Has anyone built custom storage drawers for the back of their 60 or 80 series?

[Dangil]

I'm getting ready to start on a plywood drawer system for the back of my HDJ81 and I would like to be able to physically take a look at what someone else has done. I'd like to see how sturdy it feels with x/x plywood, how you went about connecting corners, drawer hardware if used. I've researched options in the 80's section, but I think I'm at a point now where I'd like to look at a real setup and determine how I might adjust my plans.

Anyone willing to let me stop by and look at their setup (preferably west of Abby)?

(my dimensions on the sketch are not confirmed yet...)

 

[Wheelingnoob]

I'm at the same stage as you. I plan to make my own but have put the project off till next year. I'm planing on using 16 gage galvanised steel for the structure of the drawer system, it should weight about the same as good quality 3/4" ply and be much more resistant to vibration and loading. I will make the drawer out of steel as well and then use a 3/4" ply for the top.

That's about as far as I have gotten with mine. I have looked at and used the new ARB set up and they are very very nice.

 

[ForealBoreal]

I would love to buy a set of drawers but I just cannot afford the premium.
I have drawn up a bunch of stuff and its going to just break down to going out and getting it done.
I want them bad though.

 

[Fantom]

I know Robert (Flycruiser) is also interested in revising his factory JDM drawer system to something a little newer. Realistically, if you have done all the research and read all the threads on the topics you might as well just buy some wood and dig into it. McMaster Carr has lots of good stuff for those applications.

 

[Glenn-BJ74]

Those drawers can be so bloody heavy you can barely close them when parked on an incline. I use storage boxes firmly strapped down - so I am not hauling 100 lbs of plywood, bolts, screws, glue, hinges, and latches around with me, that is in addition to my regular excessive tonnage..

 

[Fantom]

But the layout serves a secondary purpose, a bed, which allows the storing of all the stuff in the vehicle and sleeping on top, unlike your set up which requires you to remove your gear to be able to sleep in your truck.

 

[Glenn-BJ74]

I like to eat before I sleep so the cargo tonnage comes out and is covered with my roofrack canopy system. If you are on the road and just want to pull over and sleep drawers are an advantage - but that is not often (maybe one night on the way to Utah).
Everyone's requirements are different.

 

[Dangil]

Those drawers can be so bloody heavy you can barely close them when parked on an incline.

Good point about the weight; I wonder if the drawer itself could be made out of 3/8" ply to make it lighter. Hopefully I can make it to Lee Valley later this week and see what they have for slides and latches.

 

[LanceCruiser]

I plan to keep my milk crate system, but I was going to lay them out and use the crates as support too. But I'm still thinking of a way of maybe building a frame near the wheel well hump, and have the board split in the center and hinged at the hump area. It would act like a lid for the crates, and hold them in place so I wont have to use as many, or any tie downs to hold them in place, but still needs more thought. Plus with using the crates as support you could go thinner on the plywood too, since there will be lots of supports underneath per sq/ft. I also bought a 3" firm foam, folding mattress from Army n Navy for $50 last season, but they have another foam mattress from the same company that is a softer foam, but I think a little too soft for camping, and it they had a floral print on them. If they have them again this season, I would buy a second one. Since 2 would fill the space between the humps almost perfectly, might be a little wider, but if they are going to be above the the humps it wont matter. Also they probably could be temporarily fixed to the lids, and stay attached when open, so you wont have to move them out of the way, but you might not have to anyways. The crates I bought new from Thunderbird Plastics in Burnaby. It would be nice if they could make them a little wider. Also, if you have the carpet in the back, the crates will not slide, maybe a thin sheet of Lexan will help them slide if you want them to.

 

[Fantom]

It ends up being very much a personal preference.
The benefit of the shelving system, especially if done right, is that it stays bolted in place to the vehicle. Rubbermaid containers and milk crates (unless properly secured) can become a danger during off camber, or God forbid roll over situations.
Yes the additional weight (depending on what it is made out of) will usually be more than rubbermaid boxes. This is where you have to figure out what will serve your needs better, the security of keeping everything inside, and a spot to sleep on that is sturdy. Both the drawers and the plastic separate cases can be organized easily, the benefit of the boxes is if you are parked in one spot and require to have your gear away from the vehicle you can.
Realistically, what's an extra 50lbs or even 100lbs in an 80 or even 60. A roof rack will cause more fuel consumption due to drag than that weight.

 

[ikeedikeed]

Realistically, what's an extra 50lbs or even 100lbs in an 80 or even 60. A roof rack will cause more fuel consumption due to drag than that weight.

I was surprised how much the boxes weighed when I *finally* got my drawers from Warfield. But I didn't really notice the extra weight once installed.

I have the mesh-floored ARB roof rack and that thing makes so much wind noise with the sunroof open it'll make you deaf. I had the rack off briefly and I swear I could coast a buttload farther than with the rack on. The mesh, I'm sure, creates turbulence like a mofo.

FWIW the Warfield design is pretty good if you ask me, but I think he's stopped taking orders due to backlog and some pretty heated discussion on this board about various aspects of his business (timeliness being just one of them).

 

[Glenn-BJ74]

Since last year have been using two Plano cargo boxes. They fit all my cooking equipment, two stoves, propane bottles, eating implemnts, frying pans, pots, large bowls and non-perisable food. items. They have four snap latches and interlock when stacked. I cinch them down with ratchet straps - they don't move. They have rollers on one end - I looked for many months - nothing better out there for the price. They are not as strong as a Pelican marine foot locker - but they are not $350 each either.

They look like the one below, from Walmart (even in high-priced Canada) for $20 each -

Amazon.com: Plano 1819 XXL Storage Trunk (Camo): Sports & Outdoors​

 

[Dangil]

More often then I'd like, I find myself driving late and setting up camp in the dark. I'm hoping that whatever system I end up with will allow me to do minimal re-arrangement and keep most of my stuff in the truck and end up with enough room for 2 to sleep in the back, and the rear seats have to stay (folded down for sleeping)... realistic right?...Not.

the drawer and raised platform will allow lots of gear to stay put underneath when its bed time, and larger items like the cooler and duffle bags can be put in the front seats.

Time to start building this thing.

 

[psquared]

Bruce built a drawer system for the back of my HDJ81 (we have since taken them out as we needed the third row seating more).

 

[BC40]

Our storage deck/bed is simple, like the right half of your sketch. No drawers, they wouldn't work well for me because I transfer stuff between 2 trucks and sometimes a trailer. We just use plain old rubbermaid totes, tool boxes, and loose gear like stove slide underneath. Double bed futon matress on top. Folds up to keep the front seats for driving. Duffel bags with clothes and sleeping stuff on top, as well as the cooler for easy access for snacks. We still end up unloading most of our junk at every stop to set up camp.

My suggestion, make it low as possible if you want to be semi-comfortable for camping in. I wish my 60 was a high roof so I could sit up in bed. I would not bother with the top access hatches. Not enough space to be sitting on the bed pulling stuff out from underneath. I kept the bed only 4' wide, offset to one side. That opens access to underneath, and an upright water gerry can fits snuggly beside the bed.