Help with dying issue

[Whitechocolatee]

Sorry if this is posted in wrong section, I’m new here and not really good with forums.

But anyways, I recently bought a 93 lc. it’s been good for me for the past month, probably put 1000 miles on it already. No cel or anything, then a couple days ago I started her up, and went to leave my apartments and it died. Tried starting and it would just make a loud single click noise. So I pushed it into a parking spot, about 5 min later I figured I’d try starting again and boom. Fired right up. Drove it the whole day with no issue, probably turned on and off 10 times that day. BUT next morning leaving for work, same thing. Died right as I got out of my apartments and now all it does is make a single loud click every time you turn the ignition. My question is. Where should I be looking? Seems like maybe a starter, but that doesn’t make sense why it would of died while driving, and again, no cel, no rough idle, no hiccups, Nothing.

Car was running very smooth and solid. Thanks for the help to anyone who takes the time to read this, I’m not very car savvy but I would like to try and get this fixed on my own. Also, when it died it was just a quick shut off. No bogging or anything almost as if I just turned the ignition off.

 

[ppc]

Sounds like you have two problems.

First, the one click when trying to start is a typical symptom of worn starter contacts and plunger inside the starter. Choices are to replace the contacts and plunger relatively cheap $40-$50 or to get a rebuilt starter from your Toyota parts supplier. Starters from Autozone and other parts stores are not recomended. Some have had luck with Amazon and Rockauto.

Second could be failing fusible links attached to the battery. When the ignition is turn on before starting the CEL should be on which indicates that power is being supplied to the ECM. The fusible links are $15 and should be replaced if they are not new. Other thing could be a EFI relay.

There are lots of others posts to search for more details as well as a document by @jonheld that will detail how to diagnose the problems you have.

 

[Whitechocolatee]

Sounds like you have two problems.

First, the one click when trying to start is a typical symptom of worn starter contacts and plunger inside the starter. Choices are to replace the contacts and plunger relatively cheap $40-$50 or to get a rebuilt starter from your Toyota parts supplier. Starters from Autozone and other parts stores are not recomended. Some have had luck with Amazon and Rockauto.

Second could be failing fusible links attached to the battery. When the ignition is turn on before starting the CEL should be on which indicates that power is being supplied to the ECM. The fusible links are $15 and should be replaced if they are not new. Other thing could be a EFI relay.

There are lots of others posts to search for more details as well as a document by @jonheld that will detail how to diagnose the problems you have.

Thanks for the reply! So when I turn just ignition on the cel does turn on. But once started it turns off as usual, would that mean it’s most likely the starter then? Tried searching the forum but can’t seem to find anything that has same sypmtoms as mine. But again, I’m also not good with forums

 

[ppc]

Don't be confused, look at two separate problems. If the CEL is on before trying to start then the engine should start and run provided the starter cranks the motor. If all you hear is the starter click you could give the starter a good smack with a hammer and it might start.

Both problems are intermittent which makes things a bit more difficult to diagnose. Eventually the starter contacts can get stuck "on" and the starter will continue to run and could cause some big problems.

When the engine stops more than likely is because the ECM loses power. That could be from vibration, heat, running over a bump in the road etc.

Search the forum for "no start" and "fusible links" and you will find many posts.

 

[leonard_nemoy]

I have had these same issues from nothing more than nasty corroded battery cables. I would check your battery connections, starter and relays

 

[Whitechocolatee]

Thanks for the replies. Once back in town I will make sure to check over all of those

 

[graham5david]

Sounds like a starter but I would purchase 2 new fusible links and replace the old one as well as the starter. Keep the extra link in your car. They are $10 so its worth buying the extra and avoid getting stranded in the 100 degree heat with the kids, no cell service, on a dirt road 30 Miles from anyone just to figure out it is your fusible link after you remove the entire aftermarket alarm system. Unless you like testing you macgeyver skills in the heat like I did last summer. You can buy a remanufactured denso starter from Amazon pretty cheap. Not the easiest starter to change but it isn't impossible. If you ever get stranded due to a blown fusible link you can bypass it and power the ecm by running a jumper wire from your rear heater fuse to the ecm fuse in the fuse box next to your left knee to get home. Which is why I carry an extra fusible link now.

