HVLP question

[ar2stp48]

Got the rust and fender dings fixed this weekend on the 72 FJ40; a friend who works at a local body shop came out and did the work---swapped a 67 VW project car for the work.
He primed with HVLP gun. Knowing I was planning enamel for final coat, he said the HVLP was not a good choice for enamel. I was planning on buying the gun from Harbor Freight mentioned in earlier thread. He was spraying with a Sharpe platinum gun and I know that is in a far different range.
Any comments? I have small 2hp compressor with 30 gal tank; and access to the community---several collectors---shop compressor that is 5 hp/ 60 gal tank.

 

[amandap]

I am also a newbie in the painting department, but here's what I've learned that might help you out. I bought a $140 Carquest HVLP gun with a standard 1.4mm nozzle. Carquest is the cheapest I've found for mixing up PPG paints and appropriate primers. Make sure you know the paint system you have started with ie. brand name. Stay within the same system of products or you can have major screw-ups. I've used the cheapo gun for single stage acrylic enamels and two stage paints and primers and clear coats with acceptable results. I suppose if I were a real painter I would see a difference, but within hobbyist talent levels, it all worked out well. I'm sure we did a bit more wet sanding between coats than a pro would require but all came out beautifully...tons of work! Anybody selling you paint should be able to steer you right in the product compatibility area. All paints have a spec sheet that tells you how long to wait between coats(flash time) and how long before tape can be applied, time to dry compatible reducers, hardeners and additives...you need these sheets to know what all the chemistry is, ask for them and expect mixing cups and strainers as a throw in...standard stuff but some places won't give them to you unless you know to ask. Make sure you know what type and brand primer was used in order to buy compatible color. Use a good respirator and cover your skin. hth

 

[Steve C]

Are you talking about the turbine powered HVLP guns.

I have an accuspray turbine setup, and it seems to work good. I bought it before I bought my air compressor, and it is a good alternative for someone who dosen't want a big compressor.

You can get compressor powered spray guns in HVLP or non-hvlp. I've heard that to get a good HVLP gun, it's best to stick with the big brands, but I don't know. Both need lots of cool, dry air (which is another topic).

my feeling, with several "back yard' paint projects under my belt, is that if you can get the paint on reasonably well; then almost all the defects can be taken out with 1500 grit wetsanding and polishing.

If you are only ever going to paint one car, I am firmly convinced that you could get an acceptable result with a $39.99 non-hvlp home depot or lowes touch up gun, and a small compressor.

 

[cruiserbrett]

go to spraygunworld.com and get an astro pnuematic HLVP gun. I did the paint on my FJ40 and it is a clone of some very nice SATA guns, just way cheaper. Practice with the gun, get the air pressure, spray pattern, solvent selcetion etc. down B4 you think of spraying the final coats. I did my part by part(dumb) and you can tell I was getting better as things went on.

Learn the motion of the gun, air hose management, solvent selection/amount for orange peel and solvent pop reduction etc. Its a learning experience, one where the outcome will be a happy but tired FJ40 owner that will NEVER balk at the the $2500 paint jobs again. From the ground up, bodywork, primer and paint is a lot of work. What looks good in primer doesnt always look good with a nice shiny reflective paint...

 

[ar2stp48]

Thanks for the info; I will certainly check out the leads on those guns. The Sharpe was spraying at 20 psi input for the primer. Mike was explaining about 20 psi input but only 12 psi at the tip for primer and to shoot final coat he shot at 60 psi input pressure. Got a lot to learn but want to do as much of the work as I can at least through primer and have it ready for final paint.