GRRRR sound thread #1001

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

cc93cruiser

CRUZAHEAD
Joined
Feb 2, 2004
Threads
292
Messages
2,712
Location
Hayward, Ca.
Yes, I knew there are plenty of threads covering this problem/sound with our cruiser's driveline, but I actually have found the problem on mine. I tore into my front end after repacking and installing new gaskets at only 15k miles ago. I truley believed I was going to find the problem there.. It sounded like I had a bad bearing, or dry spindle bushings etc...
Well, everything checked out, execpt for the birf's inner cages... They were looking a little on the worn side, a lot of chipping and small minor cracks on cage... Lucky for me, I had 97 birf spares that were in excellant condition, and that took care of that problem... After I installed the 97 birfs, repacked the wheel bearings, replaced trunion bearings, and inspected the spindle bushings (compared them to brand new ones I purchased from Toyota-they checked out just fine, almost no wear..), I drove the rig and noticed that the drivetrain slack/play was very minimal..Almost no slack/play at all from drivetrain under acceleration/deceleration. What I did notice was that a slight grr coming from the front end was still there at highway speeds inbetween 60-70mphs..
Knowing that the front end was all fresh and buttoned up, the only other places that the noise could have been coming from was the Differential itself (carrier or pinion bearings), or the Front driveshaft.. I was hoping and praying that the noise was not coming from inside the differential, because that meant I would have to tear the whole front end apart once again and actually take the differential to a differential shop= more money I don't have.... So instead of assuming the problem was in there, I decided to take the front driveshaft and lock the center Diff. and see if the noise was gone.. If the noise was still there, that meant bad news for me-the problem would definitly be in the Diff..
Well, I took the driveshaft off and went on for a 20 min ride on the freeway and wala, the grrr sound was gone....:idea: What a relief! About a month ago, I installed new Toyota U-joints and took the driveshafts apart to clean and grease up the splines... I marked both ends of the front driveshaft with a white crayon, but by the end of the R&R the white crayon was barley visable and I am sure now that I installed the 2 ends off by a tooth/spline or 2... My questions is, should I take the driveshaft to a driveshaft shop and have them check it out....? What exactly would they do? Check for balance-then rebalance, install the 2 ends in perfect order? How much mula should I be expecting to take out of wallet for job?
 
I took my driveshafts and U-joints to a local truck driveline repair shop. They charged me $10 a pop to install the u-joints. This included balancing the shaft, checking the runout, and a quick coat of paint.
 
Wow, that's real cheap...! I don't even need the shop to install the ujoints, I installed new ones myself from Toyota couple months ago... Taking it in tom... Thanks for the reply.
 
Is your front driveshaft has the double cardan joint?
 
I am actually running the stock front driveshaft. I have been running it with all my lifts, first OME heavies, then J's, now Slee 4" for about 6 years.. Never had any problems, vibes, sounds etc.. I have an ARB, and M12000 among other accessories in the front, so it is weighed down quite a bit. I am running slee caster bushings, so not too much correction, therefore, never really worried about installing a double cardon shaft...Like mentioned before, this grr sound started after I dissassembled and then assemebled the shaft while installing new u-joints and R&R the splines in the shaft....
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom