Hello. I'm almost done with the engine reseal project, but also have issues with A/C. Found a major leak from a line above the engine, not sure whether I have to replace whole line or just an o-ring. Anyways, there is no refrigerant nor oil in the system. A/C compressor bearing is noisy so needs to be replaced, but how do I check the A/C compressor? I don't want to spend around 800 if I can still use this one with a new bearing and/or clutch. What else I have to do not to ruin the whole A/C system? Probably I should get it flushed to make sure it's clean inside, which means I have to take vehicle to a shop to do that, in this case, can I install the old compressor back so I can drive it to a shop or the only way is to tow the vehicle?
Issues with A/C and compressor itself.
- Thread starter avrguser
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You can install the old one and drive. Just don't turn the AC on or you're going to damage the compressor (there are sensors and stuff that are supposed to disconnect the clutch to protect the compressor and the belt but why risk it). But do not postpone the replacement as you do not want the bad bearing to damage the belt and overheat the engine.
Tere is no need to buy a $800 compressor from Toyota. The same compressor but w/o T name on it can be had from Rock Auto much cheaper and comes with the clutch (OEM compressor does not include the clutch). It also comes w/ clutch installed with the washers and all that (OEM requires you reuse the bolt, washers, and clips from the old compressor or buy new ones).
For my rig the compressor is DENSO 4711015 RockAuto | All The Parts Your Car Will Ever Need - https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4717809&cc=1503734&pt=6628&jsn=10853
I do not know how to "test" a compressor unless you have a full AC system (charged and all that).
If you do not mind the labor, you can replace the clutch (pulley is part of it, and the bearing is part of the pulley), flush the system, reload oil and refrigerant and then test the system. If it works you are done.
If it doesn't work then you'll have to troubleshoot to see what's wrong. It can be many things including a bad compressor, in which case you have to redo the labor including evacuating the refrigerant.
The only sure thing that will disqualify your compressor is if when you drain it the oil has black stuff in it. Same if you get black stuff when you flush the system. If that is the case you may also need to replace the condenser.
About flushing ... if you do it yourself make sure you do not flush the compressor!
The new compressor comes with the oil inside so if you flush the system you do not have to mess with oil. If you reinstall yours then you do. When adding oil back to the system make sure you measure how much oil is still in the compressor by draining it (requires removal). Keep in mind that you cannot drain all oil out of it. I measured and estimated that about 15ml will always remain inside.
I went through all this this summer. My clutch was crocked and slipping and I suspected the bearing. Turned out that bearing was good but the clip that was supposed to keep the bearing/pulley in position on compressor's neck was totally missing so the issue was the bearing on a crocked position on the compressor neck - neck was damaged. I ended up replacing the compressor although otherwise the compressor was good. Did not pay attention that T compressor does not come with the clutch and spent $320 more than I should have had to. If I'm doing this again I'll get the Denso.
Tere is no need to buy a $800 compressor from Toyota. The same compressor but w/o T name on it can be had from Rock Auto much cheaper and comes with the clutch (OEM compressor does not include the clutch). It also comes w/ clutch installed with the washers and all that (OEM requires you reuse the bolt, washers, and clips from the old compressor or buy new ones).
For my rig the compressor is DENSO 4711015 RockAuto | All The Parts Your Car Will Ever Need - https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4717809&cc=1503734&pt=6628&jsn=10853
I do not know how to "test" a compressor unless you have a full AC system (charged and all that).
If you do not mind the labor, you can replace the clutch (pulley is part of it, and the bearing is part of the pulley), flush the system, reload oil and refrigerant and then test the system. If it works you are done.
If it doesn't work then you'll have to troubleshoot to see what's wrong. It can be many things including a bad compressor, in which case you have to redo the labor including evacuating the refrigerant.
The only sure thing that will disqualify your compressor is if when you drain it the oil has black stuff in it. Same if you get black stuff when you flush the system. If that is the case you may also need to replace the condenser.
About flushing ... if you do it yourself make sure you do not flush the compressor!
The new compressor comes with the oil inside so if you flush the system you do not have to mess with oil. If you reinstall yours then you do. When adding oil back to the system make sure you measure how much oil is still in the compressor by draining it (requires removal). Keep in mind that you cannot drain all oil out of it. I measured and estimated that about 15ml will always remain inside.
