Hey from Indianapolis

[IndyLandCruiser]

Just a quick hello from noobie in Greenwood, Indiana. 1997 LandCruiser, recently purchased. I am completely green to LandCruisers and will graciously accept any and all help, suggestions, and tips or pointers. I want to build it out for overlanding (minus intentional rock crawling) with drawer system and sleeping platform in rear. All back seats out. My plans are bumpers, sliders, rack, but first need to make it mechanically sound. Needs exhaust, rear heater bypass, PHH bypass, and some other wallet killing under hood items. Talk to me! Would LOVE to find a guru/pro in Indy area that specializes in Toyota LandCruisers and knows his/her way around the 1FZ-FE.

 

[Road Apple]

Welcome to MUD and the 80 !!

There are a ton of options and vendors for the items you want to add. Wits’ End and Cruiser Outfitters have a large selection of land cruiser parts. Drawers run from $1300 for Dobinson that doesn’t have a sleeping platform option to well over $3000 for Goose Drawers, which are high quality with most options you can imagine. Lots of people like White Knuckle Off Road sliders, which are bolt on with catalytic converter protection. Slee, Dissent, 4x4 Labs, Delta Vehicle Systems, and ARB are a few bumpers to look at. Prinsu and Bowfin are a couple racks. Happy to give you more vendors.

Wits' End, Solutions for Problems You Didn't Know You Had

Wits' End, Land Cruiser, 80 Series, LX450, 100 Series, Fire Extinguisher Mount

absolute-wits-end.com

Cruiser Outfitters

 

[OffRoadScott]

Welcome to the club. And welcome to an empty wallet.

 

[leonard_nemoy]

Welcome to the fold.

1st rule of ih8mud, "pics or it didn't happen".

 

[greentruck]

Just a quick hello from noobie in Greenwood, Indiana. 1997 LandCruiser, recently purchased. I am completely green to LandCruisers and will graciously accept any and all help, suggestions, and tips or pointers. I want to build it out for overlanding (minus intentional rock crawling) with drawer system and sleeping platform in rear. All back seats out. SNIP

Sounds like you have similar desires in an 80 as mine, so will be glad to offer any advice I can. More on that in a moment.

I'm not a Hoosier resident, but was born there and much of my family still resides there. I have a niece who lives in Indy. But I left for beer on Sundays decades ago and haven't looked back much. Did buy my first Land Cruiser in IN, bought from the Bloomington dealer off of the lot of the Indy Toyota dealer at the time (a new 76 FJ55 in early 77.) Reside now in the Champaign County area.

Here's a link to my drawer/Sleeper build. No seats, although it is possible to remove the front part and install the 2nd row, I've just never looked back (yet).
Camper Conversion & Drawer System

Locally, there is some talk of a club and people do make runs over to the Badlands ORV Park. Don't completely discount getting the 80 on the rocks. What is typically gnarly rockcrawling in lesser vehicles is often a breeze in an 80 once you get the feel of where all your tires are (something that needs learned in any serious offroad vehicle.) Another couple that owns an 80 and my wife and I trekked to Michigan's UP in summer 2019, but last year was a washout of course. Not sure about this year yet. Here's our rig packed for camp on the road in Manistique, MI in 2019 (probably over-packed, but we're dealing with that... )

 

[IndyLandCruiser]

Welcome to MUD and the 80 !!

There are a ton of options and vendors for the items you want to add. Wits’s End and Cruiser Outfitters have a large selection of land cruiser parts. Drawers run from $1300 for Dobinson that doesn’t have a sleeping platform option to well over $3000 for Goose Drawers, which are high quality with most option you can imagine. Lots of people like White Knuckle Off Road sliders, which are bolt on with catalytic converter protection. Slee, Dissent, 4x4 Labs, Delta Vehicle Systems, and ARB are a few bumpers to look at. Prinsu and Bowfin are a couple racks. Happy to give you more vendors.

