How to remove rust best?? (1 Viewer)

[fjatheart]

What is the best way to remove and treat rust to stop the rust from coming back?

I'm planning to remove, treat and paint a frame. The body, frame, etc. is still attached.

Is it alright to wire wheel the flaky stuff, then treat, clean and lastly apply something like Rust Bullet?

IF SO, what treatment is best to "kill" the rust?

Thanks,
Trae

 

[langtown]

While there is a few good products that protect new steel very well if prepped properly I have yet to use a product on a rusty piece that I would trust more than just cutting it out and replacing it.

I hope this helps

Mike

 

[fjatheart]

Thanks, but that is not an option in this case. I'm talking surface rust that a car lot painted over and now bubbled up.

 

[fjatheart]

What are you guys thoughts on media blasting a frame and axle housing when the body and all the components are still attached? Can you ever tape and mask off enough to keep blasting material from getting in places it shouldn't, ie: brakes, bearings, intakes, etc?

Thank you!

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[Zack1978]

The problem as I see it with the frame is that you can't paint or even clean the boxed sections very well. For that reason I keep toying with the idea of galvanizing.

Zack

 

[fjatheart]

Interesting thought, but I'm not sure I could do that unless I disassembled the car.

I took a second look at the problem spots with my Dad and it's all surface rust, mainly on the welds.

It looks like we'll be able to wheel it off, treat, clean and por-15 everything. The inside of the frame is clean and smooth.

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[langsen]

The problem as I see it with the frame is that you can't paint or even clean the boxed sections very well. For that reason I keep toying with the idea of galvanizing.

Zack

How much is galvanizing near you? I was considering getting my frame galvanized and the quote I got earlier this year was $0.60 / pound. Add another $0.30 / pound for stripping if it's not already clean metal, so basically $0.90 / pound. Seemed too expensive for me.

 

[Soul_Man]

If you have the body off, you should be able to use a wire wheel. If you can have someone with a large media blaster do it, that would be the easiest..... I think I mis-read your first post, I thought you were doing a body off (by "remove, treat and paint a frame" I thought you meant remove the frame, but you mean just remove the rust(?)

I took my frame and had it dipped (I'd have to double check where, but I know it was a 5+ hour drive) and that stripped ALL the undercoat, paint and rust (had some blasted after I removed the bad rear sections.., and then I had it hot dip galvanized after I did all my repairs (rear channel etc.)

Here's my link: https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/81592-frame-frames.html

Galvanizing it only cost $250. $400 to strip it. Seems like a bargin to me the be able to get into all the boxed sections with a strip and galvanize......

 

[Madequecham]

You should be able to get in there with the wire wheel and get rid of most of it. POR-15 works very good if the prep is right. I think this is your best bet with out pulling off the body.

 

[fjatheart]

After about 20hrs of prep,application, sore backs and POR stained hands my Dad and I got the rust ground off, treated and cover with POR-15!

Besides taking the body off and sandblasting, I don't see how a better job could have been done.

Thanks for the input!

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[Swamp fox]

Fjatheart can explain what you used to "treat" and how you cleaned it? Also, how is the POR15 holding up?

 

[Mick Feisty]

In


...via IH8MUD app

 

[warpdriv]

I wire wheel it down, http://www.eastwood.com/rust-encapsulator-28601.html, then go from there.