Hi Lift experience

[80t0ylc]

Driveway tested my new sliders with the the Hi-Lift. Man, the 80 is a heavy beast! Especially lifting the whole side off the ground. I need a longer handle for more leverage. Easily done with the right size steel pipe.

I'd like to offer a suggestion about packing a Hi-Lift. I carry mine dis-assembled for ease of stowage, plus some other benefits. And I keep it inside, out of the elements. But, you could just keep the running gear assy. (that's what my Hi-Lift manual calls the assy that moves up & down the bar) inside. You have to remove the foot or base to take it off the bar, so you could stow foot and running gear, minus the handle, inside. This simplifies packing the bar and handle. I can easily assemble/dis-assemble my Hi-Lift in a couple of minutes and the only small, easily lost pieces are the 2 cotter pins that secure the handle and foot. And we all carry spare cotter pins, right? This also gave me the idea to just order a 60" bar, instead of whining about my 48" bar not being long enough.

 

[cruiser88]

I use these to hold the handles to the jack....they also work great on all kinds of other items
Cabela's -- Quick Fist® One-Piece Rubber Clamp

They also have great other high lift items.

Driveway tested my new sliders with the the Hi-Lift. Man, the 80 is a heavy beast! Especially lifting the whole side off the ground. I need a longer handle for more leverage. Easily done with the right size steel pipe.

I'd like to offer a suggestion about packing a Hi-Lift. I carry mine dis-assembled for ease of stowage, plus some other benefits. And I keep it inside, out of the elements. But, you could just keep the running gear assy. (that's what my Hi-Lift manual calls the assy that moves up & down the bar) inside. You have to remove the foot or base to take it off the bar, so you could stow foot and running gear, minus the handle, inside. This simplifies packing the bar and handle. I can easily assemble/dis-assemble my Hi-Lift in a couple of minutes and the only small, easily lost pieces are the 2 cotter pins that secure the handle and foot. And we all carry spare cotter pins, right? This also gave me the idea to just order a 60" bar, instead of whining about my 48" bar not being long enough.

 

[80t0ylc]

I use these to hold the handles to the jack....they also work great on all kinds of other items
Cabela's -- Quick Fist® One-Piece Rubber Clamp

They also have great other high lift items.

Excellent idea! My thoughts were to suggest dis-assembling for 3 reasons.

First: Keep the running gear inside, away from dust and moisture. Corrosion and grit from dust sticking to whatever lube that you use to maintain it are the Hi-Lifts worst enemies. This way when you pull it out to use, it should be in excellent condition.
Second: Stowing the handle and bar is now more streamlined. No awkward pieces hanging off to complicate location. Mounting to bullbar, roof rack, swingout or anywhere, even inside, is neater, smaller and quieter (no rattles).
Third: If bolted to a mount outside, now is less of a target for theft. Most would be thieves might not even notice just a handle or bar, even if they were strapped together,

 

[rusty_tlc]

Excellent idea! My thoughts were to suggest dis-assembling for 3 reasons.

First: Keep the running gear inside, away from dust and moisture. Corrosion and grit from dust sticking to whatever lube that you use to maintain it are the Hi-Lifts worst enemies. This way when you pull it out to use, it should be in excellent condition.
Second: Stowing the handle and bar is now more streamlined. No awkward pieces hanging off to complicate location. Mounting to bullbar, roof rack, swingout or anywhere, even inside, is neater, smaller and quieter (no rattles).
Third: If bolted to a mount outside, now is less of a target for theft. Most would be thieves might not even notice just a handle or bar, even if they were strapped together,

I've seen it suggested on other forums to store Hi-Lift head inside and the bar/handle outside, for all the reasons mentioned.

 

[Bogo]

A warning about hi-lift type jacks. The area between the handle and bar is dangerous when in use. If your hand slips off the handle, the handle will very quickly swing up and slap against the bar. Any body part like hands, fingers, head will get struck, and struck hard. I've heard of many broken fingers and hands. If you have to hold the top of the jack when using it, you need to hold it so your hand, thumb and fingers are not on the handle side of the bar.

