Heat Shields....Catalytic Converter area

[BTLSHP]

I have been searching for guidance on how to remove the heat shields around the catalytic converters on a 1994 Series 80. Embarrassingly, I replace the clam shell around the Cats 5 years or so ago but have completely forgotten how to get the upper off after getting the lower separated. I thought it came out to the outside of the car once you had that heat shield out of the way.

I would appreciate help as I am getting around to doing the rear heater lines. Sadly, bypassing is not really an option in the family.

Thanks,

 

[FMC80]

IIRC, they're just 8mm nuts that hold the uppers in place. I used a 1/4" setup with a uni-wiggle socket. I also used a Ritchie-ratchet to access the harder-to-reach ones.

 

[BTLSHP]

IIRC, they're just 8mm nuts that hold the uppers in place. I used a 1/4" setup with a uni-wiggle socket. I also used a Ritchie-ratchet to access the harder-to-reach ones.

Thanks!

 

[Trusty Rusty]

Are you able to remove the top half of the clamshell style shields once they're unbolted from each other? Doesn't seem like there's any clearance to pull the top half out once they're apart...mine is vibrating like crazy and rubbing slightly on my WKOR sliders. Should have notched the shields before the sliders got mounted up when I saw the interference, but never thought it would get this bad. Considering removing the shield entirely, but not wild about losing the additional heat blocking or how the top half could possibly slide out with the cats still in place.

 

[cts]

I recently struggled with this as well. The WKOR instructions for the 93-94s call for removing the heat shield, and as you experienced, the bottom half is easy. I assumed I could slide the top half out, but didn't have any luck with that and eventually had to unbolt the cats to be able to remove it. I was also concerned about not having the shield in place, but there is another heat shield above it attached to the body, so you'll still have some protection. I haven't noticed it getting hot, but it's also winter and I haven't sat in the passenger's seat on any long drives.

So, pull the slider, pull the cats, remove the shield, and then re-install the cats and slider.

 

[Trusty Rusty]

I recently struggled with this as well. The WKOR instructions for the 93-94s call for removing the heat shield, and as you experienced, the bottom half is easy. I assumed I could slide the top half out, but didn't have any luck with that and eventually had to unbolt the cats to be able to remove it. I was also concerned about not having the shield in place, but there is another heat shield above it attached to the body, so you'll still have some protection. I haven't noticed it getting hot, but it's also winter and I haven't sat in the passenger's seat on any long drives.

So, pull the slider, pull the cats, remove the shield, and then re-install the cats and slider.

Noooooooo...I'm crying as I read this. Sinking those 4 bolts into the captive nuts in the frame was a nightmare. I've known all along that the end game will eventually be slider removal and pulling off that shield. May even notch an area where the contact is occurring, otherwise they'll come off for good. Noted on the upper heat shield...looked like there was something on the underside of the cabin but wasn't sure.

Going to slap some SS band clamps on this weekend and see if I can calm the rattle in the meantime. It's just so defeating since everything else on the truck (which is mostly not-so-stock) is tight, quiet, and very compliant. Then I pull up to a stoplight rattling to high heaven.

 

[cts]

Give the clamps a try, but if they don't take care of the rattle, you might be able to remove the cats w/o dropping the slider. I was under my rig today installing new radius arms and was reminded that there's quite a bit of room between the cats and the skid plate on the slider. I had an oh sh!t moment when the bolt at the back of the radius arm couldn't come out because it was blocked by the inboard cat. I thought I might have to remove the cat again, but was just able to squeeze it out using a pipe wrench to twist the radius arm so the bolt made it under the bottom of the cat. Needless to say, when I put the new arm in I installed the bolt from the other side.