I went through all this this summer. My clutch was crocked and slipping and I suspected the bearing. Turned out that bearing was good but the clip that was supposed to keep the bearing/pulley in position on compressor's neck was totally missing so the issue was the bearing on a crocked position on the compressor neck - neck was damaged. I ended up replacing the compressor although otherwise the compressor was good. Did not pay attention that T compressor does not come with the clutch and spent $320 more than I should have had to. If I'm doing this again I'll get the Denso.
- Thread starter
- #3
Here are some updates, and also wanted to mention that I have removed the A/C compressor, as well as condenser and many other accessories, because I had to reseal timing cover, camshaft, heat exchanger, etc. So there is no refrigerant nor oil in the compressor (but I'm assuming could be a little bit of oil in the A/C lines or the condenser). I don't know whether something's wrong with the compressor, I just had leak in the A/C line the goes into the cabin below windshield (picture included), but I didn't run the A/C without refrigerant and oil since then. Besides that line I didn't find any other leaks, and the compressor's bearing is noisy when spin it, that's why want to replace it. Like I said before, if I can still use this compressor, I'd prefer that. Denso costs around 600 and the Toyota one around 800 with the clutch. Referring to the pic below, can anybody tell me how to remove safely the A/C line marked as 88710E that goes inside the huge rubber o-ring? I want to inspect it and if the line is OK then I'll just replace the o-ring inside, just don't want to bend the whole line. And one more question - A/C components have nothing to do with heat?
Don't know about the line removal. Inspecting lines one by one is a bit unusual. Usually, the inspection is system wide via vacuum holding for 24 hours, monitored via A/C gauges.
"A/C components have nothing to do with heat?" - correct. Heating is handled via engine collant on different circuits and heat exchangers.
"A/C components have nothing to do with heat?" - correct. Heating is handled via engine collant on different circuits and heat exchangers.
- Thread starter
- #5
So I did replace o-rings for the A/C lines (at least for those I have access to), I will then install everything and check for leaks again. But now I have to replace bearing, where can I buy a good bearing (part number please) for the A/C compressor? I guess you can't buy an OEM one or Denso, unless it's a whole clutch.
I just repllaced the clutch. I'm not aware if the bearing is available by itself.
Maybe someone has done this.
Otherwise look at the bearing marks and search the internet. There are places specialized in selling bearings.
Maybe someone has done this.
Otherwise look at the bearing marks and search the internet. There are places specialized in selling bearings.
- Thread starter
- #7
I checked the compressor and everything seems fine, I don't have to replace it. Now trying to figure out the amount of oil in the system. In the repair manual it says brand new compressor has approx. 5.1 oz of oil in it, but that's brand new and I'm going to install the one I had before. I have no clue how much is the system's total capacity and how much I have in it now, even with new compressor and condenser. How do I find this information and measure everything? I only remember I spilled a few oz when removed the compressor, but also I had a leak in one of the A/C hoses.
This is not exact science unless you start with a fresh new system or you can completely flush the system - good luck with the complex 200 AC system.
Here are some resources for you...
Oil distribution within the A/C system:
*The total amount of added oil is usually 4 ounces which means that the sum of oil in all the components shouldn’t be higher than 4. This number will depend on your car’s AC system oil capacity.
Denso - 160461-denso-leaflet-practical-tips-a4_en_.pdf
Ricks - How Much Oil to Add to AC System: — Ricks Free Auto Repair Advice Ricks Free Auto Repair Advice | Car Repair Tips and How-To Advice
OBDAdvisor Do I Need to Add Oil When Recharging My Car’s AC Compressor? - OBD Advisor
Denso does say there is 135cc(ml)/4.6oz oil in the compressor when shipped.
Toyota FSM say 135+15 cc/ml (4.6 + 0.51oz.). The +15ml I assume is for cool box and rear colling unit. So total oil for the entire system is: 150ml (5.11oz).
For a new system that amount of oil should be in the compressor before installing it. Again, the entire amount of oil for the entire system is loaded in the compressor for a new system.
Too little oil - compressor will eventually fail.
Too much oil - cooling efficiency decreases as the heat exchangers get internally coated by the oil.
Just a bit overfilled - you'll be fine.
Denso also specifies that compressor failing level is 30%-50% of total system oil in the compressor. That means you do have a margine of error when adding oil to your system.
They say to measure how much you drain from the old and use the formula:
LX FSM formula is: 135+15 - [amount removed from the old compressor]
Denso formula is: 135 - [amount removed from the old compressor]
I assume Denso put enough oil for a regular 200 and if you have the cooling box you should add 15ml as FSM does.
