fuel cell sealant

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rock scientist..
Staff member
Feb 17, 2002
Las Vegas
I have an Aluminum fuel cell in my 60.

The fuel pressure sender and the fuel pump flange are both barely seeping. Which is letting the inside cab of my 60 smell on hot days.

Anyone have a lead on some self leveling stuff that I can drizzle on the sending unit and the fuel pump flange to seal it up? I know it exists, because I have seen it on race cars. But for soem reason my interweb skills bring the suck right now..

The idea is kind of like the self leveling sealant used on the top of motorhomes, but is fuel safe.
X2 on the PRC, it's good stuff

That PRC stuff seems to be awfully thin. I know it is for airplanes, but does it really work that well when it is only ~ .5mm thick?

I was thinking of something way thicker lol
The type b is freaking awesome, we used that on f-18 for everything. Usually the structural sealant was not available so we used the type b for sealing panels and patches.

inside or outside?
Mace , the red stuff the radiator shops use to line the fuel tanks is self leveling and dries and is fuel safe. Call the local radiator shop and see.
Mace , the red stuff the radiator shops use to line the fuel tanks is self leveling and dries and is fuel safe. Call the local radiator shop and see.

Good call!
inside or outside?
I used it for both, if I made a sheet metal patch, I would seal the mating surface with it and then rivet it on. I also used it to make fit-in-place seals for the removable panels and seal the mating edges on airfoil panels. I usually used the B1/2 but it doesn't look like that is available right now. The engine guys would use it to seal the valves to the fuel cells in the plane. It worked great because the sealant didn't break down when immersed in fuel and hyd fluid. Def military tested and approved. :D
You can find PRC fuel cell sealant in many different flavors & consistencies from A1/8 up to B6 and beyond. For the most part A is runny and can be applied with a brush and B has a much thicker more viscous consistency that doesn't flow out as easily. The number after the letter determines the working time, i.e. 1/8 = 1/8 of an hour or 7.5 minutes, 2 - 2 hours, etc.

As me_tu05 mentioned PRC is great stuff for sealing nearly anything.
I still have not gotten around to doing this.

Is it still agreed that the Kemfast PR1442class B applied in this fashion is best?

I think that would work as well. Most of the ones listed will work in a non pressurized situation. Let me know which one you go with. I want to do the same thing as in the pic. Heres a shot of my gas tank expansion tank. So far so good.
I have a similar tank already. I'm going to increase the tube diameter with the thought that it will allow the fuel to drain back into the tank easier. And I'm going to run a loop to the other side of the fuel tank to create a "uphill" if I flop on my side.

Actually, I could probably put another expansion tank on the drivers side (one on the PS already). And have a fairly large reservoir. Course, that would probably make it nearly impossible to drain the second tank once fuel got into it.

I have this tank right now.
Well, I picked up the Aircraft Spruce sealant linked above and doused the top of my gauge sender and the intank fuel pump manifold.

I also picked up a sheet of 1/8" Viton Gasket Material from Grainger to replace the fuel pump manifold.

Fuel pump is sealed perfectly, sender still has a slight leak. When we initially built the tank, we screwed up on the hole locations for the stock sender. There is only one orientation that the sender can be mounted. We did not drill the tank in the correct spots. So I had to Egg out the mounting holes in the stock sender to line up properly in the tank. Those egg shaped holes let a small amount of fuel out.

What I ended up doing was cutting another gasket with the proper size holes in it and making a steel ring that goes on top of the stock sending unit. Essentially making a cap over the elongated holes. Unfortunately, because the aircraft sealant was a binary mixture that solidifies over time no matter what, I had to find some sort of sealant that was gasoline safe.
I found some Seal-All at the local autozone. Seal-All Adhesive Product Information It is fuel safe and fairly similar to rubber cement. So, I glued all surfaces together (Big Mac style) Tank, gasket, sender, gasket, ring. And liberally doused the parts with this seal all stuff. In the end, Sealed up perfectly! SWEET!!

I also added a line for the vent that runs from the passenger side of the gas tank to the drivers side and then to the bottom of the expansion tank. That should stop it from siphoning around corners. I also added a tip over valve (Fuel Tank Roll-Over Vent Valve - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop) to the top of the expansion tank (outlet on the top of the tank goes to the charcoal canister). Those two things should stop the charcoal canister from filling with gasoline and spilling fuel on my frame.

Whoo hoo lol
BTW, that aircraft stuff took over a week to cure in 100+ deg heat..

Seal-All was a day lathered on stupid thick.
lol, gas cap leaks now :D

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