I have a 94 that recently started to intermittently crank but not start, coinciding the the CEL failing to light up in the "ON" key position. Totally random...sometimes it lights up/starts, sometimes not, hot, cold, whatever. It has a brand new fuel pump. I've looked through the other threads on this, but I think I've narrowed it down to a possible culprit not mentioned elsewhere. How? I recently plugged in a toyota OEM radio from a 99 Camry that I initially thought was a dud because it would randomly lose the sound. The radio would power up, but the sound would sometimes show up sometimes not. To test the radio further, I plugged it into another 94 I have and it worked perfectly. So, is there common wiring that controls the CEL issue and the radio sound to the speakers? Maybe a short or loose connection that results in the randomness of it all?
Intermittent "cranks but won't start" issue (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Run100s
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RoaringFork
SILVER Star
Most common cause for no CEL when key’d on is fuseable links, then efi relay.
Check your wiring at the erg pipie and behind the glovebox.
Check your wiring at the erg pipie and behind the glovebox.
The first thing that comes up are the Fusible Links.
Read this thread. For some reason, the 94's seem to have more problems with this.
94 delayed cranking. Starter, ignition switch, or other?
Add a Ford Starter Relay and it's solved many rigs issue.
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- #5
I don't think that thread describes my issue. It cranks just fine, and it's not a "click" or silence. It's more like the sound of not getting fuel, plenty of cranking power but no firing up. Sometimes it fires right up, sometimes not. Letting it sit for a while (random between minutes and hours) usually solves it, leading me to assume it might be a heat issue, but then again, it's also not started after sitting for days...The electrical issue is that it seems to be correlated with the CEL not coming on at times in the ON position, but then there's also this radio sound issue that only happens on this rig, but not my other 94. I don't know if those are completely separate issues, or if there is a common electrical path that affects the CEL, the cranking with no start, and the radio sound?
I I’ve been ha ing this issue since replacing my leaking distributor with a non OEM version. Just ordered an OEM one to rectify it. I finally got mine to throw a code and it was 2 sensors that are both inside the dizzy. If you wiggle the black plug on the knockoff I have on it now it will start if it’s acting up.
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- #7
OK, thanks! I'll give that a shot.
I have been experiencing what you describe with my 93 FZJ. Most of the time, it starts fine, but all of a sudden, you go to crank it, no CEL, and won't start. I've changed fusible links and EFI relay, and still has the same problem. Today it was acting up again, and on a whim, I pulled the fuse under the dash, (I think it was a 10 amp ECU fuse. It was on the top right of the panel), and the CEL light came on, and the engine started. I didn't have time to investigate further, but I think I've narrowed down the problem. I wouild be interested to see if yours would act the same way when you pull that fuse.
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- #9
Figured out the radio issue. It's the DS door speaker magnet hitting/rubbing the window mechanism. For the starting issue, I replaced the fusible link and its been starting, but sometimes with a long crank, kinda like it's flooded or needs a choke. I still don't trust it, so we'll see if it holds up. If it happens again, I'll pull that ECU fuse.
I replaced my dizzy today with a used OEM one. Only time will tell if it solved my problem. I’ll check in the morning, that’s when it usually happens, perhaps my issue was exacerbated by the cold?
I run a 94 and suffered from intermittent starts for a long time before adding the relay. As time went on the intermittent starts became more frequent. Bypassed the stock wiring with this here:
Painless Performance Hot Shot Relays 30202
Not a single no-start since. Easy install.
Painless Performance Hot Shot Relays 30202
Not a single no-start since. Easy install.
PCGuy
SILVER Star
For others interested in installing the Painless 30202 kit, it requires splicing into the existing starter solenoid wire (black/red) which terminates at the starter into a removable black connector (push on the top of the connector and pull on the plug to remove). Several comments pointed out that splicing into this wire might defeat the purpose of the relay because you are still using the old wiring and connector.
I located a replacement Battery Solenoid Connector and was able to terminate the new Hot Shot Relay solenoid wire directly into the starter without splicing. Then the only splice required is from the starter solenoid wire to the Hot Shot Relay trigger wire.
I think this is a much more robust solution than using the original connector. It was $6.13 delivered.
I located a replacement Battery Solenoid Connector and was able to terminate the new Hot Shot Relay solenoid wire directly into the starter without splicing. Then the only splice required is from the starter solenoid wire to the Hot Shot Relay trigger wire.
I think this is a much more robust solution than using the original connector. It was $6.13 delivered.