Drain - means the oil from condenser + from the compressor + a few oz for drips and coating of containers (the oil is sticky) + oil you cannot get out of the compressor.
I estimated by draining the new compressor and measuring that there is 15ml of oil I could not drain out of a compressor. Not surprising given how many parts are inside the compressor and how sticky the oil is.
Even if you reuse your compressor you still need to drain it and measure how much you have in there. Be patient it takes a while.
You changed the condenser so add 1oz for that (see table above)
Once you figured out, measure ND Oil 8 and add it to the compressor before installing it.
Here are some resources for you...
Oil distribution within the A/C system:
| Denso | Generic | OBDAdvisor* | |
| Evaporator | 20% | 1.5-2oz | 1.5oz |
| Condenser | 10% | 1oz | 1oz |
| Dryer | 10% | 1oz | |
| Accumulator | 2oz | 1oz | |
| Compressor | 50% | 1oz | 1.4oz |
| Hoses | 10% | 1oz/ea | 1oz |
Denso - 160461-denso-leaflet-practical-tips-a4_en_.pdf
Ricks - How Much Oil to Add to AC System: — Ricks Free Auto Repair Advice Ricks Free Auto Repair Advice | Car Repair Tips and How-To Advice
OBDAdvisor Do I Need to Add Oil When Recharging My Car’s AC Compressor? - OBD Advisor
Denso does say there is 135cc(ml)/4.6oz oil in the compressor when shipped.
Toyota FSM say 135+15 cc/ml (4.6 + 0.51oz.). The +15ml I assume is for cool box and rear colling unit. So total oil for the entire system is: 150ml (5.11oz).
For a new system that amount of oil should be in the compressor before installing it. Again, the entire amount of oil for the entire system is loaded in the compressor for a new system.
Too little oil - compressor will eventually fail.
Too much oil - cooling efficiency decreases as the heat exchangers get internally coated by the oil.
Just a bit overfilled - you'll be fine.
Denso also specifies that compressor failing level is 30%-50% of total system oil in the compressor. That means you do have a margine of error when adding oil to your system.
They say to measure how much you drain from the old and use the formula:
LX FSM formula is: 135+15 - [amount removed from the old compressor]
Denso formula is: 135 - [amount removed from the old compressor]
I assume Denso put enough oil for a regular 200 and if you have the cooling box you should add 15ml as FSM does.
Drain - means the oil from condenser + from the compressor + a few oz for drips and coating of containers (the oil is sticky) + oil you cannot get out of the compressor.
I estimated by draining the new compressor and measuring that there is 15ml of oil I could not drain out of a compressor. Not surprising given how many parts are inside the compressor and how sticky the oil is.
Even if you reuse your compressor you still need to drain it and measure how much you have in there. Be patient it takes a while.
You changed the condenser so add 1oz for that (see table above)
Once you figured out, measure ND Oil 8 and add it to the compressor before installing it.
- Thread starter
- #9
Had a leak in the low pressure line, changed schrader valve (bought OEM from a dealership) and still leaks in there. With the new schrader valves now I have a leak in the high pressure line as well. Are those valves bad that I bought or I did install wrong? Other than that I do not have have leaks, but again, because of this, I can't pull vacuum.
High and low ports only hiss for a few seconds after disconnected manifold hoses. I have tried different valves and it's still the same. Probably I do it wrong. Didn't have these issues yesterday.
High and low ports only hiss for a few seconds after disconnected manifold hoses. I have tried different valves and it's still the same. Probably I do it wrong. Didn't have these issues yesterday.
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I did not have any problems with port valves and I'm still using the original ones (mines are from 2012).
I did have issues on Subaru valves (aged after 10 years) and aftermarket ones (did not last more than a few years).
I guess you are using a standard manifold and hoses and you retract the pins (unscrew) before removing the couplers.
I usually apply some ND Oil 8 on the valve seals before install, and on any rubber part in the system like the compressor O-rings.
Maybe you did not notice the high line valve leak due to the low line leak.
There is nothing magic about those valves. I'm surprised the new OEM one leaks.
I did have issues on Subaru valves (aged after 10 years) and aftermarket ones (did not last more than a few years).
I guess you are using a standard manifold and hoses and you retract the pins (unscrew) before removing the couplers.
I usually apply some ND Oil 8 on the valve seals before install, and on any rubber part in the system like the compressor O-rings.
Maybe you did not notice the high line valve leak due to the low line leak.
There is nothing magic about those valves. I'm surprised the new OEM one leaks.