help diagnose battery killing issue (1 Viewer)

[cruiser88]

the snap on tool they use does everything but find a drain in the wiring however I am certain alot of advances auto parts still have the dc amprobe IF they sare willing to use it.....some of them are ....well you know


anyway what was the results according to him on the battery and they alt...did you ask?

also if you look at the screen when they do they test it also test the diodes.....just to get that out of the way.

couple things
1) taking the pos battery cable off while running was done once as a quick (and apparently stupid) test;
2) battery terminals are all clean and tight;
3) volt numbers were from battery by autozone zombie; really went there to use their DC amp probe which he says they don't have;
4) had the alternator "rewound" by a local shop about 6 years ago so I may start back there;
I guess the thing I wasn't understanding is that when I can barely squeeze off a crank, then run drive the truck for some time (hour), the battery is then strong enough to crank right off, which makes me think the alternator is good. Thanks again, got some lookin to do.

 

[krookedpandas]

I drove my cruiser for about 80 miles on reserve after the alternator crapped out on a late night return home. After that the CCA was shot and if it sat for more than a few days it would not start. Have your CCA tested your battery can test good even with low CCA.

 

[sven]

response to cruiser88

not to keep this thing going cause there are more interesting threads but I like to respond back to folks. I went back and looked at the read-out and I guess the tell tale sign is that under load (heater blower on) with idle up to around 2100rpms, I was reading 6.91A which is obviously acceptable not under load but not at load. So I assume my alternator is capable of 6.9A and anytime I need more than that, I am essentially drawing down the battery little by little. Guess I will be pulling that bee-oitch out now which sucks cause I got new belts and new water pump just a year ago.

 

[cruiser88]

thanks for the update

not to keep this thing going cause there are more interesting threads but I like to respond back to folks. I went back and looked at the read-out and I guess the tell tale sign is that under load (heater blower on) with idle up to around 2100rpms, I was reading 6.91A which is obviously acceptable not under load but not at load. So I assume my alternator is capable of 6.9A and anytime I need more than that, I am essentially drawing down the battery little by little. Guess I will be pulling that bee-oitch out now which sucks cause I got new belts and new water pump just a year ago.