Harbor Freight Winches

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

^ Can't u just add some tubing....??


I can't say that looks too good, but I am guessing you wouldn't ever leave it attached, just hook it up if you need it?
 
I agree. It's on a hitch mount so I can move it between vehicles. Function over form and all that. Adding tubing was my first thought too, but then I remembered...I don't weld! Put it on the list of man skills to develop. Really.

I solved the problem by removing the tensioner and rotating the gear housing forward from the factory position.

20150319_094615.webp
20150319_094633.webp
 
Glad you fixed it, but there should have been something available to extend it. (I don't weld either....or solder....lol.)
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1426784385.960836.webp
 
Yes, I checked those out, looked at other hitch winch mounts, considered buying a different bumper and selling this one, looked at other winches and dimensions, even thought about cutting the grill and panel below it, but I only needed about 2 inches and these extensions provided much more. Without spending more money, losing the bumper I like, or modifying my 60 I got a solution. I'm guessing I'm not the only one that will have a problem with the location of the lever on the winch. It sticks up quite a bit. Maybe this will be helpful.

I removed the cable, took off the cross bars, and pulled the gearbox off the driveshaft. There are 10 hex screws holding the housing in place. They are soft, so if you do this be careful not to strip them. I rotated the plate one screw postion and refastened everything, put it back together, and done. It's a 10 minute job if you don't strip anything. Technically you could do it with the cable on, but it adds a lot of weight when you're working with the winch.
 
I made an observation the other day about these winches. I think you could also re clock the motor side by 90 or 180 degrees. When i've done the test fitting to my ARB i've noticed the ground lug on the bottom contacts without spacers and is going to be very close with spacers. Re clocking would put all lugs vertical in an ARB setup. Something to think about. I will not be doing this with mine as I have already gone through and done the waterproofing, don't feel like re doing it now.
 
I made an observation the other day about these winches. I think you could also re clock the motor side by 90 or 180 degrees. When i've done the test fitting to my ARB i've noticed the ground lug on the bottom contacts without spacers and is going to be very close with spacers. Re clocking would put all lugs vertical in an ARB setup. Something to think about. I will not be doing this with mine as I have already gone through and done the waterproofing, don't feel like re doing it now.

Yes, re-clocking is simple, disassemble, (waterproof while you are in their) adjust knob where you want it, and reassemble.
 
Yes, re-clocking is simple, disassemble, (waterproof while you are in their) adjust knob where you want it, and reassemble.

You are speaking of the side with the planetary gear set, I am talking about re clocking the electric motor side of the winch. There are two screws that extend through the case and hold everything together. There are an additional two screw holes in that case 90 degrees offset from each other. So essentially you should be able to re clock both sides of the winch for a feet forward mount.
 
"Waterproof while you are in there"...how? There's a seal between the drum and the plate. What more did you do to waterproof it? You've piqued my interest.
 
"Waterproof while you are in there"...how? There's a seal between the drum and the plate. What more did you do to waterproof it? You've piqued my interest.

That seal is nothing more than a paper gasket w a half dab of waxy coating. Its not keeping out $hit. I tore mine down on both sides, planetarys and motor, removed the paper gaskets and rtv'd everything. I will post some pictures and a writeup as soon as I get some spacers and finish waterproofing the control box.
 
How old is your winch? Mine has a couple of rubber gaskets, no paper gaskets that I saw. Maybe they've upgraded since the price change?
 
How old is your winch? Mine has a couple of rubber gaskets, no paper gaskets that I saw. Maybe they've upgraded since the price change?

Brand new as far as I know. I just bought it last week. There is a rubber seal on the motor side, then a paper gasket towards the planetary side.
 
As pointed out earlier in this thread, mine had quit working for a second time. I tore it apart myself this time and the inside of the motor was all kinds of rusted. As half k cruiser pointed out, those paper gaskets don't work at keeping the water out. My brushes were rusted so badly that they were frozen solid. I used electrical cleaner, a brass brush and a scotchbrite pad and cleaned as much as I could then used half k cruisers method of sealing with RTV. I let it cure and bench tested. It's alive! works again and sounds great. I suggest everyone buying one of these sealing it yourself and don't rely on Harbor Freight's poor attempt. I do a lot of deep water crossings, so maybe I am in the minority, but the process of sealing was easy.
 
That seal is nothing more than a paper gasket w a half dab of waxy coating. Its not keeping out $hit. I tore mine down on both sides, planetarys and motor, removed the paper gaskets and rtv'd everything. I will post some pictures and a writeup as soon as I get some spacers and finish waterproofing the control box.


I also added marine grease. The grease that is in their is some cheap soupy stuff.

Don't get my wrong, I am happy with mine, in fact just bought one for my H1, should have it in this weekend, they work well but you can't expect the best for 299.99.
 
I am switching over to synthetic line.....and the winch I just got from HF has an external brake (I bought the same one 2yrs ago and they didn't have a brake.)

Anyway, should I remove the brake when using synthetic line? Seems like it would create more heat...???
 
I'm trying to determine if there is a difference between the three different Badlands 12k winch SKUs. I know some say there is a difference in rope length, but the manuals all spec 65'.
 
It seems every harbor freight item offers 2 skus, no idea on the difference.

I have bought 2 and the second one I got had a brake, however I think they added to all of them.....not much help, sorry
 
I did this today in the rain across the edge of a dried up pond. Broke the cherry of the Badland 12k. So I turned around and went back at a high rate of speed. More rain came as I winched again using that oak to the right in this pic. Good times.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1439861865.880091.webp
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom