GunRunner Future Mods (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jul 30, 2003
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5,866
Location
Madison, MS
CottonLand,

I am looking for your advice/opinions on the best way to achieve my goals for the GunRunner...

In an effort to continue to wheel with my good friends and not force them to constantly spot me and pull winch cable, there are a number of mods I'd like to complete before the 2016 SCC.

1) 37" BFG KM2s: No. I'm not going SOA. It won't fit in my garage. I may go from +1.5" to 2 or 2.5" shackles if I have room. Extending bump stops is a must. The front tires are already rubbing big time on the front fenders and that needs to end. I have an old damaged set of fenders that could be chopped and only run as inner fenders when on the trail. So the fenders would extend only slightly if at all from the aprons. I may run a 1.5" - 1.75" tube from the bib, along the apron and down to the running boards. What thickness? Another option would be fabbing up some tube fenders. I have some very old school steel 16x8 wagon wheels. What is the best way to verify they are not seriously out of round? Weld on bead locks?

2) Armor to Protect Sheetmetal: I want to run a 1.75" - 2" tube spaced an inch or two out from my current 2 x4" sliders under my running boards. I also plan to fab an upper tub slider that will bolt to brackets welded to the roll cage. Tub slider will begin just behind the door opening and extend as far down the tub as possible and still allow the dual swing-outs to fully open. Replace/enhance rear plastic fenders with tube armor. I need to be able to lay the truck into a tree/rock/embankment without damaging the body.

3) Rear Locker & Diff Protection: I need to install my RuffStuff rear diff cover. I won it 4+ years ago at the Crawl. After MardiKrawl, my rear Aussie locker is popping a LOT more. It popped at least 5 times in a 45 minute drive last Sunday. It rarely, if ever popped before. What's up? How do I fix it while I'm in the process of installing the diff cover?

4) Power Steering: currently Saginaw box and pump with cooler. Turning left is very difficult at times. Steering shaft may be flexing and hanging up on the front shock tower to frame bolts. May need to adjust the angle and weld these on to eliminate the bolts/interference. Any chance my Sag box is bad? Turning 37x12.50s should be no harder than 35x12.50s, right? I think the 16" version is actually a little wider than 13".

I also need to change the angle/curve of my rear cage to frame tie-in tubes. It has been acting as a rear bump stop, but creates forward movement resistance as the tire rubs on it.

Anyone have any 1.75 - 2" tube? I have some from my previous cage. It is 2" but probably HREW, not DOM. It's probably enough to do the extensions down the running board sliders.

My current shocks are all toast and need replacements. Blistein? Both front and rear upper shock mounts need mods/replacement.

Let-R-Rip...
 
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Here's an example of an upper tub slider stolen from MUD.
 
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I kinda like this fender-less look. Maybe I could make my fenders easily removable for on street driving which I still enjoy on weekends.
 
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Bossman and Beno are both correct!

Plan on tub slider is to notch 2x2 square tube and weld to the cage. 1/4" plate to tube extensions to the actual slider for strength. Most impacts will likely be pretty close to 90* to the cage, but it needs to withstand as much as possible and not weigh a s***-ton.
 
Looking forward to the evolution.
Have you seen any pics of 37s and SUA?

Probably can make it work on the front with metal tech fenders but the rear would require some big time trim unless you adjust bump stops. Then you lose valuable articulation in the rear.


How about SOA and beadlocks with 2psi. Can you fit in the garage then?
 
Srob's truck currently have 37" KM2's, SUA...however the apron is trimmed 2" higher the stock.

Tub sliders are no problem. Agree with bossman, definitely use tube.

Changing frame tie ins...it is just a bitch!!...take some time to cut and grind off all the old and fab up new.

jT is the man on shocks and steering assist.
 
Rear springs have been flipped and rear fenders trimmed up to the inner fender. 35s look small in those fenders. 37s should look great and fit well. Lowered bump stops are definitely needed.
 
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I wasn't there to see it, but rumor has it that you got hammered and wheeled that truck like you stole it on the night run during crawl. Maybe you should just buy a few cases of Miller lite and save the money on the mods.

Just f'ing with you, Lash. Looking forward to the next gen gun runner. Let me know what I can help with.
 
That night wheeling run was fun! I wasn't worried about much. But you guys know how much the GunRunner means to me. I just can't beat this truck up. Bending the lower lips of the front fenders and breaking a rear marker light at MardiKrawl is usually no big deal, but it sure hurt me. Body damage must be avoided. So it's time to armor up.
 
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Here's three pics from 1989 of the second owner and big brother, Jace. He painted it with 4 cans of rustoleum and one brush.
 
JRob, I really like your rear tube fenders. What size is that tube?
 
I think he used 1.5". His turned out great but it took a lot of metal work to tie the sheet metal into the tub. So you would have to repaint that area. I'm trying to take my flares off and run a tube in place so I don't have to paint.
 
I hope to make everything bolt on. So using a plate like fast eddy and tying that into the tube could work.

Thanks for all the good info, ideas and pics Todd, JT, JRob, Bossman...

How about the power steering issues?
 
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