HELP ON REAR DOOR STRUT MOUNT (1 Viewer)

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Oct 8, 2020
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Indiana
Folks I am looking for a little help / advice. One of the first thing I did to my 470 was the rear door strut conversion. Watched all the YouTube videos, ordered a strut and followed the instructions. Those were to remove the bracket on the bumper and cut off the top of the door hardware mount and install ed strut. It all went perfectly EXCEPT THE DOOR WHEN OPENED, OEPNED FAST ENOUGH to shake the entire truck. WOW, this isn't going to work so I ordered another set of struts (used in a well viewed YouTube video) as they only came in a pair and installed them. Same thing, the door bent both mounting point to the point I took them off to save the door and mounting bracket from total destruction. Now I have dilemma . I can't find a shock that works to slow the door and I can't put the factory mechanism back on as I cut part of it off. SOOOOOe I am trying to source either a bracket that bolts on by the bumper that has not been shortened or a shock / strut that will slow the door down upon opening. ANY HELP WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED.
 
I did the same strut mod around 2 months ago. At first it was crazy-fast and shook the truck. I got used to holding the door for about 2/3 of the way open before letting it go. Now, the strut seems to have softened up quite a bit. I still don't let it fly open but it has around 1/3 less of the brute force it used to have. I think it's just a issue that comes along with the strut mod. Overall a great mod, just hold the door as you open it.
 
I also did not like how violently it opened.
My solution: 550 cord
I tied 550 cord on 1 end, then wrapped around the gas strut about 3-4 times, and tied it tight on the other end with the door about halfway open.

Now I can pop the door handle and let it swing. when it gets half way open the 550 cord catches and starts slowing it down. The 550 cord is tensioned to the point that the door only opens about 95%, so it never slams the hinges or shocks the attachment points for the strut. It has been going well for about a year now. I also did NOT reinforce the door skin and it is fine.
 
I have a similar scenario. I originally order a longer strut and then the shorter one, thinking it would be better. I found the short strut placed all the stress on the strut mount points and quickly bent them even with the 1/4" aluminum reinforcement. I went back to the longer strut. This results in the door hinges taking the force instead of the strut mounts. I think I'll try the 550 cord mentioned above as I'm still not happy with how quickly the door opens. It's a danger for the little ones.
Longer strut: SE244P40M10 (24.4")
Shorter strut: PM3947 (23.7")

You should be able to return to the original mechanism by using washers to match the height of the original body mount location. I haven't tried this, but it seems feasible.
 
I also did not like how violently it opened.
My solution: 550 cord
I tied 550 cord on 1 end, then wrapped around the gas strut about 3-4 times, and tied it tight on the other end with the door about halfway open.

Now I can pop the door handle and let it swing. when it gets half way open the 550 cord catches and starts slowing it down. The 550 cord is tensioned to the point that the door only opens about 95%, so it never slams the hinges or shocks the attachment points for the strut. It has been going well for about a year now. I also did NOT reinforce the door skin and it is fine.
Do you have a pic of this?? I have the same issue and this seems like a great fix!
 
IMG_20210220_073945606_HDR.jpg

Not super elegant, but works very well. It actually looks like I did 2 wraps, the left side wraps around the base, and 1 side has a bowline knot so there is a loop in the end so that I could get a 2 to 1 pull on it while tightening it. You basically have to tie and try until you get the opening action you want. I planned to put braided nylon over it to make it look not so hokey, but I haven't gotten around to it.


At one point I had elastic and 550 cord inside a nice nylon braid, but the elastic popped off and the 550 had just enough stretch when wrapped to work well.
 
You have the correct link to the liftsupportdepot option. I've seen one from AUS that sounds pretty good too. It includes the strut as well as the support bracket detailed in your first link.
I have the depot option and it's pretty aggressive opening, but it does the trick for the most part.
 
You have the correct link to the liftsupportdepot option. I've seen one from AUS that sounds pretty good too. It includes the strut as well as the support bracket detailed in your first link.
I have the depot option and it's pretty aggressive opening, but it does the trick for the most part.
Okie dokie. Ordered! I guess holding the door as it opens will still be much less infuriating than having it fall closed on me while unloading!
 
I've been using the Depot option for around 6 months now. It definitely has softened up a bit. Both me and my wife are now in the habit of holding the door as it opens (it's really muscle memory now) and we have not had any problems with it flinging open in months. The only caveat is if someone not familiar with it opens the hatch and lets it fly open.
 
I am trying to source either a bracket that bolts on by the bumper that has not been shortened

I was in the same boat. I did this mod and lived with it for about 6-9 months before I undid the mod and went back to the factory opener.

I disliked everything about the strut mod:
* door flinging open or having to guide the door open
* impossible to open the door only partially
* strut wasn't strong enough to hold the weight of the door open on a steep or off-camber incline

Like you, I had trimmed that bracket down and had to completely replace it with a new part that hadn't been cut.

Long story made short: The part number is 68903-60010 :)

 
I did the reinforcement bar along the hatch and did this mod almost immediately after getting my GX. I felt the same about the amount of force and then once day it snapped the head off the strut due to the force it had. I got my strut from strut depot or something like that. I went back to the stock setup and I didn't really like the strut after having it for a few months.
 
What exactly is the advantage of this mod anyway?
It's easier to open the door and have it stay open. Outside of high angles and strong wind, the door will stay in the open position without locking it into place. There are certainly disadvantages to the mod, but many people find it helpful. If I were to do it over again, I might spring for the strut from strutyourstuff as it has a soft opening as well as a locking mechanism.
 
It's easier to open the door and have it stay open. Outside of high angles and strong wind, the door will stay in the open position without locking it into place. There are certainly disadvantages to the mod, but many people find it helpful. If I were to do it over again, I might spring for the strut from strutyourstuff as it has a soft opening as well as a locking mechanism.
Do you have a part number for the strutyourstuff strut? I like the mod but would also like the soft opening and locking mechanism. I really hated the OEM mechanism - it took an extra step to hold the door open and always seemed like it needed to be lubed.
 
Do you have a part number for the strutyourstuff strut? I like the mod but would also like the soft opening and locking mechanism. I really hated the OEM mechanism - it took an extra step to hold the door open and always seemed like it needed to be lubed.
 
is the reinforment bar needed?
I've seen lots of posts about the mount in the door getting damaged, so I think keeping some sort of reinforcement is important. It will distribute the load to both connecting locations, rather than concentrating it on just the one where the ball stud is.
Additionally, I just trimmed the factory reinforcement until it cleared the strut. It's stamped steel, so consider it plenty strong, even if you have to trim it a lot (which you will)!
 

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