one end turns (next to where the steering stabilizer is connected, left side), the right side no turney. Should it?
is it easy to straighten steering wheel?
- Thread starter concretejungle
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
If you mean the rod end on the right side yes the threads should turn inside the rod, they are often reported stuck. one of the rod ends has left hand threads so that rotating the rod will make the assembly longer or shorter without having to disconnect the rod ends.
guess I need a bigger pipe wrench. 
I did notice grease coming out of the rubber boot on the right side when I torqued down on it trying to get it to turn... Didnt see that it was torn any, I think it just pulled up out of its seat.
I did notice grease coming out of the rubber boot on the right side when I torqued down on it trying to get it to turn... Didnt see that it was torn any, I think it just pulled up out of its seat.
A good source of heat such as a propane torch helps out quite a bit to loosen the threaded ends.
- Thread starter
- #25
smokethedog said:
Mine also did this. How or should i replace the grease?
darwood, et al.
the steering gear box (read where the pitman arm attaches) has a centered position, put your front end on stands and lock the wheels to the left, then lock your wheels to the right, right in the middle is your centered position, the chances of messing this up by playing with the wheel is pretty good.
I would recommend the propane torch and some penetrant to adjust the drag link, Raven is correct you should not have to pull either of the tie rod ends.
Dave
the steering gear box (read where the pitman arm attaches) has a centered position, put your front end on stands and lock the wheels to the left, then lock your wheels to the right, right in the middle is your centered position, the chances of messing this up by playing with the wheel is pretty good.
I would recommend the propane torch and some penetrant to adjust the drag link, Raven is correct you should not have to pull either of the tie rod ends.
Dave
instead of a pipe wrench try clamping the tie rod with vice grips and then turning each rod end in turn using a 17 mm open ended wrench in the "neck slot" in rod end while holding the rod with the vice grips. Just turn a quarter turn at a time, and then use the vice grips to turn the rod and rod ends so the rod end ball points straight up again. It is much easier to break a sticky rod end loose from the rod this way and as long as you turn each rod end in turn an equal distance you will not have problems with unequal thread length on the rod ends.
tried that. the damn thing wouldnt budge. sprayed wd40 on the threads, still wouldnt budge. Any other miracle snake oil out there that will help break this loose?
Need to find something to use for removing my front O2 sensor. The nuts are rusted crazy.
advice?
Need to find something to use for removing my front O2 sensor. The nuts are rusted crazy.
advice?
the next step is heat for about 5 minutes. the step after that is threading a 21mm deep socket over the other end of the 17mm wrench and then attaching the longest extension bar you can to the socket for a lot of leverage. the step after that is popping the rod ends off the steering arms and putting the whole rod in a good vice and repeating the heat and extension trick. that was what finally worked for me. I would invest in some antiseize if you get that far.
RavenTai said:
At least in my truck, there weren't any match marks that I could discern. I think the wheel on my truck had been played with before. The clock spring was off from what the manual said it should be. It was more like 4 cycles out when centered instead of 3 (I think I'm remembering correctly the measurements), however that could be factory, but it was strange.
I think the wheel could have been rotated one rotation too much to the left when the drag link was off by some previous owner or repair shop. My truck had a new drag link when I bought it so I know it was off, and possibly damaged at some time.
Well if you cant get them loose then you can just go and buy the new and improved HD rod and relay rod and TRE's from Christo. Worked fcr me, but my tie rod was bent to hell so I was in for the bar and rod ends anyways.
Dave
Dave
- Joined
- Jul 20, 2004
- Threads
- 274
- Messages
- 23,204
- Location
- Chandler, AZ
- Website
- www.tontorecreationalliance.org
Along with good penetrating oil, tapping/pounding with a big hammer on the rod in the area where the threads are inside helps the oil penetrate and shakes the rust loose.
Land Speeder
InstaH8R
smokethedog said:
PB Blaster... before work, during lunch break, then after work. (buy it at your favorite store, even Big Lots)
Good on pancakes too
- Thread starter
- #37
PB blasted mine yesterday and again this morning. I'm going racin' in Richmond today, so tomorrow i'll see if i can give her a twist and align my steering wheel.
Btw I used big A$$ pipe wrenches on mine even after alot of PB blaster.
Cheers,
Sean
Cheers,
Sean
- Thread starter
- #39
Just went out and gave her a shot. Wow was it easy. I did PB blast the clamping bolts and the threads on the rod two days prior to the attempt. Then, just a minute ago took two 17mm wrenches, loosened the clamps, used a pair of vise grips and twisted the bar. Then it was loose enough for me to use my hands to twist. Twisted it a few times and went for a drive. Actually over adjusted, so stopped in a parking lot, gave a twist or two in the opposite direction and whallah, set. Drove home, tightened the clamps and finished.
job IMHO.
job IMHO.
everybody with crooked wheels take a look at the cross shaft coming out of the steering box above the pitman arm, you can see a short section of the splines exposed, they should be straigt up and down. I saw 2 80's today with twisted cross shafts.