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- #201
Before I could take the steering column out, had to remove the accelerator pedal and disconnect the 3 column electrical connectors.
JD Cruiser's 1981 BJ42 Body Repair & Restoration
- Thread starter JDCruiser
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- Thread starter
- #202
Now time to take the column out.... The outer ring bolts soaked with PB blaster for a couple of nights and they loosened right off, not heat required. The 2 main clamp bolts to the IP also had not issue in coming out. Column looks to be in decent shape, likely just needing a cleanup and lube job. Will replace all hardware with stainless for anything on the exterior.
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- #203
Accelerator Cable Removal
Next up was removal of the accelerator cable. It was already disconnected from the pedal end when I took the pedal off to give a clear removal line for the steering column. The cable eye on the throttle body freed up pretty easy, just had take all the slack towards the engine side, then flip the throttle lever all the way to the driver side to position the slot so I could take the eye out with a set of pliers. Then the cable slide out through firewall.
Next up was removal of the accelerator cable. It was already disconnected from the pedal end when I took the pedal off to give a clear removal line for the steering column. The cable eye on the throttle body freed up pretty easy, just had take all the slack towards the engine side, then flip the throttle lever all the way to the driver side to position the slot so I could take the eye out with a set of pliers. Then the cable slide out through firewall.
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- #204
Combi Meter Removal
In order to get better access to remove the brake and clutch pedals as well as the D Side windshield heater duct, I figured taking out the combi meter would give some hand and wiggle room. It came out pretty good, the top screws remove and then it rotates towards you as there are L shaped clips on the bottom side that engage to the Lower edge of the IP and sort of act like a hinge. I had to take some slack in the speed cable towards the firewall and push through the grommet so that the combi meter could rotate. You can only rotate so far before the speed connect interfers with the top part of the opening for the combimeter. That was tricky to get the speed connector disconnected but it eventually came off. Connectors on the combimeter are in good shape.
In order to get better access to remove the brake and clutch pedals as well as the D Side windshield heater duct, I figured taking out the combi meter would give some hand and wiggle room. It came out pretty good, the top screws remove and then it rotates towards you as there are L shaped clips on the bottom side that engage to the Lower edge of the IP and sort of act like a hinge. I had to take some slack in the speed cable towards the firewall and push through the grommet so that the combi meter could rotate. You can only rotate so far before the speed connect interfers with the top part of the opening for the combimeter. That was tricky to get the speed connector disconnected but it eventually came off. Connectors on the combimeter are in good shape.
I've been hunting those accelerator pedal parts and hand throttle setup for a couple years , they just do not come up for sale in the US...
Nice writeup , btw...
Sarge
Nice writeup , btw...
Sarge
Hey JD, the tear down is really coming along. If you think the speedo cable was fun to get off, wait till you plug it back in!! I still owe you a visit and hope to make it out shortly in my 40...I'll let you take it for drive to help keep you motivated...
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- #207
Hey Rosey.... Good to hear from you... Yep... the wife is letting me (LOL) get some focused time at it over the last couple of weeks.... I told her to imagine getting half her garage back some day, the sooner I get at the resto, the sooner that can happen.... Haha, little does she know, once the garage is turned over to a cruiser, it never comes back!!!
On the weekend, took out the Brake and Clutch pedals along with their respective master cylinders so I figure I am just a few weeks away from having a tub removal ceremony, just gotta finish the tear down of the IP, build a wooden frame stand for the tub to sit on and make some space for her to sit in the garage.... Will let you know and if you are free, you can join me for a couple pops and have a look at the her with the tub off....
Thanks for the offer on the 40 demo ride, will definitely take you up on that one... won't have the diesel rumble that mine does but hey, will be kick ass.... Bet you excited to be so close to having it on the road eh!
Cheers!
On the weekend, took out the Brake and Clutch pedals along with their respective master cylinders so I figure I am just a few weeks away from having a tub removal ceremony, just gotta finish the tear down of the IP, build a wooden frame stand for the tub to sit on and make some space for her to sit in the garage.... Will let you know and if you are free, you can join me for a couple pops and have a look at the her with the tub off....
