Hub Nut/ stud stripped

[Cruiser_Nut]

I think this is my first post on mud. been a lurker for a couple years benefitting from all the great knowledge available in the 80's section.

My past cruisers have been 81-FJ-40, 78 FJ-40, another 81 FJ-40 and a 92 FJ-80.

I currently own a 96' FZJ-80 and have been involved in upgrading to 4.88 R&P and thought I would do full axle rebuild while I was there.

In Reassembling one of the hubs last night I mistakenly torqued one of the hub/drive plate cone washer nuts to 34 ft-lbs when it should have been 24. the first one didnt care but the second one stripped :whoops: . Rotating CCW to go backwards nothing happens. dont know if the stud and/or the nut stripped but i was looking for a way to get the nut off without damaging the stud if possible. ( in the small chance that the stud doesn't need to be replaced. )

I dont have much experience with stripped nuts/bolts so any help is much appreciated.

 

[Cruiser_Nut]

Clairification: the threads are stripped not the hex portion of the nut.

 

[Rookie2]

The studs are easy to strip because they are basically torqued to yield. I'm supprised you actually got 34 ft-lbs on one... may want to have your torque wrench checked. I'm pretty sure you're going to need a new stud, and I'd get a few extras while you're at it. It's just one of those things you'll need to replace from time to time if you are in and out of the hub much.

The way I removed the nut the last time this happened, was cut through it as much as I could with a dremel then busted it off with a screw driver. I'm not sure how you could do it without buggering the threads.



Rookie2

 

[ScottsHZJ80]

The way I have done it in the past is to put another nut on the end of the stud then undo the first one that was just spinning on the stud, locking it onto the 2nd one, then undoing them both. Obviously this will only work if there is enough stud at the end to put another nut on!

The stud, cone washer and nut are available as a set. I normally have 6 in the tool box just in case.

FWIW I'd say the stud is stuffed unfortunately.

 

[Rookie2]

The stud, cone washer and nut are available as a set.

FWIW, I know C-dan sales them individually. His local T-dealer "may" have them on hand. Worth a try anyhoo.


Rookie2

 

[Cruiser_Nut]

I'm supprised you actually got 34 ft-lbs on one... may want to have your torque wrench checked.


Rookie2

This one was my fault. the light was dim and I thought it was at 20 and 4 not the 30 and 4 that it was.

Calling the dealer now....


1.75 for the stud and 0.65 for the nut.

 

[Reachej]

So I have done the same thing now only the stud is for sure done for. Can someone fill me in on the best way to replace the stud?

 

[cvenom96]

If you can get two nuts on it that's the easiest but otherwise a pair of vice grips and work it off. May be easier to remove the adjacent studs so you have more room to maneuver.

 

[Reachej]

Just to clarify, we're talking about removing the stud, not the nut right? When installing the new ones are they just hand tight?

 

[cvenom96]

No worries. So, with the locking plate off, run one nut on and leave enough thread to run a second nut on. Tighten the two together and then put the wrench on the inner nut to remove.

 

[Reachej]

No worries. So, with the locking plate off, run one nut on and leave enough thread to run a second nut on. Tighten the two together and then put the wrench on the inner nut to remove.

Got it. Much appreciated.

EJ