Headlight Failure - ‘76 (1 Viewer)

[CaliFJ]

I know this has been covered, and I’ve followed those threads. Trouble is, advice on those hasn’t helped fix the issue. I can’t figure out why the 30amp fuse blows the moment I pull the switch for headlights on my ‘76. To be clear, all running lights are functional. When I pull the switch out for lights, the fuse immediately glows red and no lights. The lights are LED from City Racer and worked great for the past couple years. Obviously they draw very little power, so why the fuse glows has me puzzled.

When testing with the meter, I get just over 12v on three of the five long posts on the switch. Makes sense for the running lights. I’m guessing the two posts with no power are low and high beam. Bad switch or bad ground? Cleaning the switch

Of course this would happen a day before I’m heading onto the Rubicon Trail

 

[spotcruiser]

Sorry, but I have to chuckle. A friend and I drove from Loon Lake to Georgetown with no headlights one night following a Rubicon trip. I thought it was funny, but my friend was terrified. Fortunately there was no traffic whatsoever and the moon was doing a pretty good job of lighting the way.

Anyway, just as a starting point, disconnect the headlights and then pull the switch. That would eliminate the headlights or the switch and wiring from the equation. You may have a chaffed wire grounding out.

You don't mention if you have stock wiring or have a different wiring harness and relays for the aftermarket lights.

 

[Bluzer]

Sounds like a hot wire is grounding somewhere. After you follow spotcruisers advise, you can check to see if your headlight lead wires are grounding by using your continuity tester: one lead to headlight wire, the other to ground.

 

[spotcruiser]

By the way, I sure don't understand why you have a 30amp fuse for your headlights, especially if they are LEDs. The stock wiring is probably only 14 gauge (metric equivalent).

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Did this problem happen before The LED lights Kit ?

 

[Living in the Past]

Sorry, but I have to chuckle. A friend and I drove from Loon Lake to Georgetown with no headlights one night following a Rubicon trip. I thought it was funny, but my friend was terrified. Fortunately there was no traffic whatsoever and the moon was doing a pretty good job of lighting the way.

Had a Opel GT that had a habit of the headlights just going out while. Did it one night driving Oak Creek Canyon in AZ. Fuse panel was above the gas pedal and a kick with my foot usually brought back. My 68 FJ40 started doing the same thing but was no longer a teenager and quickly reconditioned the fuse panel to fit the issue.

As for the current problem sounds like a direct short. I would be using a meter to locate and not try the new fuse and check the switch method. Direct short will quickly destroy the points in the light switch drawing that much current.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Your problem , might just be the Leeds / wires coming in to the 6 pin switch connector , they tend to melt down that 6 inches right before due to bad contacts

i see u have a brass spade on your switch that has seen heat

un-do the electrical tape up to the main harness check for shorted melted wires

 

[CaliFJ]

By the way, I sure don't understand why you have a 30amp fuse for your headlights, especially if they are LEDs. The stock wiring is probably only 14 gauge (metric equivalent).

The 30amp was for stock headlights. City racer LEDs are just plug and play. Easy upgrade and very reasonably priced. I figured out my issue and will explain below. Definitely not a city racer issue. These lights are an easy and excellent upgrade to an FJ40.

 

[CaliFJ]

As usual, this forum always comes through with great responses and advice, and I tried every trick mentioned by those who responded;and from previous posts. I fixed it tonight before heading onto the Rubicon trail tomorrow morning.

Here’s the issue. I had a shop fabricate a platform for an ARB air compressor forward of the battery (so right corner if looking out the glsss). When it was installed, they pinched the wires between the fender well and the new bracket, so have been chaffing. I didn’t notice it because the Platform is tightly built to the fender well (great custom work, dumb mistake). I had to leverage my sons smaller hands to get the wires moved, wrapped in e-tape. So all is good and Rubicon awaits.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

One of The sets of @Racer65 LED headlights iv installed , like u said plug and play