Thanks for the offer on the 40 demo ride, will definitely take you up on that one... won't have the diesel rumble that mine does but hey, will be kick ass.... Bet you excited to be so close to having it on the road eh!
Cheers!
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- #208
Hey Sarge,
Didn't realize thery were that rare... The hand throttle seems a bit sticky but hopefully based on what you are saying in how rare they are, I can lub it up and save it. Thanks for the kind words on the write up. Trying to capture the details so I have a good reference point to look back at when I try to get this thing back together.... but I guess also it acts as good Cruiser Porn!!! LOL..
Didn't realize thery were that rare... The hand throttle seems a bit sticky but hopefully based on what you are saying in how rare they are, I can lub it up and save it. Thanks for the kind words on the write up. Trying to capture the details so I have a good reference point to look back at when I try to get this thing back together.... but I guess also it acts as good Cruiser Porn!!! LOL..
Looking good JD, same color as mine, I wish mine had been in better shape but she will be nice when she is done and so will yours. Keep the pictures coming, I might have to pick your brain in 6 months when I put my dash back together lol.
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- #210
Cresent,
Thanks for the kind words on the restoration... Been following your repair thread as well... Yours is looking really good.
Got lots more pics (around 1500 in total so far) so this thread represents just the key ones and samples, I have lot more if you need anything specific. I have a terrible memory and very little experience with vehicle restoration, a deadly combination so want to make sure that I have what I need to put it back together.
Cheers, good luck, take care.
Thanks for the kind words on the restoration... Been following your repair thread as well... Yours is looking really good.
Got lots more pics (around 1500 in total so far) so this thread represents just the key ones and samples, I have lot more if you need anything specific. I have a terrible memory and very little experience with vehicle restoration, a deadly combination so want to make sure that I have what I need to put it back together.
Cheers, good luck, take care.
- Thread starter
- #211
Hey Wes,
Sorry for the delay on the transmission hump close ups.. Been a crazy week. Here are the pics I think you needed, let me know if you need anything else.
Sorry for the delay on the transmission hump close ups.. Been a crazy week. Here are the pics I think you needed, let me know if you need anything else.
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- #212
Clutch Pedal Removal
I wanted to gain better access to the relays and the wire harness so next up was to remove the clutch and brake pedals. I started with the clutch pedal. Was pretty straight forward, the clutch master cylinder definitely has a pretty bad leak in it because there was a lot of fluid and caked on dirt / dust on the pedal and clevis joint. The bolt came out pretty easy, hardest part was wiggling the wrench into a position to get onto the bolt head. Here are some pics of the pedal removal.
I wanted to gain better access to the relays and the wire harness so next up was to remove the clutch and brake pedals. I started with the clutch pedal. Was pretty straight forward, the clutch master cylinder definitely has a pretty bad leak in it because there was a lot of fluid and caked on dirt / dust on the pedal and clevis joint. The bolt came out pretty easy, hardest part was wiggling the wrench into a position to get onto the bolt head. Here are some pics of the pedal removal.
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- #213
Brake Pedal Removal
Next up was to remove the brake pedal. This came out with ease. Hardware all looks to be in decent condition.
Next up was to remove the brake pedal. This came out with ease. Hardware all looks to be in decent condition.
