell. you can release the valves to get any articulation needed and then simply remove the bolts, get the missing bracket, retorque to spec. bleeding may be "better" way to handle, but dont think you need to (unless i'm missing something)

the shop that installed my life busted one of those bolts off just like that. i drilled it out and put a bolt/nut combo on there. has held up fine. but i am also a degenerate POS