Wits' End, Solutions for Problems You Didn't Know You Had

Wits' End, Land Cruiser, 80 Series, LX450, 100 Series, Fire Extinguisher Mount

absolute-wits-end.com

Cruiser Outfitters

Thanks, Road Apple! I have indeed discovered and love Wit's End...got the Land Tank front seat extension kit (not installed yet) and currently have the PHH work around and formed rear heater bypass hose kit ordered. I already did the Gamiviti seat gears only to discover that while it fixed the seat and now I can move it back and forth, it was already as far back as it could go. I am retired military, and my wife is permanently disabled, so the budget is really not up to the task, to be honest. But getting out and overlanding/camping is kind of a bucket list item for both of us, so it was more an emotional purchase than a practical one, I confess. I was thinking of building a drawer system and loosely following Michael's build from OverLand Bound with what he did. The sliders will def be bolt on when the time comes and since I need exhaust, will either go low profile cats or cat delete. I am trying to learn more about o2 sensor delete options to not screw up ECU. I like the ARB bumper because they have a bar up the front, and I want to put branch deflection from the bumper to the roof rack. I want to do a dual battery, with DC-DC controller, and a higher output alternator. I am in process of determing weight so I can plan for the appropriate suspension with a 1.5 or 2 inch lift. Still deciding on long range fuel tank, which will obviously affect that decision. Most of this seems like a dream, but hey, I took the first step by procuring the vehicle, so who knows, maybe it will happen! Thanks for the response. Here's to the future adventures!

 

[Road Apple]

Good to hear you’ve done your research and have defined how you’ll use your truck. I like your thinking and planning with thst. Good call following quality builds to learn from.

Just sold a 2” OME lift for $400 that was in good shape. It sold fast. Keeping a close eye on the classifieds for used parts and upgrades has saved me a bunch of cash, especially for trail spares. Save your old parts.

I’m also digging into the PHH. Here’s some advise from other members I saved.

“remove tire, fender liner, tranny dip stick tube. Cut off clamps with dremel. Cut off old hose with razor, and remove. Slightly bend hard metal tube, add lubricant to new hose, slide on metal tube, using a small prybar as a lever. Once on, pry metal tube back in place, then use prybar to slide new hose over both fittings. Then tighten hose clamps. I had a Milwaukee impact ratchet, which allowed me to tighten the hose clamps in place quickly. If I did not have that tool, I would still be out there this moment trying to get those 8 mm clamp bolts tightened down.”

“None of this is rocket surgery and not even all that inconvenient. Remove the drivers side front tire and the rubber splash guard to gain access. The smaller you are the easier the PHH job will be. I routed my section of hose from the head up to the hearer valve inboard of the brake booster. This is actually easier than doing a standard PHH replacement because it eliminates 4 clamps. It should take no more than 30 minutes once access has been gained. The rear heater bypass is a piece of cake.”

“The Pittsburg 3/8” drive T-bar with flexible ratchet makes taking the lower bracket bolt loose with ease for the PHH and i used dialectic grease to help the replacement hoses slide back on.”

 

[IndyLandCruiser]

Sounds like you have similar desires in an 80 as mine, so will be glad to offer any advice I can. More on that in a moment.

I'm not a Hoosier resident, but was born there and much of my family still resides there. I have a niece who lives in Indy. But I left for beer on Sundays decades ago and haven't looked back much. Did buy my first Land Cruiser in IN, bought from the Bloomington dealer off of the lot of the Indy Toyota dealer at the time (a new 76 FJ55 in early 77.) Reside now in the Champaign County area.

