is there a diff/gear guide?

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I am trying to educate myself on our drivetrains... more specifically gears. I've heard terms such as 4.30, 4.88, 8", 9" nitro gears, etc. I was wondering if there was a place that i could read up on such info. There is so much info here on mud with respect to our trucks, but it all seems to be in many many little pieces. I'm looking for the newbie's guide to gears. I'd love to call slee or justdifferentials, but i really don't want to waste their time, although there is a distinct possibility i may be regearing.

Some may say, if you have to ask, it's probably not for you. This is normally true but this may be a case of "while you're in there..." I am exploring options.
 
I am trying to educate myself on our drivetrains... more specifically gears. I've heard terms such as 4.30, 4.88, 8", 9" nitro gears, etc. I was wondering if there was a place that i could read up on such info. There is so much info here on mud with respect to our trucks, but it all seems to be in many many little pieces. I'm looking for the newbie's guide to gears. I'd love to call slee or justdifferentials, but i really don't want to waste their time, although there is a distinct possibility i may be regearing.

Some may say, if you have to ask, it's probably not for you. This is normally true but this may be a case of "while you're in there..." I am exploring options.

Well, let's see if I can make my 3rd post here a helpful one. Don't particularly have a good FAQ available, but Google should be able to help you out on the generic terms. I'll give a quick rundown for the uninitiated.

Gear Ratio
This is the 4.30 or 4.88 you see. It's actually 4.30:1 which is where the ratio comes into play. This is saying that for every "1" rotation of the ring gear the pinion will rotate 4.30 times. Take that further, it also says that for each rotation of the tire the driveshaft will rotate 4.30 times. For 4.88s, the driveshaft will rotate 4.88 times to turn the wheels once. From a physics standpoint, the different ratios make it easier(or harder) for the motor to turn the wheels. Lot's of discussion can go on here about gear ratios, but the very basics are the numerically higher first number(lower ratio) make it easier for the motor to turn the wheels, leading to better acceleration and towing. But since it's all coupled together, it also means that at any given wheelspeed, the driveshaft is turning more times and thus your RPMs will be higher, possibly leading to less MPGs.

Gear Ratio Specific to 100 Series
From the '98 to '02 model years, the 100 Series was equipped with 4.30:1 gears to accommodate the gearing of the 4 speed automatic transmission.
'03+ got a 5 speed with a nice spread of ratios that allowed for 4.10:1 gears to be used. The low 1st gear in the transmission allowed for a better crawl ratio and the higher ratio allowed for ~1 more MPG in highway cruising...theoretically at least.

Differential sizing
Generally given in inches, it is the diameter of the ring gear. I believe the 100 Series has 9.5" rear diff and an 8" front. Front might be interchangeable with earlier models, but I believe the rear is specific with 32 spline axles whereas previous generations were 30 spline. Somebody can correct me if I'm wrong...

Third Members
Not mentioned in your list, but I thought I would throw it out there. The 100 Series used a style of differential with what is called a removable third member. Basically the ring and pinion are housed in this "third member" and can be removed from the axle as a unit. One thing this allows is for easy(relatively) removal of the third member to be taken to a pro to install/setup gears. This can save you some money if you're somewhat mechanically inclined, but don't have the tools or knowledge to correctly setup the gears. Also if you find yourself in need of a replacement after a breakage, you might be able to find a salvage yard to pull just a third member and replace it without any additional work.

Anyway, there are much more knowledgeable folks on here in regards to these technical bits, but I thought this might help answer some very basic questions in the meantime. Those of you who are more than just a keyboard mechanic like me, feel free to add to/correct anything I've posted here.
 
The major reason to re-gear is to correct the overall drive ratios for a change in tire size. In the case of the 100 series we have an ECM (engine control module)that interacts with the automatic transmission and ABS systems. Changing the tire diameter will cause errors in the information collected by the sensors that these systems use.

A small change in tire size will have little effect and can be ignored, for instance I changed from the factory tire size to a tire that is about 33" in diameter and kept the factory gears. I really notice very little difference in performance. I just need to remember that my trucks is actually going a little faster than the speedo says and my MPG calculations need to adjust for the error in the ODO.

If you went to a much larger tire, say 35", it would be almost essential that you re-gear the differentials.

