fuel level sending unit mod

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

euclid

euclid

SILVER Star
10 Year 15 Year 20 Year OG
Joined
May 15, 2002
Threads
328
Messages
6,067
Location
Jackson, MS
Any suggestions on how to modify the sending unit to accomidate a big tank? What I need to know specificaly is what material to use to extend the arm, and how to connect it. My instructions say to solder the joint, and I've read on mud to braze it. I'm not sure I know the difference.

I can solder. What kind of solder should I use? What it the arm of the sending unit made of? Should I use the same material for the extension?

I want to do it right so that the tank can stay in place and working for a loooong time. I'm thinking I'll put a new fuel pump in the new tank and keep the old one as a trail spare.
 
braze is easy to use as well and works best when flux is used. Have you thought about sinking the actual pump deeper inside? Just a thought as I don't have an answer for your original question.
 
I've taking the sending unit out several times. it has a coat hanger size wire that terminates in a little black float that is about the size of a deck of cards. To extend the wire you can just cut it and add a longer piece in the middle. the bronze is used because there is no worry of it reacting with the fuel.
 
euclid said:
Very good info. Thanks. I'm guessing I can buy bronze at the hardware store. Web search on brazing and I'm in biz.

Thanks.
Click to expand...

Brazing is the same as soldering you just use different raw materiels (in general)
 
Diesel and copper have a reaction that produces a slime in the system, but I do not believe that gasoline will do this.

The extension can be welded too. The need to be extra careful about the heat is obvious, but I've done this both with a MIG and (preferably) with a TIG.

One way to possibly do this is to use brake tube. The rod needs to be a decent fit inside the tube for it to work well. If it is a snug fit then cut the tube to over-lap the rod at each end after setting the length, and drill a cross-ways hole or two in each end of the tube. Leave the tube extension in some white vinegar for a couple of days to remove the plating (interferes with the brazing process). Set your length and braze at the ends of the tube and through the holes.
 
Not sure if the same sending unit will be used, but I'd like to design this modification with the idea that I may one day put diesel in it. Steel shoulnd't be a problem in either gas or diesel, should it?
 
euclid said:
Not sure if the same sending unit will be used, but I'd like to design this modification with the idea that I may one day put diesel in it. Steel shoulnd't be a problem in either gas or diesel, should it?
Click to expand...


Neither fuel should react with the steel.
 
Neither fuel will react with steel, but an issue with diesel and steel is the moisture that diesel absorbs causing rust.

I've also read about diesel causing problems with galvanized tanks. I do not know what that story might be, so I'd advise research on the topic. If you were to use any one of the fuel tank liner/sealants (Kreem, U.S. Standard Fuel Tank Sealer, etc.) you may remove the source of the problem. dunno.....
 
S&S1stCruzer said:
Does the extended range tank kit come with the appropriate fuel sending arm/float?
Click to expand...
question is a little vague...which ET...some come with new sending units.. some work properly work with the existing...some niether
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom