Hino diesel engine?

[Woofythewolf]

My family has a 2006 Mercedes sprinter 2500 (extra high, extended to 22') with the 2.7L I5 giving 280 ft/lbs of torque and even at ~11,000 lbs it does 22mpg avg with our driving and has semi-decent power (would be enough for the lighter LC).

That would be my best possible choice, but again there is the typical computer complexities (which disqualifies it immediately), and aftermarket diesel ECUs are more than I plan on spending on the entire swap ($2k-$3k).

My main issue is finding a vehicle that's been in a bad enough wreck that the price is low enough for me to buy it (like a rollover , something where the front end isn't too badly damaged).-that's why I had gotten really hopeful with that Hino earlier (it had rolled and then made a hard landing, completely smashing all the suspension and even denting flat spots on the wheels, but the cab and front were were in decent enough shape) then some research led to how tall those are and I definitely don't want any body lift, or common rail electronics.

Edit: just finished reading your thread, and here in the US, (specifically in my state of California) we have ridiculously stringent smog control laws, all the smog equipment from the donor truck (egr, particulate filter, Urea injection if it had it) must be kept and fully functioning in the new vehicle. The donor truck must also be the same or newer model year be 50-state smog certified (some are only 48-state and cannot be registered here), and then you have to take it to a referee who inspects the conversion and decides if it passes or fails (have to hope you get a lenient inspector).

 

[Tugarin]

My family has a 2006 Mercedes sprinter 2500 (extra high, extended to 22') with the 2.7L I5 giving 280 ft/lbs of torque and even at ~11,000 lbs it does 22mpg avg with our driving and has semi-decent power (would be enough for the lighter LC).

Compare the sprinter and LC - in weight, payload and etc. Sprinter does more job.

Secondly all American versions of CDI engines have 20 to 25% less power comparing to European counterparts for unknown reasons.

Personally I would never buy the engine from wreck, I will explain you why. Mostly in accident engine from full speed comes to stop in a blink of an eye. Causing tremendous stress on all inner moving parts mostly on crankshaft. I have seen cracked crankshafts from wrecks, engines were supposedly in good shape. Not knowing what accident it went through it is always game of hit and miss.

If you are really want diesel in California (I have heard about your restrictions), there is no choice - either you go with stock 1HD-T/FT or only CRD engines will make you pass your smoke test. Or another option: there are many diesel techs, you can put WO4TD and choke it, turning down fuel supply, while you will be passing the smoke test. It is kind of cheating though.

 

[Woofythewolf]

Very good point on the crashed vehicle having damaged internals-will want to make sure the engine is start certified (copart auctions does this, as well as a starts and drives certified).

I was kinda thinking of a combination of slightly turning down fuel (it's doing a lot less work so won't really matter) and maybe a diy supercharger with an air compressor (belt driven) charging a tank of air (if the donor truck had air brakes that makes this easier) that releases when you press the accelerator at a fast enough rate (via yet another arduino and a potentiometer) to compensate for the turbo spool up and clean up emissions when accelerating.

 

[Tugarin]

Me thinks if it is one time cheating turn the fuel down and install particulate filter from modern truck - you will have very clean exhaust. After you just take it off.

 

[Woofythewolf]

I agree with that except the particulate filters are insanely expensive. I had heard of disposable ones but haven't researched it yet. to make it easier to change them (would have to put it back on for biannual inspection) I could put flanges and make it an easily accessible spot to just bolt it on/off. that way the disposable (presumably cheaper) will last a lot longer since it'll only get used on inspection days.

However, I would prefer to try and have it pass without the PF at all, just to simplify things a lot. (the PF would be my first backup)

With the supercharger (if it even works, which is kinda doubtful, but I'll be testing it with free parts from my school's autoshop so who cares) hopefully it'll make better use of the fuel in it burning completely and giving more power/efficiency (the idea of this conversion is for better fuel efficiency, don't really care about power that much). burning it more completely will also improve emissions, hopefully enough that it will pass without buying the PF. (I really want to do this as cheap as possible with what I have available, and avoid buying other stuff)

found a GM W5500 that's start-certified.

(this made by Isuzu and has the 4HE1, so perfect for me)
has 29 days left so guess its time to wait.
-note: have plenty of spare flexplates from a variety of vehicles to make a starter like astr's.

 

[Tugarin]

Good engine, good luck with start.

 

[Woofythewolf]

Missed that auction, the price got up to 3k. So now I have a new plan, and one that will get my parents to help pay for it (cause my brother will get the 80 and they don't have to buy him a car).

Shorten the Isuzu (<21' is my requirement so I can still park it easily), and convert it to 4wd with dana 60s front and rear (would go dana 80 rear but at $100 from my shop teacher I just can't pass up that good of a deal, and I don't need much for weight)

I plan on using the HF2AV, and rebuilding the transmission using the new output shaft/parking pawl etc. (not sure how I will set up the parking brake yet, as the Isuzu has it mounted on back of the TC, I will probably end up using the rear axle's drum brakes)

The 60's will have the original 4.1:1 ratios (everyone else is going higher so ebay is flooded with cheap 4.1:1s that nobody wants) and while I've forgotten the AW450s exact overdrive, I know it is slightly higher than the a440f (which is .717); with 33" tires, 4.1:1 diffs, and .7 overdrive (guessing?), I'm at 2046 rpm cruising @ 70 mph. Simple RPM Calculator | RANDYS Worldwide

with the HF2AV, I'll get the VC (good for snow which is important to me), and I can use a switch on top of the TC shift lever to turn the locker on and off, regardless of whether I'm in high or low.

Will make a dedicated build thread for this when it gets off the ground, but one main thing that troubles me is whether the HF2AV will handle the weight.
I think it will be fine because it's still a relatively weak engine compared to some of the swaps people do, but a few more opinions would be good. (when I'm done it will probably weight ~9,000lbs with the camper, and maybe occasional light towing)
My other T-case option is a divorced NP205 in my autoshop class, but the teacher wants to keep that one for teaching because of it's relative simplicity.