Pulled the canister and air blows through easily on one port but there is resistance on the other. Air still goes through just not as freely as the other. Should there be no resistance on either?
How much resistance should there be on the charcoal canister?
- Thread starter fj40z
- Start date
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There is a spring loaded check valve in the CC Tank port so there has to be more resistance to air flow on that port compared to the Purge port....which doesn't have one.
But the manual says that air should flow through both ports without resistance.
I think that's BS. So go figure.
To test whether that damn check valve is working well enough or not, see what happens when you release the (good) fuel cap under different circumstances.
If there is a big whoosh of air ever when releasing the fuel cap, that damn check valve is not playing nice. A tiny tank burp is ok (and desirable).
The purpose of the check valve in the CC is to prevent wonton evaporation of the fuel in the tank as the tank heats and cools each day. So a little back pressure is good. But so much that it distorts the fuel tank obviously is bad.
The reason the 60 and 62 fuel tanks got recalled is because that damn check valve malfunctions and over pressurizes the tank, causing seams to break ... creating leaks.
But the manual says that air should flow through both ports without resistance.
I think that's BS. So go figure.
To test whether that damn check valve is working well enough or not, see what happens when you release the (good) fuel cap under different circumstances.
If there is a big whoosh of air ever when releasing the fuel cap, that damn check valve is not playing nice. A tiny tank burp is ok (and desirable).
The purpose of the check valve in the CC is to prevent wonton evaporation of the fuel in the tank as the tank heats and cools each day. So a little back pressure is good. But so much that it distorts the fuel tank obviously is bad.
The reason the 60 and 62 fuel tanks got recalled is because that damn check valve malfunctions and over pressurizes the tank, causing seams to break ... creating leaks.
- Thread starter
- #3
That's what I was wandering, there has to be some resistance to open up the check valve if not the valve would just stay open. Makes me think mine is ok. I've checked the lines that go to the canister and air flows through them freely, I've checked the lines in the rear quarter panel by the filler neck visually and they look fine, none collapsed or anything. I guess I'm going to have to pull them and make sure. I am getting some crazy pressure build up when I unscrew the gas cap, just can't figure out why. Thanks for the input @Output Shaft
Instead of blowing up your tank, swap the hoses on the CC. No more pressure.
- Thread starter
- #5
Could you elaborate a little more for a idiot?
There are 3 hoses on the charcoal canister for the 2F engine. Ignore the big one with the electric valve on it.
One of the small hoses leads to the tank vapor vent on the firewall, the other hose leads around the back of the engine to a valve on the driver's side inner fender.
Swap the two small hoses that plug into the top of my the charcoal canister. When you do that, the tank venting will flow freely through the non-check valve port of the CC, and the Purge hose will essentially not really work anymore because it will be sucking against the check valve.
But that isn't anything too significant to worry about. Sucking vapors out of the CC is an emissions requirement.
If you really wanted to do it super duper right, the jetting of the carbuerator A/F mixture takes into account this extra air that normally gets injected into the manifold when the throttle is pressed down, so just swapping hoses on the CC will make the engine run a tad richer than otherwise.
So for ultimate fuel economy (optimized leaner mixture), you could just install a small air filter on the Purge hose leading around the back of the engine, and cap off the TANK pipe on the CC.
But most guys just switch hoses then crack open a beer and call it a day.
One of the small hoses leads to the tank vapor vent on the firewall, the other hose leads around the back of the engine to a valve on the driver's side inner fender.
Swap the two small hoses that plug into the top of my the charcoal canister. When you do that, the tank venting will flow freely through the non-check valve port of the CC, and the Purge hose will essentially not really work anymore because it will be sucking against the check valve.
But that isn't anything too significant to worry about. Sucking vapors out of the CC is an emissions requirement.
If you really wanted to do it super duper right, the jetting of the carbuerator A/F mixture takes into account this extra air that normally gets injected into the manifold when the throttle is pressed down, so just swapping hoses on the CC will make the engine run a tad richer than otherwise.
So for ultimate fuel economy (optimized leaner mixture), you could just install a small air filter on the Purge hose leading around the back of the engine, and cap off the TANK pipe on the CC.
But most guys just switch hoses then crack open a beer and call it a day.
- Thread starter
- #7
@Output Shaft Worked like a champ! Thanks for clarifying, I kept reading to "swap" my lines at the canister and I was taking that as replace the lines at the canister. Yes, I am that dumb. Thank you sir!