Idle issues

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Joined
Mar 4, 2003
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90
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I just got done swapping my engine in and got it running. The idle fluctuates from running high to low to dying. Most of the time it wants to idle high though. All of the vacuum lines are hooked up properly and I think the carb is ok. The other thing it does is a high pitch sound that is very annoying. It goes away when under a load or when the rpms get low enough that it wants to die. I have tried spraying some carb cleaner to see if I did have a vacuum leak but it doesn't change rpm. I am wondering if it is something in the smog equipment that is causing my problems. It does seem to have quite a bit of power when driving and doesn't backfire. Anyone have some experience with this?
 
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I know posting other threads is kinda lame, but I have no real carb experience (except eating too many!) There is some good stuff here, however, that you may have not seen, including some diode in the kick panel that you may not have considered. You can check it out until a pro posts up. Best of luck, man.
 
I know posting other threads is kinda lame, but I have no real carb experience (except eating too many!) There is some good stuff here, however, that you may have not seen, including some diode in the kick panel that you may not have considered. You can check it out until a pro posts up. Best of luck, man.

lol I have the same problem (eating too many carbs). Thanks for the links. I'm going to look into them tomorrow.
 
a whistling sound would generally means a vacuum leak. testing with a flammable gas is a good method, but not always effective. As some cases I have had.

a good place to start is with a vacuum gauge. measure manifold vacuum, and find out if there is a significant drop.

check your PCV valve.

if you can find a tube, (not hose) to join together the hoses for you BVSV's (essentially isolating the BVSV) you can eliminate the possibility of cracked or chaffed BVSV.

the egr system minus the actuator and BVSV wouldnt cause a whistling sound. if there was a leak it would be a loud exhaust sound.

I dont think that your engine has the Air Suction Reed Valve system. If it has those pipes along the exhaust manifold, it does. the sound emmiting from this system is normal, and is a low down humm.

The smog pump (air pump) is a system that could make this sound. I would start by removing the belt that drives the pump.

I have heard an annoying squeaking sound emit from my water pump once. drove me nuts till i figured it out. when i replaced my timing stuff, i put a NAPA pump on there. the POS NAPA pump made the sound. I ended up putting the OE one back on and problem solved. Its just something to look into.

another way of locating the source is using a stethoscope with out the sound diaphragm. just use the tube to probe around, and hopefully you will locate the source.
 
a whistling sound would generally means a vacuum leak. testing with a flammable gas is a good method, but not always effective. As some cases I have had.

a good place to start is with a vacuum gauge. measure manifold vacuum, and find out if there is a significant drop.

check your PCV valve.

if you can find a tube, (not hose) to join together the hoses for you BVSV's (essentially isolating the BVSV) you can eliminate the possibility of cracked or chaffed BVSV.

the egr system minus the actuator and BVSV wouldnt cause a whistling sound. if there was a leak it would be a loud exhaust sound.

I dont think that your engine has the Air Suction Reed Valve system. If it has those pipes along the exhaust manifold, it does. the sound emmiting from this system is normal, and is a low down humm.

The smog pump (air pump) is a system that could make this sound. I would start by removing the belt that drives the pump.

I have heard an annoying squeaking sound emit from my water pump once. drove me nuts till i figured it out. when i replaced my timing stuff, i put a NAPA pump on there. the POS NAPA pump made the sound. I ended up putting the OE one back on and problem solved. Its just something to look into.

another way of locating the source is using a stethoscope with out the sound diaphragm. just use the tube to probe around, and hopefully you will locate the source.

My pcv valve was bad because it started throwing out blue smoke after a few minutes of running so I swapped that and the smoke went away. My engine does have the air suction reed valve system. I don't know if it was suppose to with that year or not. How much of the vacuum system gets eliminated with the weber carb swap? I'm thinking that I do have a leak somewhere not around the carb. I have gone over everything and haven't noticed anything cracked or unhooked. I did go over the vacuum diagrams that I have and everything was hooked up properly. I am really considering just doing the weber carb as long as it eliminates a bunch of crap that I don't need.
 
oh, now you mention you got a webber :flipoff2:
check the FAQ, i did a vacuum hose hook up video.

make sure the three screw holding the choke coil housing are all tight, and you must have all three installed.
the lower of the three seals a vacuum port.
 
there are plenty of lines that will be eliminated. the main reason why i i strayed away from a 22R, or any carb'd toy engine, is cause the hose mess.

I know i could get it all hooked up right, granted i has the proper diagram, but so far, I have not seen a decent diagram, and I have just been fortunate enuff to never of owned one of these stock carb'd engines.

on your temperature sensor, there are two hoses that hook to it. remember to isolate that sensor as a cause for leak too.
 
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