Front Axle rebuild

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

CruisinGA

CruisinGA

10 Year 15 Year 20 Year
Joined
Mar 27, 2003
Threads
361
Messages
6,461
Location
Georgia Tech
Sorry for yet another front axle thread, this one is my ? thread. I'm starting my front axle rebuild in a few minutes, and I started this thread to ask questions on as I'm sure I'll have many as I go along. I'm gonna take my time, I've got a parts washer, a digicam, and a FSM+Haynes. I feel ready to go. If you've got any suggestions/ideas let em come, I'll check the thread every couple of hours or so.
 
1st problem-
There are no two flat headed screws holding in the brake drum. There are two holes, but are not lined up with any other holes and are not directly across from each other like the FSM shows. Not sure if I should just keep tugging on the brake drum or what. Heres a pic.
 
brake%20drum%20w%20no%20screws.jpg
 
So far so good, I've got the PS completely disassembled and mostly cleaned except for the inner axle seal, you know the PITA seal. How am I supposed to get that sucker out without a seal puller? Both the FSM and the tech pages instructions don't really have an answer.
 
[quote author=CruisinGA link=board=1;threadid=4381;start=msg32796#msg32796 date=1061170897]
So far so good, I've got the PS completely disassembled and mostly cleaned except for the inner axle seal, you know the PITA seal. How am I supposed to get that sucker out without a seal puller? Both the FSM and the tech pages instructions don't really have an answer.
[/quote]

If you are very careful, you can put a srewdriver or a long chisel under the outside edge of the metal part of the seal and tap up and in. DO not score the edge where the seal sits. You will bend the seal up and it will be loose, easy to grab with needle nose pliers and ruined. Of couse, a seal puller ruins the seal too. We are talking about the axle seal and not the wheel seal right?
 
Yes we were talking about the axle seal. I managed to get it last night with a small prybar, gradually working it out side to side, using the metal lip of the seal to work it out, I was careful to not score the surface where it seats. I actually had thought of what you said, but then saw the prybar and that worked great.
2 more questions:
How do I tell if the wheel bearings are good? Mine look fine, they move smoothly, no rust or pitting.
I don't have to split the birfield to pack it with grease right? Because my rebuild kit did not include the snapring that breaks when you split the birf.
 
No need to split the birfield. Just goob it up with clean grease. I would change the wheel bearings just cuz but you do not "need" to unless they show wear or the races are pitted. You do need a new outer oil seal.
 
[quote author=dd113 link=board=1;threadid=4381;start=msg32903#msg32903 date=1061216585]
Just goob it up with clean grease. [/quote]

"goob" is a technical term....seriously....

best tool for "goobing" grease is a 1" rubber spatula, available in any kitchen department. Option B is to surprise the SO with a new set of spatulas, and steal the old ones...hehehe Spatula works great for cleaning grease from inside the knuckle too.
 
One more question, when packing the trunion and wheel bearings do I just try to get as much grease in bearings as I can? I will have tubs of grease so I was thinking I would just drop the bearing in there and just squeeze grease in there. When I grease the hub (yes the real one, not hub "lockouts") do I more or less fill it up with grease like it was when I pulled it? or do I just pack the bearings and thats it?
Thanks for hanging in there with me guys, I'm nearly through.
Gumby-I do have new seals, I'm going to Napa in a few min and if they have the wheel bearings in stock, I will replace, if not, I won;t. (they look fine to my dad and I)
 
Yer best bet is to clean the bearings of all old grease completely, then repack by hand...I use the spatula and keep pressing grease into all the openings until no more goes in. For the trunions, once you have the knuckle installed, I then pack that outer cavity "as full" as I can to keep the trunions lubed as much as possible. IIRC, the "manuals" state 2/3 full. With the birfield installed, since mine is apart so frequently for maintenance, I don't fill much in this cavity. Not positive what the manual says for this area...guessing 2/3 again tho....keeps the brass spindle bushing lubed properly.

For the spindle inner/outer bearings, again grease/pack completely, then I fill in the "hollow" with grease, packing it behind the bearing prior to the inner seal, and the area between the bearings too. My thought is to keep as much water as possible out of that area. (can't get in there if their ain't room....lol)

I've always used a bit of white lithium on the lockout itself...
 
Oops I didn't mean to complete it, I'm not done yet!
I already cleaned all the bearings out really well in my brand spankin new parts washer. This was my excuse to buy one. :0
Ok Back to the garage I go.
 
Ok, I finished this morning at 3 AM. then slept for 3 hours and then went wheelin today to make sure I did it right. :o
Well I think I did cause I've driven around 250 miles in 1/2 a day at 65-70 mph and then spent 2 hours in 4 lo, and everything worked great!
Thanks again guys, preciate all the pointers, advice and info. :)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom