Is this a acceptable regear pattern?

[filly]

is this a acceptable regear pattern ? if not what do i need to change ?

My heel side looks low and I am wondering if that acceptable ?

 

[filly]

Here are more photos of the pattern

 

[Malleus]

The drive side is acceptable, the coast side is too deep; but they both have to be good or neither one is.

Are those used gears?
What were your pinion depth and backlash measurements? Compared to nominal.
Are you using a crush sleeve or spacers?

 

[filly]

The drive side is acceptable, the coast side is too deep; but they both have to be good or neither one is.

Are those used gears?
What were your pinion depth and backlash measurements? Compared to nominal.
Are you using a crush sleeve or spacers?

I am using a solid spacer and my backlash is 0.07 and my shim behind the pinion bearing is 0.0484 and they are brand new 5:29 gears from Yukon I originally used the oem shim but the patter was too deep so I decreased the pinion depth by 0.01

here is what my pattern was with the oem shim

 

[Malleus]

Yeah, that's too low on the drive side. And that looks like a really long pattern for new gears.

Ten thousandths is too much to move at one time. You need to go back to where the pinion was originally and move it in 0.001–in increments. It doesn't take much to make significant changes.

It will take a while, if you don't have everything measured, to get it right by trial and error. That's why the crush sleeve was invented.

 

[filly]

Yeah, that's too low on the drive side. And that looks like a really long pattern for new gears.

Ten thousandths is too much to move at one time. You need to go back to where the pinion was originally and move it in 0.001–in increments. It doesn't take much to make significant changes.

It will take a while, if you don't have everything measured, to get it right by trial and error. That's why the crush sleeve was invented.

So I need to add shims to my current setup?

 

[Malleus]

Yes, but there's no way to know how much, since you've moved it already. That's why I suggested you go back to where you started and try again.

On the assembly line, all the parts are measured by the assembly tooling and the required shim is spit out automagically. You can build the differential the same way, if you measure the four datums that you need. If you don't, you have to rely on trial and error. What you cannot do is jump around hoping you'll hit the right combinations; you never will.

If you can't measure properly, just setup the differential up as best you can and print it. It won't be correct, but that's not your goal. Your goal is to estimate where you are compared to where you need to be, and then add/subtract to get here. Remember, both the ring and pinion can move, so be careful, deliberate and take notes. It isn't hard, but it does take patience.

 

[filly]

Yes, but there's no way to know how much, since you've moved it already. That's why I suggested you go back to where you started and try again.

On the assembly line, all the parts are measured by the assembly tooling and the required shim is spit out automagically. You can build the differential the same way, if you measure the four datums that you need. If you don't, you have to rely on trial and error. What you cannot do is jump around hoping you'll hit the right combinations; you never will.

If you can't measure properly, just setup the differential up as best you can and print it. It won't be correct, but that's not your goal. Your goal is to estimate where you are compared to where you need to be, and then add/subtract to get here. Remember, both the ring and pinion can move, so be careful, deliberate and take notes. It isn't hard, but it does take patience.

I decreased the shim size and it seems like my pattern is acceptable but I am replying to get a second opinion

the pattern still isn't perfect looks a lil shallow but I am wondering if I should take it all apart again or just run it

 

[Malleus]

If these were used gears, I'd be tempted to let that go. But since they're new, the coast side is OK, but the drive side, which is the more important of the two, is too close to the toe (the ID of the ring gear). You're very close, though. Move in really small increments.

 

[filly]

So I need to add shims to my current setup?

If these were used gears, I'd be tempted to let that go. But since they're new, the coast side is OK, but the drive side, which is the more important of the two, is too close to the toe (the ID of the ring gear). You're very close, though. Move in really small increments.

Okay thank you so much for your help I will add a thicker shim and I will upload a photo

 

[filly]

If these were used gears, I'd be tempted to let that go. But since they're new, the coast side is OK, but the drive side, which is the more important of the two, is too close to the toe (the ID of the ring gear). You're very close, though. Move in really small increments.

On more questions if I am too close to the toe that means my pinion is too deep? and I need to add a thinner shim ?

 

[Malleus]

Yes, but you need to then check and verify correct backlash and then print the pattern again.

 

[Malleus]

Keep this in mind: you want the patterns, plural, to be equal and centered both ways under load. The key here is "under load". You aren't printing the gears under load, so your pattern will not the be the contact pattern that occurs when the gearset is working. You want it to be a smidge off, in the unloaded direction. That's a very technical term, meaning "whatever I feel looks good to me at the time, based on what I know about these axles".

The drive and coast patterns, in theory should be equal. In practice they probably won't be. Most differentials are built using gearsets that are shipped to them, so they have to use what they are given. I worked in a plant that actually hobbed bevel gearsets, and even ours weren't equal 100% of the time. That's just the reality of industrial production manufacturing techniques. As long as the patterns are reasonably close, and the drive pattern is good, you're going to be OK.

Unfortunately, it takes a lot of verbiage to give the knowledge someone could give you standing beside you. There are a lot of internet resources that are very good. Check out the ones from gear manufacturers. Most even have technical reps who will guide you over the phone. The part 3 gearset and part 4 Arrow Gear is a good example.

Ignore the youtube "No one can believe this CRAZY gear pattern" videos.

 

[filly]

Keep this in mind: you want the patterns, plural, to be equal and centered both ways under load. The key here is "under load". You aren't printing the gears under load, so your pattern will not the be the contact pattern that occurs when the gearset is working. You want it to be a smidge off, in the unloaded direction. That's a very technical term, meaning "whatever I feel looks good to me at the time, based on what I know about these axles".

The drive and coast patterns, in theory should be equal. In practice they probably won't be. Most differentials are built using gearsets that are shipped to them, so they have to use what they are given. I worked in a plant that actually hobbed bevel gearsets, and even ours weren't equal 100% of the time. That's just the reality of industrial production manufacturing techniques. As long as the patterns are reasonably close, and the drive pattern is good, you're going to be OK.

Unfortunately, it takes a lot of verbiage to give the knowledge someone could give you standing beside you. There are a lot of internet resources that are very good. Check out the ones from gear manufacturers. Most even have technical reps who will guide you over the phone. The part 3 gearset and part 4 Arrow Gear is a good example.

Ignore the youtube "No one can believe this CRAZY gear pattern" videos.

I went down 0.001 the first time seemed still a lil close to the toe side I went down another 0.001 and it seems like I am good the pattern is pretty much centered on the tooth and my back lash is set to 0.06

 

[Malleus]

Run with that. Good work. You are a 1%er now.

 

[filly]

Run with that. Good work. You are a 1%er now.

Thank you so much for your help

 

[Malleus]

You did all the hard work.

 

[filly]

Here is my front pattern after shimming the bearing race and everything tighten to spec
Person at Yukon told me it’s good to run
It looks good to me
But posting on here to get a second opinion