 

[graham5david]

Fusible Link for 80 Series Land Cruiser

Fuseable Link for 80 Series Land Cruiser (FLK-1)

absolute-wits-end.com

Amazon product ASIN B000C5YDEW

 

[Whitechocolatee]

Fusible Link for 80 Series Land Cruiser

Fuseable Link for 80 Series Land Cruiser (FLK-1)

absolute-wits-end.com

Amazon product ASIN B000C5YDEW

Alright so just got back to town and looked under the hood, wiggles the wire pictured and car fired up. Didn’t drive it or anything. Came out today and still won’t start. So I will replace the fusible link first. My question is, did previous owner do a hack job on mine? The two wires circled plug into the little fuse block outside battery tray. But the single wire circled doesn’t have the plug that I see in the pictured for the new one.

 

[Whitechocolatee]

Here

 

[george_tlc]

The 20g/red 'fusible link' is NOT OEM. So, a partial hack job.

Definitely replace the fusible links, even the blue/black OEM ones are pretty crusty looking.

I'd re-instate the hack job fusible link when you get the triple OEM fusible link assembly.

cheers,
george.

 

[Whitechocolatee]

The 20g/red 'fusible link' is NOT OEM. So, a partial hack job.

Definitely replace the fusible links, even the blue/black OEM ones are pretty crusty looking.

I'd re-instate the hack job fusible link when you get the triple OEM fusible link assembly.

cheers,
george.

Oh I didn’t even know the red one was part of the fusible link, so then I have 4 wires for it instead of 3?

 

[ppc]

In addition to the fusible links I would also suggest replacing the battery terminals with something more suitable for attaching cables with lugs
Amazon product ASIN B07F1Q82WR

 

[george_tlc]

Stock has 1 big positive cable for the starter and 3 Fusible links. It appears that one fusible link has been replaced with the Red fuse etc., which I assume replaces the fusible link that goes to/from the alternator positive output. You need to trace where the Red wire you see goes.

Clear that there is a crimped end on the battery positive post that has no wire, I assume that crimped end is what use to go to the OEM alternator fusible link. This appears to have been bypassed with the Red wire stuff that is there now - that is the PO's 'hack' in this case.

Second, replacing the battery clamps with something nicer and better quality. I prefer using so called "military style' battery clamps.

cheers,
george.

 

[ppc]

All the links and other wiring needs protective loom and the battery box needs protective rubber grommets where the wires pass through. The OEM grommets are missing.

 

[george_tlc]

^ looks like the PO did a big hack on the battery box too - so a factory grommet will have issues fitting, unless I'm looking at the posted picture incorrectly...

cheers,
george.

 

[ppc]

Yes George, the battery box has been violated that is why I pointed out the OEM grommets were missing. If that was my vehicle I would restart fresh and replace the positive cable to the starter with a larger gauge and new lugs and do the same with the negative cables to the block and body and get a replacement battery box.

 

[Whitechocolatee]

Stock has 1 big positive cable for the starter and 3 Fusible links. It appears that one fusible link has been replaced with the Red fuse etc., which I assume replaces the fusible link that goes to/from the alternator positive output. You need to trace where the Red wire you see goes.

Clear that there is a crimped end on the battery positive post that has no wire, I assume that crimped end is what use to go to the OEM alternator fusible link. This appears to have been bypassed with the Red wire stuff that is there now - that is the PO's 'hack' in this case.

Second, replacing the battery clamps with something nicer and better quality. I prefer using so called "military style' battery clamps.

cheers,
george.

Just wanna say thanks again for taking your time with me on this. It’s really helpful. So I followed the red wire. It goes to firewall and then connects with another wire coming from passenger side of firewall and they conjoin and go out the passenger front fender lol so I have no clue what’s going on there

 

[Whitechocolatee]

So the wire with yellow pointer, the po must of just spliced in. Instead of using the factory plug because it’s just wire all the way into the harness where it meets with the black and blue wires. Just picked up the fusible link from loca delalership guess I’ll get it all together not using the plug and go from there