As coder pointed out the gear ratio is the number of turns the drive shaft makes to result in one revolution of the tire. If we increase the tire diameter the circumference increases and one revolution covers a greater distance. Meanwhile the ECM and ABS systems think you are still moving the same shorter distance so the speedometer reads slow, the odometer registers fewer miles, and the transmission shifts at the wrong speeds. If we increase the number of turns the drive shaft makes to result in one revolution of the tire we can correct for the larger tire size.
 
Can i assume that the gear ratios for the front and rear must be the same?

Is it usually the case that when one goes up to 4.88 gears, an ARB locker is accompanying the upgrade?


I've also heard about the 2-pinion and 4-pinion front diffs with most people saying that the 2-pinion front diffs (98-02?) being weaker than the 4-pinion. What exactly does the 2-pinion and the 4-pinion diff referring to? ---- stupid question cuz i just searched and found the answer.
 
Just to add a few items here and answer a few of your ?'s...

4.30 gears came stock in Toyota 100 Series 98-02 (gear ratios will always match front and rear but diff sizes are often different)

4.10 gears came stock in Toyota 100 Series 03-07 (*I forgot this initially; edited per Hoser's response below)

100 Series Land Cruisers have a 8" front diff and a 9.5" rear diff

4.30 gears were only available via Toyota and very expensive in the past but in recent years aftermarket 4.30 gears have become available and are more affordable

4.88 gears are normally added when people move to 35" tires to bring back a more stock driving feel from moving to a larger tire

a ARB air locker does not require changing your gear set but is often done when everything is apart because typically a complete axle service replacing bearings, seals, etc when upgrading should be done

moving to 4.88 gears will require complete axle service on both front and rear end plus both diffs will need to be setup with preload and backlash setup due to new ring and pinons being added; you are basically looking at x2 cost from just replacing a front diff

the 2 pinion Toyota front diff was only in 98-99 models; 4 pinion Toyota front diff 00-07
 
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Can i assume that the gear ratios for the front and rear must be the same?

Is it usually the case that when one goes up to 4.88 gears, an ARB locker is accompanying the upgrade?


I've also heard about the 2-pinion and 4-pinion front diffs with most people saying that the 2-pinion front diffs (98-02?) being weaker than the 4-pinion. What exactly does the 2-pinion and the 4-pinion diff referring to? ---- stupid question cuz i just searched and found the answer.
Consider what would would happen if the front and rear tires were turning at different speeds.....;)

The ARB front diff is IMHO an essential up grade no matter if you re-gear or not. It's a case of pay now or pay more later.

If you are re-gearing it makes sense to do the ARB upgrade at the same time. The lions share of the cost of re-gearing is paying a shop to set up the gears.
If you install an ARB you also need to pay a shop to set the gears up.

I consider myself a decent DIY wrench and I pay shops to do gears. The tools are specialized, the process is complicated and errors are costly.
 
4.30 gears came stock in Toyota 100 Series 98-07 (gear ratios will always match front and rear but diff sizes are often different)
4.3 for the 98-02 and 4.1 for the 03-07 is correct for the 2UZ-FE.

Going from a 31" tire to a 35" is 35/31=12.9%
Going from 4.3 gearing to 4.88 is 4.88/4.3=13.5%

This will take gearing back close to stock but doesn't account for all the added weight.

For '03+, 4.88/4.1=19%
 
^ Thanks Hoser for the correction...

I thought I remembered there was a slight gear ratio difference in later year 100's but couldn't quickly confirm this. I looked at Slee's site and they only had 4.30 and 4.88 gears available for 98-07

4.10/4.11 gears are very common in other Land Cruisers over the years and other Toyota trucks as well so both Toyota and aftermarket options exist for this gear ratio
 
The ARB front diff is IMHO an essential up grade no matter if you re-gear or not. It's a case of pay now or pay more later.


The ARB front diff upgrade being the locker?
 
The ARB front diff upgrade being the locker?