Here's a link to my drawer/Sleeper build. No seats, although it is possible to remove the front part and install the 2nd row, I've just never looked back (yet).
Camper Conversion & Drawer System

Locally, there is some talk of a club and people do make runs over to the Badlands ORV Park. Don't completely discount getting the 80 on the rocks. What is typically gnarly rockcrawling in lesser vehicles is often a breeze in an 80 once you get the feel of where all your tires are (something that needs learned in any serious offroad vehicle.) Another couple that owns an 80 and my wife and I trekked to Michigan's UP in summer 2019, but last year was a washout of course. Not sure about this year yet. Here's our rig packed for camp on the road in Manistique, MI in 2019 (probably over-packed, but we're dealing with that... )

Love the trailer, too! I only mentioned rock crawling because I am not focused on that aspect as much as the camping/overlanding aspect, therefore I do not want to go ape doo doo with crazy lift and caster correction to be sure it is ready for that. Do want to consider on board air, perhaps 1.5-2" lift. Do you have any opinion on ABS and lspv delete?

 

[IndyLandCruiser]

Good to hear you’ve done your research and have defined how you’ll use your truck. I like your thinking and planning with thst. Good call following quality builds to learn from.

Just sold a 2” OME lift for $400 that was in good shape. It sold fast. Keeping a close eye on the classifieds for used parts and upgrades has saved me a bunch of cash, especially for trail spares. Save your old parts.

I’m also digging into the PHH. Here’s some advise from other members I saved.

“remove tire, fender liner, tranny dip stick tube. Cut off clamps with dremel. Cut off old hose with razor, and remove. Slightly bend hard metal tube, add lubricant to new hose, slide on metal tube, using a small prybar as a lever. Once on, pry metal tube back in place, then use prybar to slide new hose over both fittings. Then tighten hose clamps. I had a Milwaukee impact ratchet, which allowed me to tighten the hose clamps in place quickly. If I did not have that tool, I would still be out there this moment trying to get those 8 mm clamp bolts tightened down.”

“None of this is rocket surgery and not even all that inconvenient. Remove the drivers side front tire and the rubber splash guard to gain access. The smaller you are the easier the PHH job will be. I routed my section of hose from the head up to the hearer valve inboard of the brake booster. This is actually easier than doing a standard PHH replacement because it eliminates 4 clamps. It should take no more than 30 minutes once access has been gained. The rear heater bypass is a piece of cake.”

“The Pittsburg 3/8” drive T-bar with flexible ratchet makes taking the lower bracket bolt loose with ease for the PHH and i used dialectic grease to help the replacement hoses slide back on.”

Thanks!

 

[greentruck]

Love the trailer, too! I only mentioned rock crawling because I am not focused on that aspect as much as the camping/overlanding aspect, therefore I do not want to go ape doo doo with crazy lift and caster correction to be sure it is ready for that. Do want to consider on board air, perhaps 1.5-2" lift. Do you have any opinion on ABS and lspv delete?

I didn't want to make a big deal of the rock crawling, but thought it worth mentioning that the skills involved in doing it are nonetheless good to acquire and practice even if you plan to stay off the rocks. It's because I learned this in the wilds of southern Indiana in my FJ55 soon after I bought it. Was poking around with some friends looking for interesting trails. This was somewhere in Brown County or perhaps eastern Monroe County. Went down a trail that turned out to be badly washed and off kilter. Managed to stuff the right rear quarter panel into the bank when I lost situational awareness of where my right rear tire was. Here's a pic when we returned a few months later and someone had helpfully dozered things to make it easy to get back in there, IIRC the start of someone's housing subdivision in the woods.

That's my buddy David, laughing at the situation, because we almost didn't get out of there that day and now it was so smooth, easy, and even by golly, graveled. The brown patch on the rear of the Pig is my mark of shame for not paying attention to the fact I wasn't driving a Subaru anymore.

On-board air is worth the trouble if you do a lot of airing up. There are some decent portable units that will do that job and provide some additional flexibility that a bolted-on system won't. Especially for overlanding, it's handy to have a system that can be moved or lent out. So that's where we're at. I have an older top of the line Harbor Freight knockoff of a Puma(?), which isn't that much more expensive than HF via online sources.

