Help on fixing hatch surface rust

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Joined
Sep 21, 2005
Threads
89
Messages
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Location
Olathe, KS
I've got a spot on my tailgate I want to fix but I don't trust my skills to make it a _decent_ fix. I tried fixing some rust around a nutsert on the roof and ended up with noticeable ridges where I sprayed the primer, paint, and clear in successive layers. I don't think I trust myself to get the tailgate done right (or just decent).

Can someone lend me a guiding hand, perhaps at the wrenching weekend?

I don't really care how nice it is, I just want the rust gone and have it painted over. Doesn't matter if body filler is used to fill in the spot where the rust was (its surface rust, not a hole, I know better than to fill a hold with bondo).

I already have Toyota 6M1 green paint in a spray can so I can match the paint. Also have some spray can clear, but I need to get some black primer since the grey primer lightened the basecoat too much.

Thanks!
 
Hopefully changing out the transfer case won't take the entire time at the wrenching weekend. I might wait to do that at home anyway.

Thanks for the offer, what should I bring with me if we do that? Here's my short list so far.
- Masking tape
- Newspapers
- Primer
- Paint
- Clear
- Sand paper (can't remember which grit I have)
 
that list looks pretty comeplete...when you repaired the finish last time did you rub/buff the patch once the paint had cured?....sometimes those imperfections can be rubbed out and blended in...just curious
My main problem was the paint/primer gathering at the edges of the masking tape so I was left with ridges. I did try to feather the primer but it didn't work very well, I also tried buffing the paint once done but that couldn't take out the ridge. I gave up after that since I am going to have the area the roof rack occupied covered with line-x once I get around to it.
 
Is the rust like what is shown in this picture? If it is, you need to read this thread https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=17823&highlight=tailgate+rust
115_1529_2.webp
 
Andrew,
The reason you have a ridge is because you taped it off. In order to not leave a ridge it has to be blended. Your back window needs to come out so that all of the rust can be removed, Usally a wire wheel on a 4" grinder works best, then primer, paint, and clear. I doubt if rattle can be blended with good results be cause the solvent won't melt the existing paint.
CC
 
Andrew,
The reason you have a ridge is because you taped it off. In order to not leave a ridge it has to be blended. Your back window needs to come out so that all of the rust can be removed, Usally a wire wheel on a 4" grinder works best, then primer, paint, and clear. I doubt if rattle can be blended with good results be cause the solvent won't melt the existing paint.
CC
I'm not really expecting great results, just something a bit better than what I did before.

I would have responded sooner, but IH8MUD seems to be down at my house :crybaby: .
 
Last edited:
Anybody have experience taking out a back window?
CC
Would I really need to remove the back window? I don't think the rust goes that far up.
 
Probably for a considerable amount of time. Provided it doesn't completely fall apart on me.
 
May as well do it right the first time. I'll bet that every time it rains the rubber around the window leaks a little at the top, then the water runs around the edges of the rubber, down the sides and all across the bottom and sets there and starts rusting. So you take the window out, wire brush out all of the rust, repaint the metal, reinstall the glass, then run a bead of clear silicone(1/16") across the top and down the sides, leaving the bottom open in case of future leakage.
CC
 
There isn't any rust around the window right now, its just that little spot at the end of the yellow arrow.
 
I have dial up, your picture hadn't downloaded and I read right past it. Thats a peice of cake to fix. Block sand it, wire wheel it, prime it a few times and paint it.
CC
 
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