 

[cruiser88]

I have this kit also............helps to keep from slipping

Cabela's -- Hi-Lift Off Road Kit

and this
http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/t... lift&cm_ite=netcon&rid=2146251080&hasJS=true

 

[Wile E Coyote]

I figure I've pulled my old Dodge a total of at least 300 ft in the years I had the jack and wheeled that truck. I lived in SE GA at the time, and played in the mud often. On the Cruiser, it's been used twice. Once as a jack, and once as a winch for about 20 ft.

 

[Cañonero]

? This also gave me the idea to just order a 60" bar, instead of whining about my 48" bar not being long enough. [/SIZE]

I'm doubting between the 48" and the 60" model. My 80 is lifted about 3".

I can't see many situations when I will need the extra 12", at least as a jack, do you?. I'd get the 60" but you know the 48" just fits perfectly in the back of the 80's boot, and with the 60" I'd have to store it diagonally, which takes lots of space. I don't have roofrack and just removed the bullbar (the thing weighed almost 100 pounds) so I have no choice.

Also, I had removed the towing bar as I don't have anything to tow, but I'm thinking into installing it back (just removing the ball) to have a place to use the hilift in the back. I have a new bumper hilift compatible in the front, but nothing in the back, and also no sliders.

How do you like the towing bar to use the winch?. This is quite strong and square so I believe could be ok.

 

[80t0ylc]

I'm doubting between the 48" and the 60" model. My 80 is lifted about 3".

I can't see many situations when I will need the extra 12", at least as a jack, do you?.....

With the suspension travel that the 80 has, I'm going to carry a 60" bar, just in case, for some trips. You're correct, IMHO, not very often would you need the 60", but I'll have it if I need it. I haven't checked the price yet, but considering the cost of the entire jack, it should be reasonable.

..... I'd get the 60" but you know the 48" just fits perfectly in the back of the 80's boot, and with the 60" I'd have to store it diagonally, which takes lots of space. I don't have roofrack and just removed the bullbar (the thing weighed almost 100 pounds) so I have no choice.....

Again, you've got an excellent point. Stowing the 60" bar in the interior of the 80, is a problem. Its just slightly too long to put on the floor, just in front of the middle seat. If the middle seat is used, its awkward to put in the back. It would fit much better outside.

.....Also, I had removed the towing bar as I don't have anything to tow, but I'm thinking into installing it back (just removing the ball) to have a place to use the hilift in the back. I have a new bumper hilift compatible in the front, but nothing in the back, and also no sliders.....

With no sliders, about the only use for a Hi-Lift on the sides would be with the wheel adapter.

......How do you like the towing bar to use the winch?. This is quite strong and square so I believe could be ok.

Yes, I agree. A properly mounted tow hitch would be strong enough to winch from and also jack from if you have the right adapter to attach the jack to. However, great care and caution must always be taken when using the Hi-Lift. Mistakes can be costly in both life and property.

 

[Tackleberry]

oh yes....its the real thing. me bending the other ones I have had in the past I can see.....my fault totally but this one............**** I was floored. Now its not trash....**** I can bend it back out and use it as a winch(light weight speaking) but it will never take any downward force again.

Check the Hi-Lift web site, they make 2 or 3 diferent types of climbing beams for the running gear to ride on mine is the 48" all cast iron model #HL-485 so far Im happy with it.

Adam,

 

[canman]

I bought one last year, but have yet to use it. The president of the club I wheel with recommends against using it for safety reasons. I work for the military on veh procurement, and a fellow worker (ex MWO) told me he saw someone get their jaw broken by the handle. As others have stated caution should be taken when using this thing.

 

[e9999]

if you store the running gear inside, you might want to make sure it's latched down properly. That thing is heavy and in an accident might bash your head in.

I would think one could get the 60" and if it proves too long, nothing that a cutoff wheel or reciprocating saw could not handle quickly.