On ABS delete, it's turned off in 4 Low, which is the only place where it might IMO tend to cause trouble except in the most exotic of circumstances, so a non-issue as far as need for a delete goes. I've had it work a couple of times on road and been happy that it did. Eveb if I thought I was quicker and smarter than it when I was young (I wasn't) I'm definitely not now. Then there is the whole issue of deleting a major safety feature that was applied by the manufacturer and how insurance companies might see that.

LSPV delete, hmm, jury's still out. The basic argument is that things like airbags tend to throw off how the LSPV works, particularly when used to compensate for trailer weight's effect on rear suspension height. Maybe, I haven't found it to be an issue yet, but haven't been to Colorado with the trailer yet either. In any case, Toyota says to have brakes on your trailer if it's over 1,000 lbs. IMO, having the trailer braked deals with any issues that would otherwise arise from any effects on the LSPV. One is in the plans here. So more testing needs to be done here, so YMMV, but those are my current thoughts on the topic.

 

[IndyLandCruiser]

I didn't want to make a big deal of the rock crawling, but thought it worth mentioning that the skills involved in doing it are nonetheless good to acquire and practice even if you plan to stay off the rocks. It's because I learned this in the wilds of southern Indiana in my FJ55 soon after I bought it. Was poking around with some friends looking for interesting trails. This was somewhere in Brown County or perhaps eastern Monroe County. Went down a trail that turned out to be badly washed and off kilter. Managed to stuff the right rear quarter panel into the bank when I lost situational awareness of where my right rear tire was. Here's a pic when we returned a few months later and someone had helpfully dozered things to make it easy to get back in there, IIRC the start of someone's housing subdivision in the woods.

That's my buddy David, laughing at the situation, because we almost didn't get out of there that day and now it was so smooth, easy, and even by golly, graveled. The brown patch on the rear of the Pig is my mark of shame for not paying attention to the fact I wasn't driving a Subaru anymore.

On-board air is worth the trouble if you do a lot of airing up. There are some decent portable units that will do that job and provide some additional flexibility that a bolted-on system won't. Especially for overlanding, it's handy to have a system that can be moved or lent out. So that's where we're at. I have an older top of the line Harbor Freight knockoff of a Puma(?), which isn't that much more expensive than HF via online sources.

On ABS delete, it's turned off in 4 Low, which is the only place where it might IMO tend to cause trouble except in the most exotic of circumstances, so a non-issue as far as need for a delete goes. I've had it work a couple of times on road and been happy that it did. Eveb if I thought I was quicker and smarter than it when I was young (I wasn't) I'm definitely not now. Then there is the whole issue of deleting a major safety feature that was applied by the manufacturer and how insurance companies might see that.

LSPV delete, hmm, jury's still out. The basic argument is that things like airbags tend to throw off how the LSPV works, particularly when used to compensate for trailer weight's effect on rear suspension height. Maybe, I haven't found it to be an issue yet, but haven't been to Colorado with the trailer yet either. In any case, Toyota says to have brakes on your trailer if it's over 1,000 lbs. IMO, having the trailer braked deals with any issues that would otherwise arise from any effects on the LSPV. One is in the plans here. So more testing needs to be done here, so YMMV, but those are my current thoughts on the topic.

Love the pic and story! I am not wanting to delete ABS as much as wondering how it all ties together and still works properly (with LSPV) when bigger tires and lifted suspensions are in play. I guess I just wonder how it would still function as designed with all the mods. I mean, fully geared up with drawer system, rack loaded, and a long ranger tank adds a great deal of weight. Still learning. I want to be fully informed before doing anything...I watch a lot of home building YouTubers do stuff 2 and 3 times before they get it right. Easy enough, I guess, with money from YouTube, but I have to get it right the first time. I appreciate the rock crawling advice. Being former military, situational awareness ranks high on the skillset list.