The ARB locker replaces the factory planetary gears and is much stronger

Sent via the ether from my candy bar running ginger bread
 
Here's another question. Everything i read about thus far has been people with stock gearing going up to 33's or people regearing to 4.88's and going to 35's. Is it unheard of to go with 4.56's and having the ability to run 33's and 35's? Currently i have 33's and if i regear to 4.88's I really don't think it will be too drivable. (note: i have to fix my gears currently)
 
4.56 gears are not available for 100 Series vehicles

You don't need to re-gear with 33's or at least you won't notice that much difference in driving performance... Moving to 35's is a noticeable change, however I've been running 35's (315/75/16 BFG MT's) for 3 years with stock gears without it bothering me much... I did run 33's for a few years prior to 35's so I have steadily increased tire size since purchasing my 100...
 
4.56 gears are not available for 100 Series vehicles

You don't need to re-gear with 33's or at least you won't notice that much difference in driving performance... Moving to 35's is a noticeable change, however I've been running 35's (315/75/16 BFG MT's) for 3 years with stock gears without it bothering me much... I did run 33's for a few years prior to 35's so I have steadily increased tire size since purchasing my 100...

Yeah. This thread has been quite helpful that i found on one of my searches. https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/516229-re-gear-4-88s-not.html

I have a 5spd with broken front diff so i fall into that category of now is the time. I don't have the coin to just throw around but i do need to get the truck back to proper functioning condition.
 
3D FJ - What broke in your front diff? spider gears destroyed? ring gear destroyed? Any pictures? It is not unheard of but far less common to blow the 4 pinion front diff. The 2 pinion diff is far weaker and break a lot more often. You can see how much stronger the 4 pinion design is just looking at the two. I have pictures somewhere from when this happened to me. I will try to find some and post a few.

I also blew my front diff wheelin and luckily didn't drive far so my ring gear was okay. My spider gears were destroyed and after weighing all my options along with my budget at the time I decided to install a newer 4 pinion Toyota diff. Luckily I found someone on Mud that had just upgraded to an ARB and I purchased his 4 pinion stock Toyota diff and bolted my old ring gear to the 4 pinion diff and put everything back together myself. Since I was using the same ring and pinion I didn't need to re-set the preload and backlash. I did the complete front diff replacement and axle service myself and replaced all the bearing and seals with new Toyota parts...
 
jgray - clear your inbox for one message...
 
Has anyone here removed the front diff and 3rd memeber themselves to be sent out to have the regear done and lockers put in? If so, when these parts come back, what new seals/ other parts are required to reinstall the front diff and 3rd member? I am looking at the FSM and i'm wondering what i should purchase in advance if i decide to attempt this myself. ie... will i have to replace the oil seals on the diff carrier and diff tube where the axles enter? and where the diff tube connects to the diff carrier, is there a gasket or seal?
 
3DFJ - Looks like my silver star expired so I renewed it... You can PM me now if needed and I will try to help as best I can...

I wouldn't hesitate to call Carl @ Justdifferentials or Slee Offroad to further discuss your options. Both shops are true Land Cruiser experts and will make sure you get everything you need with whatever direction you decide to go...
 
I've searched around quite a bit and haven't seen a specific answer to the following question:

Is there any reason to worry about re-gearing with 285/75/16 tires? Does that tire size require any other adjustments? Does it place any extra stress on anything?

Someone else in another thread linked to a site that shows a 5.37% change in speedometer/Gearing with that tire size, but I don't know if that's significant enough to cause any issues.
 
I've searched around quite a bit and haven't seen a specific answer to the following question:

Is there any reason to worry about re-gearing with 285/75/16 tires? Does that tire size require any other adjustments? Does it place any extra stress on anything?

Someone else in another thread linked to a site that shows a 5.37% change in speedometer/Gearing with that tire size, but I don't know if that's significant enough to cause any issues.

Short answer:
No not really.​

Long answer:
Assuming you have a 4spd auto, the factory gear would be ~4.3. If you were OCD a ~4.56 gear would get you back close to stock, BUT I haven't seen anything near that ratio being available for the UZJ100.
It probably does add a little extra stress to the driveline/brakes/steering.
It does have a mild impact on acceleration/braking/handling.
It may or may not have enough of an impact on the speedo that you'd want to look at speedo correction.​
 
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Short answer:
No not really.​

Long answer:
Assuming you have a 4spd auto, the factory gear would be ~4.3. If you were OCD a ~4.56 gear would get you back close to stock, BUT I haven't seen anything near that ratio being available for the UZJ100.​

Thanks jLB!
 
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