 

[greentruck]

I bought one last year, but have yet to use it. The president of the club I wheel with recommends against using it for safety reasons. I work for the military on veh procurement, and a fellow worker (ex MWO) told me he saw someone get their jaw broken by the handle. As others have stated caution should be taken when using this thing.

Use carefully, that's for sure. It is one of the more unforgiving tools, but also capable of helping in situations where virtually nothing else will do.

If you've never used one before, get some practice in non-stressful scenarios first. It's power up and power down and you supply the power in competition with gravity. I learned on the farm and I still have all my fingers, knock on wood. But it must be used with great respect and care.

e9999 is correct. If you need a custom size, the Hi Lift jack can easily be cut to size with a hacksaw. I had to cut off about 4" of one I had mounted in my trooper to make it fit in the safety mount in the cargo area. Still was useful, taller is generally better for stuck situation, but sometimes can also be too tall. Choose your own length so long as it's 60" or less.

 

[Adams06]

This weekend the Hi-Lift saved my ass. I was going over a log when my front axel got caught on the log. When my buddy tried to pull me out, he just couldnt do it becasue of the catch on the log... So luckily we came across a group of guys with a hi-lift. I dont have sliders or an ARB bumper, so the only place to jack it from was the front frame (right under the tow hook).

The best part about using it was that I didnt even need to jack it up, the guy was nice enough to do it for me. But man, that thing is scary just watching it. So he eventually jacked the axel up off the log, then my buddy gave me a tug and I was off the log, and the hi-lift just fell to the ground.

So that was defiantly an instance where the hi-lift saved me. But even the guys who had the jack said they didnt like using it. But if it wasnt for the hi-lift, my 80 may still be there now. I guess the main point of this story is dont be afraid to use it, but be careful with it.

 

[madinal]

I keep mine inside. I put 12.5 x 5 x 75 mm bolts through the slanted part of my 1979 FJ40 wheel wells. I used fneder washers on each side and a nut on the inside to hold the bolt. I then put bushings I took out of out shocks over the bolts, then the jack and then spare lug nuts to hold it snug. I keep the handle snug to the bar with a muffler hanger I carved up. I strapped a shovel to the bar with bungees. This setup keeps the jack and acts as the front of my bed for anything that might slide around.

 

[77TLCFJ40]

I keep mine inside. I put 12.5 x 5 x 75 mm bolts through the slanted part of my 1979 FJ40 wheel wells. I used fneder washers on each side and a nut on the inside to hold the bolt. I then put bushings I took out of out shocks over the bolts, then the jack and then spare lug nuts to hold it snug. I keep the handle snug to the bar with a muffler hanger I carved up. I strapped a shovel to the bar with bungees. This setup keeps the jack and acts as the front of my bed for anything that might slide around.

Do you have a pic of your mounting system? Thanks

 

[madinal]

Inside rack for hi-lift

I finally got around to taking the seats out and getting some pictures. I also changed out the 75mm bolt for a 50mm and cut one of the shock bushings in half. This cuts down on the movement. The stack up is M12x1.5x50mm bolt, 2 inch fender washer, WHEEL WELL, 2 inch fender washer, lock wacher, jam nut, regular washer, half of shock bushing, JACK, (spare) lug nut.

Of course, this onlhy works for the 48 inch jack.

[/IMG]

 

[GRM]

I have more high-lift experiences than I can count. I literally have used it hundreds of times for everything from putting up fences, to winching trucks, to changing a tire. Also the handle makes one heck of a good breaker bar extension.

I've made a few modifications to mine: I have a 60" All cast. Then I added a massdam jackmate to the top (now discontinued), added a squared retainer snap pin to the base plate and the handle.

One of my favorite uses for a high-lift, is to winch a truck sideways, while driving (or winching) forward. It helps keep the side of the truck from getting smashed up on a rock or side hill (see picture).

 

[brew8]

Great Tool, I have used them for everything for years, I also got beaned between the eyes once, they can be dangerous. Larry

 

[Bogo]

People have been knocked out and killed by that handle.