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- #214
Clutch Master Cylinder Removal
Although I could have left the master cylinders on the tub until it was off the frame, I decided, might as well now take them off, reduce the weight and free up the firewall space for WH routing / removal so figured that was the next step, clutch and brake master cylinder removal. I first attempted to unfasten the flare tube joint at the clutch master cylinder, however, all the open ended wrench was doing was rounding the flats on the flare nut. I stopped and thought for a bit, my ultimate goal was to not damage the master cylinder and thus didn't want to continue to round the flats worried that I might not be able to get the flare nut out. I knew I was going to replace all brake and clutch lines anyway, so decided it was best to cut the tubes off right at the flare nut for both sides. That way I still have the main shape and length of the tube somewhat preserved and can put a socket or box wrench on the flare nut and put some decent torque on it without fear of rounding the flats. It worked quite well, used a socket and ratchet wrench and was able to crack the flare nut without to much effort. Did the same with the flex union joint lower on the firewall. Here are some pics of the removal
Although I could have left the master cylinders on the tub until it was off the frame, I decided, might as well now take them off, reduce the weight and free up the firewall space for WH routing / removal so figured that was the next step, clutch and brake master cylinder removal. I first attempted to unfasten the flare tube joint at the clutch master cylinder, however, all the open ended wrench was doing was rounding the flats on the flare nut. I stopped and thought for a bit, my ultimate goal was to not damage the master cylinder and thus didn't want to continue to round the flats worried that I might not be able to get the flare nut out. I knew I was going to replace all brake and clutch lines anyway, so decided it was best to cut the tubes off right at the flare nut for both sides. That way I still have the main shape and length of the tube somewhat preserved and can put a socket or box wrench on the flare nut and put some decent torque on it without fear of rounding the flats. It worked quite well, used a socket and ratchet wrench and was able to crack the flare nut without to much effort. Did the same with the flex union joint lower on the firewall. Here are some pics of the removal
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- #215
Brake Master Cylinder Removal
Next up was the brake master cylinder. I used the same thinking with it and cut off the 2 brake tubes that are tie connect to union joints at the frame. Then removed the vacuum hose that runs from a hard pipe joint at the firewall to the brake booster. The flare nuts on the brake master cylinder broke free much easier than the clutch tube. The vacuum hose also came off pretty easy.
Next up was the brake master cylinder. I used the same thinking with it and cut off the 2 brake tubes that are tie connect to union joints at the frame. Then removed the vacuum hose that runs from a hard pipe joint at the firewall to the brake booster. The flare nuts on the brake master cylinder broke free much easier than the clutch tube. The vacuum hose also came off pretty easy.
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- #216
Here are some more pics of the brake master cylinder removal.
JD any thought given on how you are going to clean the rust from the bottom of your vacuum booster? Mine has the identical rust I would also like to paint it so it looks nice again. Sandblasting?
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- #218
Hey Crescent,
Nope, no thought on that yet... still trying to figure out how to deal with the rust on the frame and tub...
The master cylinder is leaking pretty good and not sure on the booster seals, if those are shot, so likely looking at a minimum rebuild at which point would full dismantle, sandblast and probably powder coat, otherwise, just replace with better used. Long way off to figuring out a gameplan thouhg as it will likely be at least a year before I look at the part again.
Nope, no thought on that yet... still trying to figure out how to deal with the rust on the frame and tub...
The master cylinder is leaking pretty good and not sure on the booster seals, if those are shot, so likely looking at a minimum rebuild at which point would full dismantle, sandblast and probably powder coat, otherwise, just replace with better used. Long way off to figuring out a gameplan thouhg as it will likely be at least a year before I look at the part again.
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- #219
Pedal Box Removal
I have made a lot of progress over the last few weeks. Been slowly removing all the components and parts from the tub so that I can prep it for removal from the frame. Took the pedal box out. Didn't realize it was only held on by 2 bolts after the clutch and brake master cylinders along with the steering column were removed. Popped out really nice and it is in good shape. Will just need to be stripped down, sandblasted and painted or powder coated. Here are some pics of it coming out.
I have made a lot of progress over the last few weeks. Been slowly removing all the components and parts from the tub so that I can prep it for removal from the frame. Took the pedal box out. Didn't realize it was only held on by 2 bolts after the clutch and brake master cylinders along with the steering column were removed. Popped out really nice and it is in good shape. Will just need to be stripped down, sandblasted and painted or powder coated. Here are some pics of it coming out.
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- #220
Pedal Box Relay Removal
RH hand side of the pedal box has the seatbelt buzzer (green) and the dimmer relay attached to it. The LH Side had the turn signal and hazard relay attached to it. Removed these 3 relay boxes.
RH hand side of the pedal box has the seatbelt buzzer (green) and the dimmer relay attached to it. The LH Side had the turn signal and hazard relay attached to it. Removed these 3 relay boxes.