Help me decide on Transfer Case

Pick your weapon

  • H1FA- Simple is beauiful

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • H2FA- no VC to break down and I get AWD?! Sweet

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • H2FAV- back to the last upgrade from Toyota, don't over think it

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    0

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SteelHunterFJ80

SILVER Star
Joined
Jun 17, 2016
Threads
60
Messages
1,038
Location
Seattle Area
As the title states I am looking at transfer case options. I currently have the 1HFA freshly rebuilt and works great, shift on the fly and fully mechanical. I also have a HF2A which reportedly came from Spain along with my H151 transmission but I am unsure if it has synchros to allow 4H on the fly. Furthermore, I will need to do the 10% over and underdrive gears. I have a 1HDFT and need to drop the revs by about 10% to hit the sweet spot with the powerband and fuel usage. I would love a 15% reduction but can find anything available in that range.

So here is what I am seeking all the gurus input on. What is the best TC for all around adaptability with a truck that sees 60% street, 25% overland/desert/logging roads type driving, and 15% of wheeling and rarely anything more than level 5 moderate difficulty trails?

My options as I see them with pros and cons:

Keep H1FA:

Pros- Already in the truck and set up to work as factory. Rock solid dependability with no actuators to go out. Shift on the fly that’s super smooth. 4H 2H N 4L shift pattern.

Cons- Pin 7 mod does no longer applicable and can take a bit of movement in the truck to get disengaged from 4H increasing chance of binding in tight turns.

Locking Hubs not currently installed but in 2H does it even matter? Sure there is some wear and tear on the knuckles but its so long term does it even matter? The front drive shaft isn’t turning so no parasitic power loss there.


Put in my H2FA:

Pros- Currently sitting in my garage and would be a nice project to rebuild with 10% reduction gears. Get to use the CDL button which is easier to reach for while driving, especially with my manual gear shifter in the way. Can now use Pin 7 mod around tight corners and I imagine it has a faster engagement than manual lever. Sell H1FA which has less than 8,000 miles on it after rebuild by mud member r_d.


Third out of the box idea, put in H2FAV:

Pros- regain AWD and VC. In the PNW this is an asset although truth be told I haven’t seen the truck not handle well in the snow in 2H provided I don’t drive like an idiot. PIN 7 mod option works.

Cons- The truck definitely handles better in real wheel drive. Much sharper, better control turns easier and coasts smoother.

Out of the box idea- Install locking hubs but no part time spool. Hubs unlocked so front drive shaft turns but without wheel/hub engagement there isn’t power to the wheels, CDL gets locked to achieve 50 50 RWD. Want AWD again, just lock hubs. My question would be how does the VC act in this case? And with unlocked wheels am I losing a fair amount of power by sending it to the front....but if there isn’t any friction with the hubs disengaged is it minimal? And would the truck still handle like its in 2H?
 
Take the VC off your decision tree. It's basically a liability, they're old, prone to failure and expensive to replace with very little upside. Going part time, only adding locking hubs and not addressing the the center spool is a mistake especially it this is a daily driver.
 
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