General Upkeep of the GX input... (1 Viewer)

[Archangel]

Been on here for years before purchasing an '06 GX470 back in December. It's got 228k on the odometer. Since mid December, here's the updating/upgrades completed:

Old Man Emu medium duty springs/ Metaltech 4x4 airbag delete
Brakes, rotors, & calipers (460 front brakes, all Callahan parts)
OE replacement Stabilizer links (Moog)
Gas Cap
Air Filter (K&N, and I've read all the bad feedback on it. It'll be replaced next oil change)
Cabin Filter
JBA UCA's

Cardone 66-5235 CV axles (awaiting install this weekend)
Denso 234-4261 O2 sensors (awaiting install this weekend)

Fluids have not been replaced recently (at least according to Lexus service records)

My plans are to replace the Upstream O2 sensors (Denso part number currently escapes me), Spark Plugs, and possibly the hubs (from what i've read, it's just easier to replace the hub with the CV axle). The fluid flush will be another weekend.

What else would you recommend? My current commute in the GX is 40+ miles one way almost daily. So far, my GX has been amazing, and I want to make sure to stay on top of the upkeep rather than let it go.

Here's the most recent pic of my GX for attention... and my 5th gen photobombing...

 

[Mr Chuck Norris]

Transmission, transfer case, and both differentials need fresh fluid if you don't know when they were last done.

Coolant, power steering, and brake fluid could use a flush.

What's the timing belt job history? If there's no record, that's a big priority.

What's wrong with the CVs now? If they're not clicking, replace the grease and boots on the OEM axles with OEM rebuild kits. If they are clicking, replace them with OEM axles. Either way, use OEM parts for the CVs. Aftermarket CVs in Toyotas have a pretty bad track record.

With that suspension and mileage, I imagine your control arm bushings are either shot or on their way out front and rear. Same with tie rod ends and ball joints.

I'm sure I'll think of more or someone else will add to this.

 

[Archangel]

Transmission, transfer case, and both differentials need fresh fluid if you don't know when they were last done.

Coolant, power steering, and brake fluid could use a flush.

What's the timing belt job history? If there's no record, that's a big priority.

What's wrong with the CVs now? If they're not clicking, replace the grease and boots on the OEM axles with OEM rebuild kits. If they are clicking, replace them with OEM axles. Either way, use OEM parts for the CVs. Aftermarket CVs in Toyotas have a pretty bad track record.

With that suspension and mileage, I imagine your control arm bushings are either shot or on their way out front and rear. Same with tie rod ends and ball joints.

I'm sure I'll think of more or someone else will add to this.

Timing belt was done ~40k ago
CV's boots busted and broken. They're clicking, and saw the mixed reviews of OEM vs Aftermarket, and most seem to give a positive on the Cardone CV's. I'll rebuild the OEM ones in there for replacement or the first hint of trouble. UCA's were replaced with JBA's when suspension was upgraded.
What fluids do you use for the trans, t-case, and diffs?

 

[Rednexus]

I recently did all of my transmission/gear fluids.

For the transmission I used Valvoline MaxLife High Mileage fluid. It's around $20 per 4-quart jug at Wal-Mart, and is one of the few fluids that claims to be compatible with the Toyota WS fluid. It was around half the price of the WS fluid and available locally. I used 15 quarts. The GX shifted fine before and shifts fine now. When you do the fluid you should also drain the fluid from the pan, drop the pan, clean out any sludge at the bottom, replace the strainer, and then do the full flush (2 quarts at a time) from the transmission cooler under the hood. This way you get all of the old fluid out. The procedure to check the fluid level is kind of involved as you have to get the transmission to a certain temperature, open the check plug on the bottom, and either fill it until fluid comes out or let excess fluid come out. There is a fill plug on the back of the transmission. The fluid swap also takes 2 people (one to start the engine and run the transmission through the gears and one to watch fluid coming out) and take several hours. I'd recommend reading some more in-depth procedures on this and watching a few YouTube videos before starting.

For the gear fluid I used Lucas 75w90 full synthetic in the diffs and Valvoline 75w90 conventional in the transfer case (I had tried Royal Purple Syncromax, which claimed to be compatible with Toyota LF transfer case oil, but it made the t-case noisy - it's quiet with Valvoline). I'll probably use Mobil1 75w90 synthetic everywhere next time as it's cheaper and readily available.

You'll also need new crush washers for all of the drain plugs (diff and transmission) as part of the fluid swap.

 

[Mr Chuck Norris]

Timing belt was done ~40k ago
CV's boots busted and broken. They're clicking, and saw the mixed reviews of OEM vs Aftermarket, and most seem to give a positive on the Cardone CV's. I'll rebuild the OEM ones in there for replacement or the first hint of trouble. UCA's were replaced with JBA's when suspension was upgraded.
What fluids do you use for the trans, t-case, and diffs?

If the CVs are clicking, they're toast. The joints have worn spots in the races and they won't ever be the same.

For fluids, I'm honestly not that picky. Any name brand that meets the same specification as OEM works. I have OEM in my trans/case/diffs because I wasn't in the mood to DIY them so I paid the dealer. I run Mobil1 synthetic in the engine though I honestly don't notice a difference, except I feel a little better if I push the oil changes out a bit (1yr, 5-6k miles or so).

I'm personally not a fan of any "high mileage" oils though as they all contain seal swellers that compromise the OEM rubber seals.