How Do I Remove Center Diff Lock Actuator

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MH_Stevens

MH_Stevens

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I need remove for test my center diff lock actuator (2003 LC100). I see several threads on what to do once it is on the bench but I can't see anything on how to get up on top of the t-case to unbolt it and get it out. I notice there is a floor panel above it that can be accessed by removing the center console. Is that the way to go?

I need look at it because it clicks but lock will not engage while VSC OFF and VSC TRAC warning lights give a code 47 - open circuit in diff lock.

Thanks
 
MH_Stevens said:
I need remove for test my center diff lock actuator (2003 LC100). I see several threads on what to do once it is on the bench but I can't see anything on how to get up on top of the t-case to unbolt it and get it out. I notice there is a floor panel above it that can be accessed by removing the center console. Is that the way to go? I need look at it because it clicks but lock will not engage while VSC OFF and VSC TRAC warning lights give a code 47 - open circuit in diff lock. Thanks
Click to expand...

It is normal behavior not to engage until you have some motion (depending on how the gears line up). It may be just the Sensor that is open circuit. Have you put it in motion and seen if it is engaged or not.
 
To remove the actuator, you:
1- Support the vehicle on jack stands;
2- support the gearbox with a jack, and a wooden plate between;
3- remove the crossmember under the gearbox/transfer (4 bolts each end, 2 nuts center);
4- jack down the gearbox/engine assembly a bit. (the gear-selector will change out of Park, so don't rely on it to keep it from rolling, - in case you skipped point 1...) It will stop on the anti roll bar;
5- unplug the breather hose and the plug. Undo 4 small bolts with hex head. When removing, take care not to drop the gear sitting between the actuator and the box.
1/2 hr start to finish.

The two outer pins of the plug are for the motor, the three center are for the end-stops.
You can also measure the actuator through the plug to the CDL-relay sitting behind the RHS kick panel, but it's not much less work, as it's fiddly to get the relay/plug out from behind there.
 
uHu- Still not sure just where these 4 bolts are or if I have droped gearbox enough. I'm a but scared to drop too far!

Do you or anyone have a PICTURE or mere detail about finding the actuator bolts?
 
Transmission Will Not Drop to get to CDL Actuator

I'm following uHu's instructions for removing the CDL actuator, but after removing the cross member the transmission DOES NOT DROP but about 2 inches - not nearly enough to get to the actuator.

What am i doing wrong? 2003 LC100.
 
It's best to keep your CDL issues in one thread so people can better understand what exactly you are trying to achieve.

If you want to test the actuator motor, just pull the electrical connector and use a 9V battery to power the motor for short intervals. Listen for the motor/gears. You can hear it when you're close to it.
 
Thanks but I know (58%) there is an issue in the motor - I need get it out for repair.

My other post was just about diagnosis. I suppose I could have ammended this to uHu's post (as it is sort of a responce to that) but I though that tread might have been to old to follow up on. Sorry if I offended.

To summarize; Why does my transmission not drop like uHu said it would/ That's my question and it's a new one.
 
I pulled the CDL on my 80 a long time ago and I imagine it to be the similar on the 100. You have to work within the confines of the little space provided. The motor mounts, exhaust and etc are preventing the t-case from dropping down further than those 2" or so.
 
-think the bolts are 10 mm heads.
Might need new fipg for assembly.

CDL actuator.webp
 
Thanks uHu - bolts are 12mm on mine - but my problem is (and I started a new thread on this and got canned for it) the TC only dropped 2 inches and I just cant get in there. You instructions imply it drops down to give enough room to work - in fact you talk about not letting the TC drop TOO FAR!

Please clarify how far a drop I can expect and do you know why mine droped so little?

thanks
 
I definitely replaced my locker actuator without lowering the t case. Wish I had known you could before doing so though!
 
The CENTER locker! Just how did you get in there? Did you leave the cross member in place? My son who was trying to help wanted to remove the exhaust system as well.
 
I borrowed my uncles shop and put it on a lift so I could fully contort my skinny a** and work in the space up there. Didn't take anything else off except for two other plugs. Worked quite well but I didn't preload the locker when I installed it the first time so I had to do it twice!!!
 
Thanks College - you give me some hope. Thoses lifts really help.
 
Yeah. If you can get two people under the thing and lift it onto stands you should have enough hands in there to help position the wrenches. Good luck! -Ryan
 
MH_Stevens said:
Thanks uHu - bolts are 12mm on mine - but my problem is (and I started a new thread on this and got canned for it) the TC only dropped 2 inches and I just cant get in there. You instructions imply it drops down to give enough room to work - in fact you talk about not letting the TC drop TOO FAR!

Please clarify how far a drop I can expect and do you know why mine droped so little?

thanks
Click to expand...
Yes, well, the uzj is a bit more complicated than the hdj in this matter, I understand. I just take off the crossmember, and drop until the "clutch housing" touches the anti-roll bar.
 
You wern't talking about a 100!!!!!!!

This stuff is easy on my 80 but the 100 is a whole new kettle of overly engineered soccer mom piece of electronic fish . Anyway - I did finally get the bolts out - now for lifying out the unit.
 
MH_Stevens said:
You wern't talking about a 100!!!!!!!
Click to expand...
Yes, a 100 - the most common type of 100 series - the HDJ100. Only in the US the UZJ100 is the standard. The main difference when it comes to lowering the transmission is that you have an extra exhaust pipe crossing in that area somewhere.
 
If I remember correctly you have to make sure the gear that the locker goes into stays in the top of the t case to get the locker out, otherwise there isn't enough clearance to get it out w the gear sticking out of it.
 
I have an open circuit motor and have sourced a replacement motor to fit but how do you synchronise the motor with the CDL lock cog?
Vehicle is a manual and I'm fitting the actuator whilst the transfer case is still in the vehicle but dropped down by lowering the cross member.

The manual states to have the CDL locked when removing or installing the actuator but my motor blew whilst the CDL was unlocked.
Also, surely the motor is at rest in its unlocked state?
Additionally the motor travel limits are set within the motor so conceivably you can have the motor installed to a box that is not set to the correct position which must cause problems.
All a bit contradictory and confusing.

What have you guys done to synchronise the two when installing the motor unit?
 
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